Total Sound Overhaul

Received my order from @james@tech12volts. Per his advice, I’m going to take it step by step. I’m hoping to install the head unit and front camera ASAP. From there I’ll just do one door at a time; getting the sound dampening as I go.

A few of questions as I start my research project:
1) how long should I plan for the HU install?
2) anything tricky I need to know about?
3) is 4 rolls of sound shield enough for just the doors? How far can/should I stretch 4 rolls? Back of cab? Under headliner? I see a lot of people talking about the inner and outer skin. Priority?

Any tips/threads/videos would be super appreciated!

Hoping to do a full unboxing and inventory this weekend.

Summary of my order:

• 1.0 x Phoenix gold hertz package - 1 PG mx 800. 5 2 hertz k170 2 PG mx 10d2 and custom doublecab box sail panels x2 wire kit 4 channel loc and entune harness amp rack speaker brackets front nd rear 2 1. 5 rcas and adaptors
• 1.0 x 4 rolls of soundshield
• 1.0 x JVC 10. 1 KW-Z1000W - with all parts for Tundra
• 1.0 x Kenwood CMOS-740hd camera

 

Can't tell you about the the other stuff, but I order the 4 rolls of sound shield (high quality stuff), using the tap and apply process, inside/skin all 4 doors, and back wall with half a roll left on a crew cab. So should be plenty.

Big fan of the hertz loud speakers now, just super sharp\clean for all instruments in music.

 

Are you installing a maestro along with the head unit? If so, getting that wired up can be a little tricky, just have to follow the wiring directions in the manual.

Getting the power wire into the cab can be a little tricky. you can either go through an existing gromet or up through the floorboard by the footwell.

I would focus on sound deadening the doors first then the rear of the cab where your subs will go.

 

Yep, I do plan to install a maestro. Thanks for the tips! I'll definitely read the manual and watch a few videos if I can find them. Not excited about running any wires. Especially the wire for the front camera. No idea what sort of route that's going to take.

Yeah I'm a little torn on what route to go with deadening. I want to do driver side first because that's the one I'll appreciate the most. But the first one is also probably the one I'm most likely to mess up. I have to find some more posts and videos about the install process.

 

It helps to take the center speaker out when installing the HU and Maestro. You can reach down in there and pull the wires back instead of cramming them in there.

 

For my front camera, i ran it under the gauge cluster, down the side of the footwell, through the gromet on the floor board, along the frame rail, up the wheel well to the front of the truck. wasn't too bad, just used a coat hanger to fish the wire above the frame rail.

Another thing to think about is where you are going to mount your microphone. You can run it in the factory location (in the headliner). its a little bit of a pain to run the wire under the dash, but ends up with a clean install. Here's how i mounted mine:


Here's some info on the maestro wiring

 

Since you are doing components in the front doors, I'd consider disconnecting all 3 dash speakers.
Go ahead and wire the HU to the factory speaker wiring to get sound from them.
But as you get to tuning your system, you might want to disconnect them.

Don't go too heavy on the door sound deadening.
Watch some YouTubes and go from there.
I think I put too much on the inside wall of my doors.
They are very heavy and slam shut with even the lightest touch.
I should have just put the lighter Dynaliner on the inside of the doors.

With the BAM exhaust, I think the rear wall and floor helped quite a bit.
But it was A LOT of work..

 

Hey guys I just received my kit from James as well but I got a question for you. I received 4 rolls as well and plan on wrapping the whole truck if possible but was wondering and I searched the forum before asking has anyone done the Big 3 upgrade on there truck before doing sound upgrade? Or is everyone leaving there wires alone?

 

If you don't mind answering a few questions:
1) Which thickness of Dynaliner did you use and would you go thicker/thinner if doing it again since I noticed they have 1/8, 1/4 and 1/2"
2) How much Dynaliner and Dynamat did you use for the total install?

 

First off, a roller helps.
Doesn't have to be the actual dynamat roller, others are cheaper.
But it helps a lot mounting this stuff.

Noico Metal Barrel Roller Installation Tool for Automotive Sound Deadening Insulation Materials for Cars & Truck (Audio Dampening & Deadener Installation)

Amazon.com: Noico Metal Barrel Roller Installation Tool for Automotive Sound Deadening Insulation Materials for Cars & Truck (Audio Dampening & Deadener Installation): Automotive

I used 2 boxes of the 1/4" liner and I'm happy with it.
I used on the back wall and rear floor on top of the dynamat.

$85 Dynamat Dynaliner 1/4" Lightweight Automotive Thermal Insulator – Heat Dampening Kit for Car Floor, Roof, Underhood & Fiberglass Enclosures – Easy Self-Adhesive Install – 32” x 54” x ½”, 12 sq ft

Amazon.com: Dynamat 11102 Dynaliner 32" x 54" x 1/4" Thick Self-Adhesive Sound Deadener: Automotive

I should have used maybe 1/8 liner on the inside of the doors instead of using so much dynamat.
I think I used 2 boxes of Dynamat..

$240 Dynamat Xtreme Sound Deadening Car Insulation Bulk Pack – Noise Dampening Kit for Floor, Doors, Panels, Hood, Engine or Trunk – Easy Self Adhesive Install – 9 Sheets 18”x32” Each, 36 sq ft total

Amazon.com: Dynamat 10455 18" x 32" x 0.067" Thick Self-Adhesive Sound Deadener with Xtreme Bulk Pack, (Set of 9) , Black: Automotive

Dynamat, or equivalent, is a must for the outside door skin, maybe a little on the inside.
But it gets heavy really quick.
I knew when I was done I over did it.

 

Unboxing album:
https://imgur.com/gallery/kmoedhB

The next piece of my plan is to put all these items into a Google drive sheet to start my planning. For each item I’m going to have a “purpose” field so I can actually understand everything I just purchased.

From there I hope to install the HU and front cam ASAP. Next I’m thinking amp. Then sub & sound deaden the back of the cab and under rear seats a little. Finally I’ll slowly work my way through all the doors.

 

Finally ready to start the first stage. My goal is to make all of the connections to the head unit so I don't have to take it back out, but I may be getting ahead of myself there.

I don't think I received install instructions from @james@tech12volts, but maybe they're in the separately packaged sub box. Either way, I've reached out to him via email and I'm sure he'll respond soon. I hear that he does provide good install instructions.

How hard is the amp swap? I have the non-jbl system with an amplifier from the factory. I'd love to do that while I'm at it. I really don't have a clue how that phase happens. I'm guessing I run speaker wires from the HU to the amp. Then somehow I have to get from the amp to the components in the door. Or since I already have the factory amp, am I just swapping out the connections?

 

"tap and apply" - can't find anything else about this. I'm imagining you're saying you "tap" the metal, and depending on the noise you hear, you "apply".

Mind sharing any more info?

 

@W3agle I think he's referring to the matting or Sound deadening. For the inner part of the door you just want to tap it on lightly and roll it soft. If you press hard enough you will dent the door which would show you a dent. Here's my experience with "SOUND SHIELD" not done yet but 4 rolls isn't going to cut it if you're wrapping inside and out of the door.

 

You need a minimum of 60 SF if you’re doing inner/outer doors on a CM. They’re yugeeee lol.

 

Do you feel like that’s overkill? I see a handful of comments where people say the doors feel too heavy now.
I like the application in this video. Thoughts?

 

@W3agle I honestly don't think it is overkill. My doors close like a luxury car and the inside couldn't be quieter. Best part is its less effort for the doors to close.

 

I'm just doing the inside of the doors on mine (the exterior door panel).

 

I feel the same way. I closed a friends cm door the other day and it felt like a tin can vs the solid thud I’m use to when closing my doors. Plus it significantly reduced road noise.

 

I know- it sounds like a cheap old toolbox or something when I close the doors. Sound deadening was 100% on my list from day one lol. Curious to see how much I’ll be able to cover with my 4 rolls of sound shield… anyone ever do the roof? Lol

 

It’s easy to figure out the SF needed. Length x width plus 10%

 

Well I'm at 4 rolls and it covered only 3 doors inside skin and outer skin. Luckily I found a local vendor that gave me a he'll of a deal on another 4 rolls.

 

I think @Freeezen did his roof IIRC.

 

Can you clarify what you’re calling inside and outside skin?
I notice in these photos the plastic over the door gap is in. If you applied on what I would call the inner skin (inside the cavity), you just have pulled that off. How did you reapply?

 

Outside skin is the exterior panel, the outer painted part of the door.
I see no reason to cover every part of it.
Just lay some big sections in there to solidify the area.

The sticky stuff on that blue plastic stuck back on.
I should have removed it entirely, put a few pieces of dynamat in the big spots, and then covered the entire area with dynaliner.
Kinda like what @J's 4x4 did on his interior/inside skin, but I would have used a lighter dynaliner for the fulll coverage..

 

i did 1 layer of 80 mil on the inside skin of my doors, two 80 mil layers on the outside that the speakers sit on
1 layer of 80 mil on the floors with a layer of 197 mil foam on the areas the feet rest on and another layer of 80 mil everywhere else

sounded like a luxury car and the doors sounded solid when closing them. unfortunately i sold that truck 4 months after I got it so i never got around to doing the roof as well but the next owner will be pleased with how his tundra sounds. this was aon my 21

 

There is a point of diminishing returns on applying the material, after you apply to an area, you tap to hear the resonance to see if another area needs to be controlled. There is a youtube I ran across at one point that displayed this technique. It made a lot of sense compare to covering every square inch and 4 rolls or just short of 40sq ft was more than adequate for the Tundra. Now if you are going for sound proofing that is a whole different animal with multiple types of material.

 

Nope, not me. I can't remember the guy either right now. The guy I'm thinking about took out his entire interior to do the floor and roof.

 

@Freeezen I think you find that guy on this post. Below

https://www.tundras.com/threads/sound-deadening.18311/