How to remove upper control arm from spindle?

Yeah the hammer I had was pretty small. I picked up a 4 lb hammer a little while ago which hopefully does this trick

 

NO:


YES:

 

It appears your ball and shaft have partially separated from your socket.

See what I did there, that's comedy!
Now you go...

 

In all seriousness, it looks like you might be hitting it in the wrong place.
You should be hitting it on the point of the uca and that shock of the hammer blow will release the threaded/tapered shaft.

 

Ill be going from made in USA tools to made in taiwan tools .

 

Can someone draw a picture of what to do? Red Arrows will score bonus Earth Social Credìtz.

 

That DeWalt will do just fine.
Hit that uca on the end with some force, and the stud will pop down and separate from steering knuckle.

Should,pop out!

 

https://knowhow.napaonline.com/know-how-notes-learn-the-different-types-of-ball-joint-tools/

I do a combo of hammer and pickle fork.

 

I haven't read the thread all the way so this may already be suggested, or OP may have already had success with another tool. Here's what I used.

I figured I'd only need to use this very rarely, and so far I have. Ball joint seperator from harbus freight. Have, and not need versus wait for auto parts store to open as third shift.

 

This^^^

Flip the pickle fork, pound it in so it's applying pressure. Then screw the nut on the top of the stud so the nut is just barely above the threads, and hit the nut vertically from the top with the 4lb sledge. In the other photo it looks like you've been beating the ball joint portion horizontally from the side. Side force won't get you anywhere. The force has to be vertical.

 

Side force in the correct place on the uca with bfh and it'll release. I've done dozens of them

Never hit the stud!

 

The stud looks like a really tempting place to hit ngl

 

If It mushrooms or swells up from hitting the stud it will be more work for you.

 

Is everything hanging freely? Jack stands under frame, or front cross member, or both?
If the control arms and everything have pressure on them from supporting the truck, it will fight you

 

I might be dethroned as head mangler.

 

I put my jackstands under the front cross member. Should I support it elsewhere? or is that a good spot to support the truck.

 

The rightful throne shall soon be mines.

 

Hit This:




With this:



And make sure the suspension is at full droop unsupported so the spring is pushing the LCA and spindle down away from the UCA.

 

You ain’t holdin’ yer mouth right

As my grandpappy used to say

 

Exactly, your hired!

 

Yup,good spot as long as it is stable and safe. Go ahead and put one under that frame rail for added protection and follow the instructions that @KNABORES posted and it should separate.

 

Lots of great advice here as usual. Since you're having such a tough time on this one, and I assume you plan on doing both, maybe you should add a little heat to the equation as some here have mentioned. You can buy a Map Gas kit for short money and it might really ease your pain. Heat the area circled while still using the fork and the 4lb. hammer. Good luck and keep us updated.



https://www.homedepot.com/p/Bernzomatic-Trigger-Start-Torch-Kit-TS4000KC/203368730

 

You will be as soon as I change out my steering rack.

 

Yep, that's it! Be sure to use plenty of PB Blaster applied under the castle nut. A couple of smart smacks with the 4 lb should do the job.

 

You can use a ball joint separator kit. Check post #5 here:

https://www.tundras.com/threads/front-wheel-bearing-and-hub-replacement.63508/

 

I am literally sitting here refreshing this page waiting for @potoghi to give us an update...

#Nailbiter...

 

I just picked rented some tools from autozone. It’s coming off today . I also got a pulley puller as a last resort effort.

 

Getter dun Patty Cakes.