What have you done to your 2.5 gen Tundra today?

I went with the Durobumps front and rear. seem to be good so far...

 

Industry secret.

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Ha!
I actually used a construction marker that is meant to write on anything.
I’ll try to snap a pic tomorrow.

it’s held up really well and if ever in need of a touch up, it’s on hand and easy.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Sharpie-PRO-Chisel-Xl-Permanent-Marker/1000515179


The tolerances are so tight I was not too sure about painting them.
The marker was perfect.

 

This is the good stuff.
It applies easily, adheres well and basically will correct itself when making a mistake.

when painting my dash panels I over applied in one area leading to a run.
I thought, surely I will have to wait for it to dry and sand it out.
When I came back 20 minutes later it was gone.

 

Perfect! I neeeeeeeds this.

 

My 3dw window mod came in today... Wasn't expecting it. Guess I'll be putting that in this weekend.

 

Here’s another option, and a vendor on here: https://www.fracv2.com/order/

 

Didn't realize these were two different vendors. Is there a quality difference in the front camera?

 

I just checked the FRAC kit - you need to supply your own with that one. I think between the lower cost on the Anytime kit, including the camera and better switch, I’d go that route. The FRAC kit is really good as well, and well documented on here, but the same can be said about the Anytime kit.

 

Thanks everyone! I bought a can of the

$23 SEM 39143 Trim Black Aerosol - 15 oz.

SEM 39143.

 

Mine is a platinum, TRD only means Toyota Racing Development. Just a phrase. Just do it, oh wait that’s Nike! Lol

 

Thanks for the idea! How’s that holding up so far and did it effect the lighting of the button?

 

At the rear, how high is this roof rack from top of roof? Trying to figure out if a roof rack will fit under the overhang of the AT Habitat.
Ryan

 

Added 30” led light bar

 

What brand you go with? Combo / spot?

 

No...it will look just like mine in my build thread.

 

Also added hood decal

 

Very unique. Toyt.

 

Decided against wheels/lift until these tires run out.. Which gave me a chance to paint these. Couple cans of plasti dip, some glossifier and not bad for $100




Edit: for comparison

 

YONHAN 12V USB Outlet, Quick Charge 3.0 Dual USB Car Charger with LED Voltmeter & ON/Off Switch, Waterproof Aluminum Car Outlet Fast Charger for Car Boat Marine ATV Truck and More - Red

https://www.amazon.com/YONHAN-Upgraded-Version-Charger-Voltmeter/dp/B08RHNLXCS/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=yohan+red+usb+charger&qid=1621694536&sr=8-3

 

Instructions have you drill six 1/2” holes and use plus nuts, but since they provided eight for goofs, I used them all. Three crossmembers with two connections in front, four on the middle and two on back. They give you oversized, 1/8” rubber washers for the slide frame connection point and I also used silicon around the plus nuts before inserting them. I’m such a geek!
Anyway, I had to get over drilling the bed on a new truck, but the OEM bed mounting bolts aren’t on the embossed (raised) runners on the bed where the frame sits anyway.
Thing is rock solid. Love that this slide has slots for the universal E-track system. Already got E-track goodies from Harbor Freight for this! Something about that brushed aluminum on a Silver Sky Tundra. It’s like Mary Poppins: practically perfect on every way!

 

Thanks for the mounting information. Couldn't find anything on their site. I really like the full pull out tray. I would have to get over drilling holes in the bed. Have you given any thought to how you might use the space in front of and behind the wheel wells? Seems like a fixed box of some type might be in order.

 

Has anyone found a solution for replacing the lighter/power ports with USB chargers like this fit in the original opening and use the Toyota connector for the power port without having to enlarge the mounting hole or cut/solder into the OEM power ports wiring? Everything that I see you have to drill out, cut and splice.

 

You can plug them into the factory connector just fine - use a 0.25” blade male crimp connector for the negative and a 0.187” male for the hot.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/caseys-2021-lunar-rock-trd-pro-build.77317/page-2#post-1972759

as for not drilling it out - I haven’t. But I got over that concern pretty quick.

 

Yeah, I am not worried about the drilling itself. Just like the option to return to stock.

 

Contact @Chelly and buy his 3D printed two-hole blank. Keep your factory socket and install a USB.

 

This isn’t a full extension, but honestly, the reach is fine for me versus the cost of a full.
Funny you should mention those front “dead space” areas, this was also a concern of mine early on. They’re already dead space anyway, though, right? I have the additional complication of the Retrax cover box up front too, argh.
I’m going to mock up side trays that I can attach to the sides of the slide that will raise and pull out with the slide. If successful, I’ll post the result here in the future.
If you have technical questions, Norm at warranty@highwayproducts.com has been very responsive and helpful for me.

 

I am actually looking to replace one of the two on the dash console. I know I have seen on here where a you can get a custom blank for that as well.

 

+1

 

Got the truck detailed and added protection to the paint. From where it was to where it is now is night and day. Loving it even more now!