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DIY: Automatic Traction Control Disabler

Discussion in 'General Tundra Discussion' started by TRDFerguson, Apr 30, 2021.

  1. Apr 30, 2021 at 8:46 PM
    #1
    TRDFerguson

    TRDFerguson [OP] SSEM #99/RGBA #8-ish?/It’s a funny name.

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    IMG_1555.jpg

    I've been wanting to do this for a while, and finally had the time to start looking into it a little more. Most on here are already aware of Tow/Haul-ass Mode or Beast Mode or Nanny Override or whatever your preferred nomenclature might be. For those that aren't, the process to activate it is this: Push and hold the VSC button for 3 seconds, release, press and hold again for 3 seconds, release (nannies are now off, including traction control), then press Tow/Haul do get the nifty shift points. Tada! You now gained 50+ HP.

    But in all seriousness, the real benefit is when off-road, having traction control off is necessary, both from a performance and a safety standpoint. The two-3-second press and hold isn't a big deal, but sometimes you turn your truck off and forget to do the process before you take off. There are modules on the market that are already designed to handle this, but 1) they're designed to be always on, meaning you have to toggle the VSC switch to set it to normal, and 2) they're kind of expensive for what they do.

    My goal: have a toggle button to operate the functionality and have a single module to simulate the two button press-and-holds.

    And now that we're done with the online recipe board backstory...

    Parts list:

    Tools needed:
    • Wire strippers
    • Soldering iron (or crimper if using butt-splice or similar connectors)
    • 10mm socket (we're working on a Toyota after-all...)
    • Plastic panel tools
    • Multimeter or test light
    • 12 volt power source (for programming and bench testing)

    Programming the timer (full doc):

    The timer needs to be configured for what we want to do - in this case, provide 2 pulses that each last approximately 3-4 seconds. The instructions for the module I used aren't the clearest, but the Free Form function is the easiest (though the worst documented)
    upload_2021-4-30_20-26-36.jpg

    Here's the basic schematic. For the bench test, the red wire needs to go to the 12v+ and black to 12v- or ground. The yellow will go to the + probe on your multimeter or test light and the negative probe will get grounded with the timer.
    upload_2021-4-30_20-27-50.jpg

    The general programming workflow (for reference):
    upload_2021-4-30_20-31-24.jpg

    Specific steps for our application:
    1. Have the green and white wires grounded before supplying power to the timer to enter programming mode.
    2. Set the timing by grounding just the white wire in the pattern of the button presses:
      1. Long touch, 4+ seconds
      2. 1 second pause
      3. Long touch, 4+ seconds
      4. Done
    3. Ground the green and white wires together to complete the timing pattern setting
    4. Touch and remove the white wire to ground 18 times to set the timer function to #18, then touch the green wire to ground once to set the trigger mode to "none"
    5. Ground the green and white wires together to complete the timer function setting
    6. Touch the white wire to ground to set output mode to instant
    7. Ground the green and white wires together to complete the output mode setting
    8. Touch the white wire to to ground set output type to normal
    9. Ground the green and white wires together to complete the output type setting
    10. Touch the white wire to ground to set timing programming mode to normal (duration)
    11. Ground the green and white wires together to complete the timing programming mode setting
    12. Touch the green wire to ground to set low power mode to disabled
    13. Remove power from the timer
    Now when you apply power (without the green or white grounded) you should see the red light on the timer and voltage on the multimeter correspond to the pattern we set in step 2. If not, reset and try again (reset by grounding green and white and power cycling 5 times - module will flash when reset)

    Video of the initial programming validation:
    https://youtu.be/8moMcKB4Shw

    Once I got in to the dash to test the switch pinouts, I found that the VSC button operates by grounding a 12 volt signal from the VSC source, not by sending a 12 volt signal TO the module... so I added in a relay to the mix. Updated schematic:
    upload_2021-5-4_12-13-13.jpg

    The switch, timer, and 2 relay posts can all share a single grounding point. I added the relay after soldering the rest of the harness, so I just did them separately. The blue x's denote the tap locations for the illumination (red/orange next to black on switch and pink/white on VSC) and signal (30 pin on relay and blue/purple on VSC) wires.

    Completed harness:
    IMG_1545.jpg

    VSC tapped wires:
    IMG_1556.jpg

    There is a good ground point below and to the left of the brake controller, and you can pull power from the red wire leading to the cigarette lighter below the climate controls. I ended up using an add-a-fuse at the interior fuse panel and the ground point in the drivers side kick panel.
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Apr 5, 2023
    Cthulhu, willy, mtucker and 32 others like this.
  2. May 1, 2021 at 5:19 AM
    #2
    BrakeDust

    BrakeDust New Member

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    I love it OP! I've always wanted to build this myself - my 2008 Tundra was so bad with the nannies that I went through the 2x 3s button press routine every single time I got into that truck. This was necessary since without it I couldn't even enter a freeway ramp at a decent speed without my TC kicking and slow me to a crawl. The truck was crippled with the factory settings, I ran in this 'nuke' mode all the time. (Note: even with the nannies disabled this way, they _will_ still be invoked under the most extreme conditions, IMO this mode would not make the truck unsafe.) My 2021 has behaved quite well so I haven't been pushing the button but I do appreciate nuke mode.

    That switch you picked, is it the kind that stays ON after you push it once? So next time you start the vehicle you could still be in nuke mode? (ie. then the relay would automatically do the button pushes for you.) This would be most convenient, just set it and forget it. Then I could still disable if desired.

    I hope you get it working. Looks like you're on the right track.
     
    TRDFerguson[OP] likes this.
  3. May 1, 2021 at 6:06 AM
    #3
    TRDFerguson

    TRDFerguson [OP] SSEM #99/RGBA #8-ish?/It’s a funny name.

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    Yep, it’s a toggle so you can just turn it on and leave it and it’ll do its thing every time you start the truck. I’m hoping to get this installed soon and document the functionality here.
     
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  4. May 1, 2021 at 6:26 AM
    #4
    Lemoyne40

    Lemoyne40 New Member

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  5. May 3, 2021 at 3:28 PM
    #5
    TRDFerguson

    TRDFerguson [OP] SSEM #99/RGBA #8-ish?/It’s a funny name.

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    I’m happy to report I’ve got this up and running, though it was not quite the way I had expected. The VSC button/circuit works by grounding a signal from the controller, so my plan of providing a 12 volt pulse wasn’t gonna cut it.

    I added in a relay module (RL44 universal 12 volt relay from Autozone) that used the output from the timer module as a trigger, which allowed me to ground the VSC signal. The relay is definitely overkill for this application, so my 2.0 iteration will look a little different. Here’s a video of the setup in action - I’m hoping to update the OP with a revised parts list, more detailed steps, and some wiring diagrams.

    https://youtu.be/MsyBF9y0D88
     
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  6. May 3, 2021 at 5:19 PM
    #6
    TRDFerguson

    TRDFerguson [OP] SSEM #99/RGBA #8-ish?/It’s a funny name.

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    Pic of the completed harness:
    ED782583-FEC3-4B79-A3C7-DD6DF51514E5.jpg
    Green from the switch connects to an add-a-fuse that I plugged into an empty slot in the cabin fuse panel.
    Bare orange/red from switch connects to illumination wire tapped at the VSC switch.
    White from the relay connects to the signal line tapped at the VSC switch.
    I ended up with two ground connections but would redo that to a single one next time.

    Illumination tap
    1EBD5AAB-E473-4CE9-B244-E0C85E05C097.jpg

    I apparently didn’t grab a good pic of the tap for the VSC signal, but it’s the top one looking at the connector in the above pic, would be to the right if you were looking at the connector from the clip side.
     
  7. May 3, 2021 at 5:26 PM
    #7
    GAknight

    GAknight New Member

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    This is awesome, and right up my DIY alley! Sub button smashed!
     
  8. May 3, 2021 at 5:39 PM
    #8
    TRDFerguson

    TRDFerguson [OP] SSEM #99/RGBA #8-ish?/It’s a funny name.

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    Thanks man! Let me know if you need any more info. I’ll try to get this post updated someday as I know I skipped some stuff here and there.
     
    Dr Doobie and GAknight[QUOTED] like this.
  9. May 3, 2021 at 8:02 PM
    #9
    BrakeDust

    BrakeDust New Member

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    Nice work! I'll be doing this mod for sure once you have the updated parts list & writeup.

    This is long overdue. The Tundra nannies were horrible in the early years and they're still somewhat sensitive. They should be turned off for any spirited driving.
     
    Last edited: May 4, 2021
    TRDFerguson[OP] likes this.
  10. May 3, 2021 at 8:08 PM
    #10
    TRDFerguson

    TRDFerguson [OP] SSEM #99/RGBA #8-ish?/It’s a funny name.

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    Thanks guys. It was very satisfying to see it work as intended, especially after several misses on the wire taps, a blown fuse and some sparks here and there.
     
  11. May 3, 2021 at 8:58 PM
    #11
    GAknight

    GAknight New Member

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    Too many…scratch that…not done yet.
    :rofl::rofl::rofl:

    Seriously...thanks for sharing the work man!!!
     
  12. May 3, 2021 at 9:06 PM
    #12
    BiggHertz

    BiggHertz DZTLIMO

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    :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

    Great Work!
     
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  13. May 3, 2021 at 9:14 PM
    #13
    Dr Doobie

    Dr Doobie Growing member

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    Man, Bad a$$!!! Awesome work!:bowdown:
    When can we buy the plug-n-play version from you?
     
  14. May 4, 2021 at 12:30 PM
    #14
    TRDFerguson

    TRDFerguson [OP] SSEM #99/RGBA #8-ish?/It’s a funny name.

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    Updated the original post with the new diagram and additional photos, along with some formatting changes and parts/tools list corrections.
     
    Dr Doobie likes this.
  15. May 4, 2021 at 12:44 PM
    #15
    TRDFerguson

    TRDFerguson [OP] SSEM #99/RGBA #8-ish?/It’s a funny name.

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    I think if I can source the parts for cheap enough I'll throw a few together and see how they sell. I'm usually busy as hell with my own side projects and keeping our 5 year old entertained, so I don't really know WHEN this might happen... but I'll be sure to throw it out there when I do :thumbsup:
     
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  16. May 4, 2021 at 1:02 PM
    #16
    Dr Doobie

    Dr Doobie Growing member

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    I bet there's a lot of members that would purchase one pre-made if you build and offered them, myself included!
    I'm busy 7 days a week and don't have time to diy right now.
    And there are some folks that find wiring difficult and frustrating.
    If they could,( just for example) crimp "wire A" to "green with black stripe" that would be awesome!
     
  17. May 4, 2021 at 2:11 PM
    #17
    Hightide

    Hightide SSEM #88 - 3MW - ASCM #2 RGBA#Q

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    5 year old?

    That’s assembly line age.
    Put that kid to work.
     
  18. May 4, 2021 at 2:14 PM
    #18
    TRDFerguson

    TRDFerguson [OP] SSEM #99/RGBA #8-ish?/It’s a funny name.

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    While I agree... the quality control could be an issue, lol. Plus he's already burned his hand on a soldering iron once so probably has some PTSD there.
     
  19. May 4, 2021 at 2:15 PM
    #19
    Hightide

    Hightide SSEM #88 - 3MW - ASCM #2 RGBA#Q

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    :rofl:

    Simply, on the job training.
     
  20. May 5, 2021 at 7:07 AM
    #20
    BrakeDust

    BrakeDust New Member

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    Parts ordered, except I got a different custom switch.

    Will likely move all my other switches around at the same time:
    - Relocate the back window control to where Tow/Haul is now
    - Move tow/haul one slot to the left
    - Put 'beast mode' switch in the far left above the brake controller
     
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  21. May 5, 2021 at 2:45 PM
    #21
    TRDFerguson

    TRDFerguson [OP] SSEM #99/RGBA #8-ish?/It’s a funny name.

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    After a couple days, I can definitively say I'm happy with this mod. I throw on Tow/Haul-ass mode all the time now that it only needs one more quick button press, and my son and I are both happy with the perceived performance gain - the kid is actually going to get me in trouble since he wants me to floor it from every red light now...
     
  22. May 6, 2021 at 12:17 AM
    #22
    Challenger1

    Challenger1 Gramping

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    Pretty cool diy! I’d love to purchase a plug and play kit if you decide to make them
     
  23. May 6, 2021 at 1:14 AM
    #23
    Dr Doobie

    Dr Doobie Growing member

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    Hey mister:quickdraw: no cutting in line, I was here first! LMAO JK!:rofl:
     
  24. May 6, 2021 at 12:00 PM
    #24
    TRDFerguson

    TRDFerguson [OP] SSEM #99/RGBA #8-ish?/It’s a funny name.

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    Lol, there's a vendor on here that currently offers another version of this - you'd just need to add the switch to his setup. I'm hoping to have something figured out in the next couple of weeks, if I have time.
     
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  25. May 6, 2021 at 12:00 PM
    #25
    Punisher29073

    Punisher29073 New Member

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    I, too, would be interested in this.

    Ryan
     
  26. May 10, 2021 at 6:06 PM
    #26
    AT x AT

    AT x AT Trooper Transport

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    Mods, what mods?
    Dude, nice write-up. I'm going to try and mod it to my current setup though.

    I have a switch panel in place already for my lights. If I am reading your schematic correctly, I will need to add an in-line relay and just tap in to the VSC signal. Before I get ahead of myself, I'm going to order parts and will PM you about my attempt to cobble this stuff together.
     
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  27. May 10, 2021 at 6:22 PM
    #27
    TRDFerguson

    TRDFerguson [OP] SSEM #99/RGBA #8-ish?/It’s a funny name.

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    That’s definitely doable, I think you’d just need to run a wire back into the cab, right? Did you end up deciding on a switch controller?
     
  28. May 11, 2021 at 5:26 PM
    #28
    AT x AT

    AT x AT Trooper Transport

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    Mods, what mods?
    Sure did, picked up the https://www.amazon.com/Voswitch-Programmable-Switch-Control-System/dp/B07VZYG6Z2 and spent 7 hours installing it. That included removing the old toggle switch for the grill lights; running wiring from the switch box to the cabin; cutting up two relay harnesses for my lights, soldering and shrink wrapping them back together and connected them to the switch box; wire management after connecting and testing the lights via the switch panel; fabricating a mounting plate out of kydex to go inside the overhead sunglasses holder.

    Anyways, I got the parts in from Amazon...I'll message you to go over my mod to your wiring diagram later this week.
     
  29. May 19, 2021 at 9:29 AM
    #29
    BrakeDust

    BrakeDust New Member

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    TRDFerguson[OP] likes this.
  30. May 19, 2021 at 9:58 AM
    #30
    TRDFerguson

    TRDFerguson [OP] SSEM #99/RGBA #8-ish?/It’s a funny name.

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    Great find! That explains why the programming was such a PITA, and why I had to redo it a few times, lol. I'll work to update the OP later today.
     
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