What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Wouldnt mind having this view on my commute to work. One of these days im getting out of so cal. So tired of traffic and people everywhere with nothing but buildings and strip malls to look at.

 

I won't say I don't drink as I had a White Claw on 11/11/20 and a tall draft on 9/7/20. The last drink/beer prior to that was August 2019. I find the longer I go between beers, the less I like it. And I don't care if it is a microbrew, mini brew or maxi brew or PBR...they all pretty much have the same bitter taste when you are not use to them. As for the White Claw, it was during a golf best ball tournament. I had a drink ticket...it was either that or a Shiner. I have thought for a while now that the reason more and more beers come on the market is because somebody comes up with a "cool" name for which they need to make a beer, not because someone has come up with a better beer for which they need a name.

 

Ready to leave Portland without a doubt but I dont regret leaving San Diego thats for sure.

 

I remember driving through Bowling Green Ky, Owensboro Ky, Clarksville TN, and the guitar town.

My main thoughts was "where's the trees? I gotta get outta here."

Town life ain't for me.

 

https://youtu.be/bD-S2GsgNVI

Had to go to town today. Saw this. I explain in video.

 

Agreed

 

Rotated my wheels today since it’s been awhile. It also seems like I may need to do some replacements soon

the good thing is that I just got on summer break from college so there’s a lot more work that can now be accomplished

 

Yep those lower shock bearings are shot. Get some new strut top bearings and shocks for replacement.

 

Still haven't been able to drive with my rebuilt engine, I'm not sure what's wrong with it.

It starts up, but then the RPMs decline, and the whole engine runs rough, like it's going to stall out. Oil pressure is a little high when this happens and it doesn't sound real good. It threw a check engine light, a bunch of codes as cylinders 5, 4, 2, and 1 were misfiring, and had a P0100 (mass air flow related). So I replaced the spark plugs, MAF sensor, and have new coils coming. That's my technique is just throw money at it instead of knowing enough to know what's wrong. And now after clearing the codes with cheap Harbus Freight scanner, I can't get the ECU to throw any new codes, and the motor still sounds bad.

1) What is going on
2) Could the crank position or camshaft position sensors be bad, despite being fine before the rebuild?
3) How long does it take to break in rebuilt heads? The machine shop mentioned it would run a little rough at first, but I don't think this is what they meant.
4) How long does it take for oil to circulate through the entire engine after not running for 6 months? Assembly lube was used.
5) If the timing was off, I'm pretty sure I'd know by now right?

I will double-check fluids tomorrow (I'd be really shocked if sketchy shop drained a bunch of oil, but not surprised) and try those sensors. Will just return them if that doesn't work, they're pricey. I'm really running out of options though because so many pieces are already new. While I don't expect anyone to know the exact answer given so many variables, hopefully someone wiser can point me in the right direction.

 

Is the timing correct? Good gas? All o2 sensors connected with no broken wires? I'm just running through a few things that have gotten me in the past.

 

This sucks to hear. Hopefully it’s something simple you overlooked. Got a buddy to check over your work in case you keep missing the same thing by chance?
I’m sure @empty_lord could tell if it’s assembled correctly just with 1 or 2 pictures lol.

 

pop the timing covers up top, rotate the engine to 0 and check where the cams are to be sure. but if you were off enough for a misfire youd hear some dreaded tapping from valves.

when the heads were rebuilt, did you give them the cams too? were the valve adjustments checked? if you had a valve job and didnt have them check valve lash you may be running tight valves , AKA open all the time and damaging them as its running.

 

I mounted my chase lights. I also shortened my rack crossbars and moved them farther fore and aft which pretty much eliminated the whistling noise I was getting. Now I just need to wire them up for Sunday's off-road trip.

 

Pass Side Header Install Complete yesterday. Driver Side upcoming today with hopeful timely success.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/the...t-‘build’-a-chronological-story.46816/page-11

 

Lots of pics! We like pics. Like, a lot.

 

Trying, but this Job is Intense! Only break yesterday was for Lunch and my windows delivery.


700 various extensions and 400 wobbles/reducers bits etc scattered about.

 

We’re you able to use a torque wrench, or did you just use German torque method?
I felt like all the extensions and wobbles I wasn’t getting a true reading anyways with all the flex

 

I used a Torque on about half of the Nuts that allowed on the Manifold. The others were Güdntite using the Flex Head 6 Point Ratcheting Box 14mm.

1) Finger Snugged.

2) Torqued from inside out.

3) Retorqued again and got another 1/16 to 1/8th extra turn on the second round. Exhausting.

 

At least your making.......headway!

 

Thanks man, I hope it's simple too. I don't have a ton of friends who know mechanic stuff but another set of eyes would help for sure.

Thanks for the response. I did in fact give the cams to the shop too, and they did all new valves as well as adjusting the lash, etc. They were pretty thorough. I wonder what it would sound like if the valves were being damaged, I can peek at the timing, though like you mentioned, on an interference motor you'd probably know.

 

I’ve heard the dreaded tapping of valves on pistons. It sounds like a higher pitched knock. Check for intake leaks, all the wires attached well (especially the small grounds on the. Engine) etc

 

that gasket between the MC and booster doesnt matter does it?

 

Do you mean the paper one? I think it is just there to prevent the parts from sticking. I cut a new one out of paper gasket material but it could just as well be made from any thin cardboard stock (thought about cutting the box from a 12 pack).

I didn't see it as something that holds pressure or prevents leaks when I replaced my cylinder.

 

@Sirfive if it's really concerning you, I think this is the part # I ordered when I did mine. 47275-12020. It was only $2-3.

Pro tip, when you get it mounted back on the booster, use the brake pedal to bleed it a few more times before you hook up the hard lines. Another member did this and said he got more air out. I wish I had. Just don't push it too far.

 

I had a car once with a V6 where the PO swapped the 1&3 spark plug wires. So the wire with the 1 on it went from the #3 spot on the distributor to the #3 cylinder. When I was putting it back together I didn't notice that so put the #1 wire on the #1 cylinder. That gave me misfires in 1 & 3. Swapping the wires fixed it. Did you double check your coils wired up for the correct cylinders? 5/4 & 2/1 could be swapped.

 

Yay, my first post to this thread! Had the bed Line-Xed a couple weeks ago then installed the Undercover myself earlier this week. I found out the front of the pickup bed (by the cab) was slightly bowed, I had only modest success in trying to straighten it out. I only paid $450 for the Line-X (just raised the price to $525). I was surprised at how cheap. Such a project in So. Cal. would have been $300+ more.

It would have been nice to get a Diamondback but for me it was hard to justify spending another $1k and I have had good experiences with the Undercover.

I bought the recovery tracks because I almost got stuck in the sand at a local lake...

 

Finally tackling hell.

 

Tundra transported some special cargo today. A gift to friend/coworker.

 

Slowly, it will have a complete clean interior... but for now, it has carpet for the first time in its life

 

Holy sheet your $4.15 at the pump! Where Im at in Colo were about $2.99. Lights on the rack look cool too