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Quick Question About Washing/Waxing at Home!

Discussion in 'Detailing' started by ZackRP, May 11, 2021.

  1. May 11, 2021 at 7:38 PM
    #1
    ZackRP

    ZackRP [OP] New Member

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    Hey guys, long time no see! Since it's finally getting nice outside where I live I'm about to give my Tundra a thorough cleaning inside and out. I wanted to have it professionally buffed and ceramic coated or waxed as I don't have any experience with doing that myself, but the costs of having it done locally have stopped me. So onto my first question, do wash and wax soaps work well for providing protection without waxing traditionally? If so, which ones would you recommend? If not, what would you guys recommend for waxing or ceramic coating it myself at home? I know there's plenty of you who are old pros at this stuff and I need some advice! Thank you for any input!
     
  2. May 11, 2021 at 8:16 PM
    #2
    SouthWestGA

    SouthWestGA New Member

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    Armor All has some very surprising positive reviews for their ceramic car wash via YouTube

    that’s about all i know on the subject
     
  3. May 11, 2021 at 8:37 PM
    #3
    shackleford rusty

    shackleford rusty New Member

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    TEXAS!
    check out the detailing forum.

    it's a rabbit hole... consider yourself warned...

    discovered this section last month; spent over 1k on products after repeated visits. smooth, slick, perfect paint can become addictive.
     
    Rocko9999 and 81 TOY like this.
  4. May 11, 2021 at 8:47 PM
    #4
    Tundra234

    Tundra234 New Member

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    Alot of them
    A proper ceramic coat would be done by a shop and would require a paint correction since it is a 2016. If not doing ceramic, normal paint protection would still require wax.
     
    WILLINH and Oey12 like this.
  5. May 11, 2021 at 8:49 PM
    #5
    OnespeedTRD

    OnespeedTRD New Member

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    275/70r18 Cooper AT3 XLT on SCS Ray 10s, Eibach Coilovers, DD 12" Exhaust, AJT Blackout Kit, Truxedo Pro X15, paint match/chrome delete.
    Griot's 3-in-1 is all you need for the paint, great stuff! And some Adam's VRT for the black plastics and tires.
     
    Highsierraguy and Toytonka like this.
  6. May 11, 2021 at 8:49 PM
    #6
    wsutundra

    wsutundra 2021 Smoked Mesquite 1794

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    8EA63EFE-B9CD-48CA-B9FA-7BFC48402803.jpg E2FB47E9-882C-4D4F-AE97-3B1BDE817E04.jpg Just washed and waxed mine today. It’s first waxing! My routine is rinse the vehicle, 2 bucket wash with meguiars ultimate wash and wax.

    dry off with a good drying towel. Scrub Meguiars non acid wheel and tire cleaner. Rinse and dry.

    polish if you have to. I usually only polish 2x a year or so. Or if there’s some micro scratches or a larger scratch.

    dry the door jambs. Then wax with meguiars wax. I have a few of theirs. Used the tech wax today. Sometimes I’ll use the synthetic sealant 2.0. Wipe off.

    Then move to the inside. I really like 303 UV protectant for the plastics. Then a meguiars leather cleaner and conditioner.

    then the windows with stoners or rain x.

    then hit the tires with meguiars wet tire shine.

    meguiars is the best consumer product. I buy in gallon+ jugs and rarely buy the product now. Also waxing, I only do once a month or so. If you wax once every few months that’s ok too.
     
    NumberOfTheDay and TunBrun like this.
  7. May 11, 2021 at 8:56 PM
    #7
    JLS in WA

    JLS in WA New Member

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    I wax mine every other year, whether it needs it or not.
     
    tttrdpro likes this.
  8. May 11, 2021 at 11:28 PM
    #8
    Toytonka

    Toytonka New Member

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    Another vote for Griots 3 in 1.
    Check out the YouTube torture tests.
    Easy to apply and lasts months. Some report a year
     
  9. May 12, 2021 at 12:53 AM
    #9
    astro-jason

    astro-jason New Member

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    Adams H20 Guard and Gloss and VRT for tires and plastic.

    -Jason
     
  10. May 12, 2021 at 9:14 AM
    #10
    vl184009

    vl184009 Cheers Boys!

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    Ok, question? I bought some griots 3-1 just because. FYI, I have a 2016 and it has never been waxed, always garage and I wash when it needs it. Can I just wash the truck and use this, or does it require all kinds of special prep. I am not gonna clay bar, do a paint correction, etc, etc.
     
  11. May 12, 2021 at 10:43 AM
    #11
    OnespeedTRD

    OnespeedTRD New Member

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    Depends on where you live and what sort of contaminants may be stuck to the paint.
    Wash and dry, and then run your hand over the hood and see if its smooth (or do the sandwich bag test).
    If its clean, then go to town with the Griot's. Even if its not, and you don't want to clay it, you can still wash it really well and use the Griot's, something is better than nothing. Just know those little tiny pieces of whatever will still be stuck to the paint under the wax.
    You usually only have to clay the horizontal surfaces, hood, roof, etc, with maybe a light claying everywhere else. If its not too bad you can clay a truck in about an hour. Not the funnest job but the results are usually worth it.

    MGMs look amazing with smooth glossy coated paint!
     
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  12. May 12, 2021 at 10:49 AM
    #12
    TTU19

    TTU19 Wreck 'Em

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    :monocle: Following...
     
  13. May 12, 2021 at 11:44 AM
    #13
    Dan_Gleesac14

    Dan_Gleesac14 New Member

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    Check out Chemical Guys! I haven't really had a single product from them that didn't work as described. Just be aware, it seems some of their products have gotten redundant. I've always been a quick detailer kinda guy in between washes, but nowadays, Im seeing all kinds of soapless sprays and what not.
     
    panicman likes this.
  14. May 12, 2021 at 12:32 PM
    #14
    Coastboater

    Coastboater New Member

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    You can get the basic things you need to get going inexpensively -
    A grit guard or two for the bottoms of your wash buckets
    A high quality lambs wool washing mitt for paint only
    A long handle brush for engine compartment
    A regular synthetic mitt for wheels/tires
    Borderless towels
    You should choose a shampoo that's compatible with the wax you use, I.e., don't use a wash that strips your wax, unintentionally.
    Consider a synthetic sealer prior to waxing. Usually, the sealers will last far longer than waxes, but don't provide quite the shine waxes do, though most sealers can have wax applied over them.
    Learn the do's and dont's
     
  15. May 12, 2021 at 12:52 PM
    #15
    HBTundra

    HBTundra New Member

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    Another vote for Griot's 3 in 1 . . . wash your truck very well, then clay it in the cool shade. Spray/Wipe-on, buff-off w/ 3 in 1 & new microfiber towels. Apply 2nd coat the following day. A very little goes a long way. Easy Peasy. I did my truck back in November, (2006 DC in Blue Steel Metallic) came out insane, and water still beads like crazy, and it's super easy to wash.
    Griot's came out with a 'Ceramic Speed Shine' which I use just a few light sprays of when drying my truck after a wash. VERY impressed . . . . it adds a light maintenance slickness to the 3 in 1 . . . great combo.
    I'm sure a 'true' ceramic coating would be even better . . . and I was 'reluctant' of the 'Ceramic Spray Wax' being a gimmick, I can assure you it's not. I bet some of the other brands mentioned are just as good if not better. Good Luck.

    EDIT: I forgot to mention, some people/ experts mention using a 'decontaminant' after you clay to remove any of the liquid lubricant you used during the clay process, giving a totally clean surface for the ceramic wax to adhere to. Not sure of the exact product recommended (I've heard some using a type of alcohol). I did NOT do a 'decon' and just used 3 in 1 after the clay process. I guess the results may have been even better, but like I said, I'm extremely happy, and it was minimal in cost.
     
    Last edited: May 12, 2021
    GWill likes this.
  16. May 12, 2021 at 1:03 PM
    #16
    Oey12

    Oey12 New Member

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    I would vote for sending it to a professional. Let them do proper corrections and apply the ceramic coating. At first I was questioning whether the cost was worth it... But now that I have it, I am 100% certain it was worth the money. It’s incredible how easy it is to maintain and everything literally wipes off with minimal effort. My truck sits outside 24/7. It shines like I just waxed/polished after nothing more than a simple wash with a quality product. I use the rinse less CarPro ECH2O with distilled water. It usually take about a 1/2 gallon to wash the truck.
     
  17. May 12, 2021 at 1:24 PM
    #17
    djhase

    djhase member

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    Meguiers ultimate wash and wax is the best soap I've found to wash my vehicle. No streaks or spots when air drying. I won't touch my paint with a towel.
     
  18. May 12, 2021 at 1:26 PM
    #18
    wsutundra

    wsutundra 2021 Smoked Mesquite 1794

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    Yes I agree air drying leads to less micro scratches. I try and use really good and clean drying towels and hardly notice drying scratches. It’s the best soap though and smells really good.
     
  19. May 12, 2021 at 3:50 PM
    #19
    panicman

    panicman Everyone remain calm.

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    I’ll throw in my process, which I have found to be successful. But do go here:

    https://www.tundras.com/forums/detailing.66/

    Wash:

    I use Optimal No Rinse, and the 2-bucket method. ONR is a polymeric, non-abrasive, non-toxic cleaner that is diluted in water. It’s not expensive. It smells nice.

    (polymeric cleaners do their thing by having microscopic polymers in a suspension that have an affinity for the dirt on our trucks. The tiny polymers grab the dirt and hold it in a clump of polymeric particles, where it can just roll off the vehicle in the water suspension.)

    I wash my truck in the garage to avoid any chance of water spots. If it has collected mud, thick grime, etc... I spray it off with a high pressure hose nozzle. Bucket 1 is solution. Bucket 2 is rinse water. Both buckets have a grit guard.
    A clean string mitt is soaked in B1, and passed in a straight line over the panel, in the same direction air would flow. Turn the mitt over and do a second pass. Then rinse, shake, and scuff the mitt in B2. Re-soak in B1, and repeat until the truck is clean. I normally do the whole roof and back window, then use a thick drying towel to dry all surfaces, AGAIN, only passing the dry towel over the painted surfaces in a straight line that mimics the passage of air over the truck. Then I do the hood, then each side, and finally the back, drying after each stage. It takes me about 15 minutes to do the whole truck.

    There is no scrubbing. If something must be scrubbed, save it for last and use a fingernail, chemical, or soaking to remove the problem area.

    Once the truck is washed and dried, I use CG spray wax (the banana stuff), or I use Meguires Tech wax.

    When the truck was brand new, I washed it and applied Klasse sealant. I believe much of it is still on the truck because of how gently I wash. Water still beads up and there are really no swirls or scratches in my paint. My goal this summer is to clay bar and re apply.

    Before I wash the body, I wash the the wheels and tires in the driveway with running water, 2 scrub brushes, and CG Diablo wheel/tire cleaner. One brush is a coarse long fiber for the tires. The other is a kind of rat tail of soft plastic that I use for the wheels if they are visibly grimy. After the tires dry, I use a Griots matte tire dressing that just makes the tires look new, not real shiny.

    I use aerospace 303 on exterior plastic. I use aerosol household glass cleaner on the windows.

    I normally wipe the windshield blades clean with alcohol after the glass is clean.

    All soft materials I use are laundered after each use, and I store them in a covered bin.

    Just make sure your approach doesn’t cause more issues than the dirt you are removing. Swirl marks happen fast. I say forget “wax on, wax off” circular motion, do straight lines, and your work is easier and the result is safer and nicer.

    Also, check out Autogeek for reviews, instructionals, and products.
     
    HBTundra likes this.
  20. May 13, 2021 at 8:50 AM
    #20
    vl184009

    vl184009 Cheers Boys!

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    Thank you for the reply, I seriously need to put some effort into my paint. To me it looks and feels fine after I wash it and wipe it down w/Lucas Oil Slick Mist, but after this many years, I know it needs much more.
     
  21. May 17, 2021 at 4:30 PM
    #21
    ZackRP

    ZackRP [OP] New Member

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    IMG_20210517_172550.jpg Well yesterday I washed, detailed, and ended up waxing with Meguiars Hybrid Ceramic Wax. And today it's been raining all day, because of course it is. The base coat for the Meguiars seems to be repelling water well and I'm looking forward to applying more each time I wash. Obligatory picture of the truck taken 5 minutes ago included.
     
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  22. May 17, 2021 at 7:29 PM
    #22
    Pudge

    Pudge Super Secret Elite Member #7

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    So you're asking if you should do some prep but then say you won't be doing the proper prep?
    Yes you should at the very least clay the truck , ideally every year. With a clay mitt it takes under an hour.
    You could just use 3 in 1 after a wash but a smoother, cleaner surface will help it bond better, look much better, and last longer.
     
    HBTundra likes this.
  23. May 17, 2021 at 7:34 PM
    #23
    Roborob70

    Roborob70 New Member

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    Use the cellophane wrapper from a pack of smokes, better than a sandwich bag, that will tell you how shitty your paint is.
     

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