Help please. Issue fixed. So I thought.

So I have a 2013 Gx460 with front and rear arb lockers. The front diff was leaking from the fitting that attaches to the diff.(pic number 1). It looks like they put like one wrap of Teflon tape and it was brown when I looked at it.(pic number 2) When I removed it there was no tape on the threads. Just on the end of the fitting. Can I use red lock right on the fitting or will the heat from the diff not allow it to become permanent? I ask that cause red lock tight can be heated up with a torch for a second and you can now remove a “permanent” bolt. Or do I have to use Teflon tape to seal this? Also. I have no idea if it was leaking from there or from where the diff and drive shaft meet. I only say that cause diff fluid was everywhere. After I cleaned everything nothing was leaking. The diff is supposed to have 1.48 quarts and when I drained it, there was only 1 quart left in there. This is the third fluid change since the gears were put in. What do you think about the Teflon vs red lock tight? Also what do you think about the color of the fluid. I tried to engage the locker and it was leaking air from the fitting. I tightened the nut up and it stopped leaking and compressor stopped engaging. Can the fluid leak from the loose fitting? Thanks in advance.

 

Watched a video on locker install. They say to use transmission pan sealer on the fitting. Makes sense to me. Now the only question is, can the fluid leak from the loose fitting. This is what I found on my driveway and skid plates.

 

Can't really see it in the first pic, but it appears to have a copper washer. If so, the seal should come from the washer, not a thread sealant. I would replace the washer and inspect/ clean up the sealing surface. Lubricate with a thin film of system fluid and torque to spec. If you're trying to seal straight threads you're fighting an uphill battle.

 

The copper washer is from the drain plug. The picture is what was sealed with Teflon tape and wasn’t tightened enough. It somehow got loose. I used transmission pan sealant on the threads and tightened them enough so that they shouldn’t come loose again. Gonna wait the 16 hours before I fill the diff back up so the sealant gets all the time it needs to cure. The instructions are very weird. Put it together in 15 minutes but allow 30-60 minutes before driving and will fully cure in 16 hours.

 

Gotcha. Once I looked at the pictures on a computer, not a phone, I can see the difference.
Good luck.

 

Thanks. I fixed the issue. Really disappointed in the shop who did the install. Luckily I didn’t blow my gears. Still have to clean the rest of the undercarriage. Fluid went freaking everywhere.

 

Sounds like my prom night.

 

Man, talk about a perfect setup.

 

So turns out that I fixed one issue, but apparently there is another issue. The seal on the front differential where the drive shaft attaches to is leaking as well on top of the loose locker fitting. Not sure what that’s called. But it seems like every time I have any shop, Reputable or not, touch any of my vehicles. They tend to fuck it up and I end up having to fix it myself cause when I have them “fix” the problem they create another. I don’t even know why I bother giving any shop my money. Literally every shop that I ever bring my vehicle to. I swear the saying that if you want something done right, you do it yourself, makes so much sense. Nobody cares more than you about your things. Sorry for venting. It’s just frustrating that these shops charge an arm and a leg to get something installed just to do it half assed. Best part is when you hit them up about it they act like it’s something you did. Sure wasn’t leaking until after they touched it. Now I need to know what the seal is called so I can order that and any other part I may need while replacing the seal. Any idea? Thanks.