So You Want To Do Your Manifolds DO You?

Nice. This is my Plan A.

Since I have Mad Hand Skills, a switch may not be necessary but if it is it will be like Kung Fu Fightin’!

 

@Wes_heppy

Can you post a pic of the wrench set up you used for the bolts/nuts behind the Motor Mounts? Thank you.

 

Would appreciate this as well.
I'm slowly getting the courage to tackle this job. PHM, you going with oem locking manifold bolts/nuts?

 

Yes. Ordering tomorrow.

1) 16 Toyota Stud/bolts

2) 16 Toyota Locking Nuts for Studs.

3) 6 additional Nuts for Collector Flange Bolts. I’ll plan on using the 6 Provided JBA Collector Bolts and hope the 6 Toyota Locking Nuts will fit. Reason is the Toy Nuts won’t need re-torque ever.

4) Remflex Manifold Gaskets and a DIY Sheet for Collector Custom Making. Will use JBA ones as template. Will order straight with Remflex which is Higher Dolla. (Summit messed my order up this morning upon email confirmation which they did on another order last year).

 

Copy that, I'll keep an eye on your build thread.

 

I just had an idea dropped by God in my Brain.

Its Ground Breaking like all my other stuff, but need more Mojo Hand Time with it before being absolutely sure it will work. Been in Full Monk Mode this evening. May need another 2 Days in Meditation...

 

I will respect this process.

But on the inside I'm like

 

This might make people feel better if they’re afraid of studs breaking... these came out with no heat, just turbo sockets, extensions and impact (yes it’s not a 4.7. Just showing the risk of studs breaking.. low. I’ve never had the issue)

 

Your term Turbo Socket: Is this the same as an Extractor Socket? I purchased two sets of Extractor Sockets for this Job.

 

SK turbo sockets. Yea they’re extractors basically.

 

Autozoned for the Percy/Taylor Cable Gasket and Bigurrrl for the DIY Sheet for the Collector Gaskets. Tried going ‘direct’ through each Company but they either redirect to Dealers or their website sucks and won’t let you buy even with a cart.

Anyways, was going to be about $110 ‘direct’ but got the shtuff below for about $66. Need to pick up at Autozoned tomorrow.

 

16 Toy Bolt/Studs and 22 Locking Nuts order through Stealer Programme ($110). Woooooo!!!

 

Sweet!
PN 17159 for the studs?
PN 90179-10070 for the nuts?

 

Creates ultimate seal!

 

Getting into Ric Flair Territory on cost.

 

Yeah. The Remflex looks good too, but wanted the Percy/Taylor as first choice as its ‘dead blow’ Aluminum which matches up to the Heads metallurgy and its ‘reusable’.

Reason for Remflex use at the Collector is Percy only makes a Universal which doesn’t fill the template voids near the flange perimeter. The Remflex will fill that void with a Custom Cut.

 

Good to know, thanks.

 

@Professional Hand Model at the collector you will no longer use the donuts. Don't go with Percy's at the collector, I made that mistake twice. Percy's are great at the head/primaries but for whatever reason they simply melted at the collector.

The first set I tried melted in 2 weeks. I warranty replaced them and the second pair lasted about as long. I ordered a pair of remflex but while waiting for them to ship I threw in the strange carbon paper looking jba gaskets, they never leaked a bit and are still there today. Considering that was around 2009 or so, I would say the jba collector gaskets are not as bad as people say, but I wouldn't dare to use their gasket at the head.

If you do disassemble the y pipe, there is one donut gasket there which you will need to replace. I can't recall if there was space to remove and install the header with the cats/rest of exhaust in place. On my truck I just pulled it all off, didn't take long.

 

Thanks for this. The Mojo was Guiding me in the Proper Way. I feel good about this. If the Remflex don’t work, I’ll slip the JBA on the Collectors.

 

Remflex will be your best bet at the collectors. I have not heard of a single failure with them.

 

I'm curious if you will be able to get a torque wrench to fit in there. Good to know either way.

 

I bought a few 30” and 36” extentions in 1/2” and 3/8” so I should be able to make it happen.

 

Don't over do the torque. Those studs will tighten up with the heat, so no need to do "good and tight". Follow the torque specs and you'll be fine.
I used extensions when I did mine, and even a crows foot on a couple of the upper nuts, but it all worked out.
You have the new engine mounts? And are you swapping the trans mount as well?

 

Good advice. I’m not replacing mounts. Doing it the A1 Auto Video Way with a Hybrid of 04Tundra Technique Plus a never before seen move (if it works). It will be mind blowing if successful.

Remflex Gaskets came today. They suggest a lower Torque than Spec at 20ftlbs. vs. 33ftlbs per Toyota Chart for Manifold. Since I’m only using Remflex at Collectors (46ftlbs per Toy Spec) I’m guessing 30ftlbs is the goal.

 

Snapped a few shots of the Manifold Bolts the other day to see what I may be in for. This is Bank 1 Cylinder 5&7. The rest look similar.

 

Shoot those things with some Kroil or PB Blaster and let 'em sit for a while. More than likely the nut will just turn the stud right out of the block. That was my experience.

Swapping out the headers will be a memory that you'll carry with you for the rest of your life...

 

Per 04Tundra (OP) advice: He said he shprayed his, but Reccos not to do shpray so that the Nut will grab the Stud and both come out together.

Maybe I can use my small applicator bottle tip with PB and get in behind/between the flanges/head without shpraying the Nuts?

Whats the game plan if the Nut comes off the Stud? Use Vice Grips to remove/twist off Stud?