What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Washed it and hit it with a spray on wax from Griots. That made it harder to dry but when the sun came out it was worth the effort.

Drove it out of town and on the way home saw a black f150 struggling to catch up on the freeway, it was a pretty decent grade. He must have that turbo V6 because it sounded really funny, more like a Honda motor.

 

I drilled. Im not sure if the member at https://www.tundratalk.net/threads/...or-02-tundra.239938/#lg=thread-239938&slide=1 did. It wasnt a perfect fit so I put it on the tailgate with some bricks in the sun for about 4 hours to help mold it around the tailgate. Im sure you could use a heat gun to speed things up. I dont have the original cap so I do have a gap between the inside of the tailgate and some holes on top are exposed so keep your original cap on.

 

Busy busy day. I pulled my ABS code and it was for the pass rear speed sensor. Pulled it out and sensor was clean, wiped it off anyway. The cover was off the connector so I think it's possible some dust must of got in there and caused the code. Put the cover back on and checked the rest of the wire, then cleared the code. Drove around and got ABS to kick in a few times but the light hasn't come back on, we'll see if that was it.

I picked up a used KO2 for $25 off a TW dude to put on that wheel I got. No plugs and okay tread.



Next I finished converted the rest of my gauge cluster lights to LED. I even did the PRND2LOD bulbs. I originally tried some amber ones a few months back, but they didn't work. These white ones do but meh. I ran out of bulbs but ordered more to do the floorboard one. I find it interesting that while my truck is not VSC equipped, it has the bulbs and stuff there.


Did some stabby stabby on the coin tray mount to delete the green, also installed an amber LED inside there.





I added two Ram balls in the interior for phone/accessories mount. I might add one more elsewhere but we'll see.







After that, I pushed out this ignition powered outlet that powers my FM bluetooth thingy to and hid it, then put an always-hot outlet in its place.





I broke down and got a stubby antenna too. Works with that bluetooth thingy.



After that I took apart my driver's door to inspect the latch that's been getting progressively worse. I spent some time fiddling with it but I think I may have to just get a new one. Door is still apart so gonna go redneck bungee-cording around.






I dropped my skid plate to figure out a solution to the hole I sheared through. I think these washers will do the job.





I took an anvil and hammer and tried to hit out the dents the best I could. Then I lightly sanded it and added two coats of rattle can. Like new.



Lastly I started working on my rear LEDs. Kind of a mickey mouse set up but if it works? I drilled a second hole and used u-nuts and cotter pins to tighten them down once the tail light housings were pushed in. Still need to run the wiring back, but the switch is already in the cab.

 

I never knew there was a light in the ash tray

 

we have ash trays? I forgot about that...and the other cup holders

 

Honestly I forgot about it since it has been out for years, same with the floorboard. I only found and replaced it because its connected to that power outlet and I was fiddling with it.

 

Wonder if mine has been out since I got the truck now lol

 

Take out the ash tray and there's two screws you can remove to drop the part in my picture. The light comes on with the headlights.

 

I had the same issue with my driver door. I had to give it an extra push to get it closed because the the door latch was broken. I found a new one from a sequoia online about $160 vs the tundra one for $250

 

I had my Professional detailer friend do a Color correction, 1 step polish, polish the windows and ceramic coated the whole truck plus rims rims.

took him 6 hours but it looks like fresh paint, paint is smooth to the touch and protected.

 

How much something like that cost? Im relatively close to you.

 

Just finished my pass fnt and chose to go new instead of removing the 2 larger rivets to fiddle with latch pieces. Figured that's one thing grandsons won't have to worry about later in life.

 

PHM Tip: For Midnight Map Reading, remove Ashtray and the light that shines is perfect for reading in the dark.

 

Yeah, I think this is one of those things I'll be happy if I go with the brand new buttery smooth action. This is for a Sequoia, is this the part number as yours @jerryallday?

 

If you choose to go with lock assembly w/motor, this is the one for our 2004 DC from McGeorge Toyota online....69030-0C021

2001-2011 Toyota Door Lock Actuator Motor 69030-0C021 | Toyota Parts (mcgeorgetoyota.com)

You could give McGeorge a call, they were very helpful and I believe 69120-06010 $107 is without motor for left Fnt....been a few weeks since I talked to them and can't remember.

1999-2007 Toyota Lock Actuator 69120-06010 | Toyota Parts (mcgeorgetoyota.com)

 

Trying to buy this lot on the western brow of Lookout Mountain (in Ga) for my retirement home and am meeting the guy doing the soil survey. Where the trees stop is the brow. Thought the truck looked good sitting up here...



Here’s a pic without the overcast -


Wish me luck guys!

 

Nice location. Good luck.

 

Man, just a few more miles across the border and you can avoid income tax. Maybe that won't matter in retirement though? That spot looks lovely though. I would love living there.

 

Lookout Mountain in TN is PHM money!!

 

I wish. Nice property and hope you get it.

 

I paid $550 for everything my paint was bad. He did not do my roof, I am getting it wrapped because the clear coat is gone. The reason I did the wheel.

anyone interested can see the process on his Instagram story. Should be up for a few more hours

https://instagram.com/stories/mezik/2564827061584962046?igshid=tvdjpcz10kk

 

Yes, that is the one I bought. Purchased mine on Amazon. I read the reviews and ppl said it worked on 2006 double cab driver door.

I just haven’t installed. The tundra part number was more than double.

$110 Genuine Toyota 69304-0C010 Door Lock Sub-Assembly

Genuine Toyota 69304-0C010 Door...

 

Thank you very much. The product image is helpful and everything looks the same. My actuator motor should carry over. Might call stealer and confirm. Closest Toyota Parts Programme pickup is $150 + 1.5hr of time/ gas; can have it shipped to my door for ̶$̶1̶2̶5̶ $131.

 

Was this griots 3 in 1 ?

 

No, just the regular version. I saw the 3 in 1 ceramic but didn't want to pay the extra $8. I might go for that next time around.

 

I forgot to mention I used your recco on the HF Shammy Towel. Bought it last year for around $7 for the large. Works great!

 

I keep trying to think of something useful to do with those spaces...I'd love to pull both and mount something in their place. Just not sure what or how.

 

too small for bodies....hmmm......

 

I headed up to a friend's place in Flagstaff (a tad cooler than the Phoenix valley) for a few days of wrenching and sawing and drilling and stuff:

1) Replaced the PCV valve. Found a thread on here that mentioned it, discovered a) it's supposed to be replaced fairly regularly and mine has never been replaced (133K miles) and b) it costs $12 and takes maybe 10 minutes to replace.

2) Oil change. Drained the oil, replaced the filter, went to pour from 5qt jug, thought "hold up...0w20, that ain't right"... I had been shopping with the wife, must have gotten distracted and grabbed the wrong jug. Discovered after I drained the engine... fortunately friend had a vehicle I could borrow to run to town for the right stuff.

3) Greased the polyurethane bushings on the sway bar. Not sure how I feel about those over rubber. Anyhow, found some Silicone with PTFE on Amazon (surprisingly hard to find elsewhere?!) and greased it all up. The squeak I've been chasing for months is still there. Argh.

4) Cleaned the MAF sensor. Quick, easy, makes a difference.

5) Rebuilt part of the access cab storage system I've been working on:

Version 1.0 was super ghetto, just random scraps of wood bolted together, and covered with a cheap green (!) fleece blanket from Goodwill that I didn't bother to adhere or anything. Very flimsy, ugly and a lot of wasted space from wooden corner braces, too-long bolts, etc. It worked for me, but annoyed me every time I looked at it.



Version 2.0: ran a 2x3 runner bolted to the top where the child seat (?) hooks are, beveled for the 15 degree (?) angle of the sheet metal there. Then properly carpeted a piece of plywood and screwed it to that runner, and bolted it to the lower seat mount holes. The rest of the shelf is held together with heavy metal brackets, and this time I ground the bolts down for maximum clearance.





Overall much sturdier and neater.

Also started working on re-doing my shelving on the driver's side with t-slot aluminum extrusion, but that didn't get done, so pics later.

 

Maybe it's not the sway bar then?

What brand bushings? If not energy suspension black (graphite impregnated, so self lubricating) I'd get those (and use the energy suspension grease) or switch back to OEM rubber to see if it'll solve it.