What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Brake hoses went on fine, MC was building pressure before i did the fronts. Now MC isnt moving anything.

 

I haven't heard of vis torque paint. An old shop guy turned me on to using White-Out to mark splines, eccentrics, and misc stuff a long time ago. It also sticks forever. I didn't even think of marking the spacer nuts for peace of mind. Next rotation I'm gonna tag em.

 

Did you use a 2x4 block under the pedal while bleeding? This keeps the pedal from squishing to the floor and Mangling your MC.

 

Ive just hand pumped it, and i read that earlier, so i havent pushed it to the floor yet. It did this to me last time i bled the fronts. Took lots of pumping, then all of a sudden it started building pressure. Ive been pumping, no fluid movement whatsoever, and no wet joints. Last time id say it took 15ish pumps before building pressure, and im in the 30’s now... prolly MC, unless i should remove the abs fuse? Or another trick im not privvy to.

 

Not sure what else to say.

 

I have an OEM Chrome one (fits 1st Gen) that was removed from the 2006 OEM Muffler I bought last year. That Muffler was used for about 1000 miles and removed in lieu of an after market exhaust. The Muffler was put in storage for 15 years until I bought it.

It came with a Toyota Chrome Tip and is in good condition. The seller had some Aluminum Tape on it for storage which hasn’t been removed. I never used it, as I like the look without any tip. I’ll put it on the For Sale Page for $35 to keep it legit. The Aluminum Tape is still on there which needs cleaning. I bet this thing would shine right up like new or could be ‘Blued’ with some chemical.

 

Try gravity bleeding it to get the bulk of the air out. Make sure the MC is full and crack the bleeders open until you see some fluid, then close the bleeders and bleed again the normal way.

 

Its not gravity bleeding. No fluid movement. Gonna try pushing some fluid into the bleeders.

 

If it worked fine before the hose swap maybe there's an obstruction or defect in the new hoses? Easy enough to swap the old one's back on to see if they flow fluid.

 

Maybe some gunkies are stuck in the bleeders

 

Always a possibility. Might need some PHM approved Golden Bosch Supremo Fluid to act as a brake fluid "Dràno"

 

Changed the oil, greased and drained and filled the radiator. Just hit 170,000 miles. Averaging about 5,000 miles a year.

 

If there was a clog down wind, the mc should still build pressure.

https://youtu.be/p8aulstjbV8

 

Just ordered a new set of splash liners for the front fender wells from Yota Liners: https://www.yotaliners.com/?gclid=C...nxppWHcZRjV9NURMOlPlr_zA6Mu71y8BoCbE4QAvD_BwE
Under $100 for the full set and come with new clips. Made in Colorado too... I like that.

 

This is still so good. If any of you haven’t seen this,..... click, enjoy, thank Sirfive

 

Update for those following on the ATS HD leaf spring installation info...
@rock climber @onesojourner @Professional Hand Model @CodyP @2006 Tundra AC

Yesterday I was able to tow for the first time with the new springs and rear Addco anti-sway bar. My tongue weight was about 700lbs because of the way my trailer weight was distributed, I don't often tow with that much tongue weight and will try to avoid doing so in the future. The max tongue weight for my first gen is 500lbs using the frame mounted hitch so I was over by about 200lbs. My new set up handled great even though with that much weight the frame stopper way laying on my Timbrens. This also happened with the previous stock leaf springs but the truck was now level vs being squatted in the rear.

I just went out to retorque the spring u-bolts and each one took 1/8-1/4 turn to get it back to 98ft lbs. I also remeasured the rear center hub to fender height and it has settled a 1/4" on each side. My previous measurements after installation were 23 1/4" on each side without having driven it. Now that I've hauled some weight and towed the measurements are at 23" even to the bottom of the fender. I do not have any fender flares so I'm not sure if those who have fender flares will have different measurements.

 

Really appreciate this. We are renting a TT next month for memorial weekend and I’d like to get a set of these installed. I emailed ATS but haven’t heard anything back from them.

 

Give 'em a call on Monday if you don't get an email reply. They're very helpful/knowledgeable on the phone.

 

Nice feedback. Those flares on mine (and your lack of flares) are another nuance to these measurements, but it seems my flares are tight up on the body so its probably about the same as without.

Are you keeping those Timbrens? The reading I did on them made it sound like some didn’t like the fact that the frame bounced off of them due to their height. Mostly it was Taco whiners as the Timbren was right up on the frame, but it seems our trucks have a larger gap before coming into play.

I’m looking for a new rear spring bump stop about the same height (or ever so slightly taller) as the OEM, but with a larger footprint. Some guys buy the Timbrens and cut them in half, but at Ric Flair pricing not going that route and cutting.

 

How much bigger is it compared to the stock tip? The guy who did my exhaust, made it so the tip is alot closer to the bed.

 

Looks like it will be too close. Close in this case is not worth the risk to buy it.

 

So far I don't see a reason to remove the Timbrens so they'll stay put unless I encounter a problem. I like that they're sort of an added measure against excessive rear squatting when I need it. Regular daily driving or light/medium duty cargo loads you wont even notice they're there. I haven't yet encountered a situation that they're bouncing off the frame stops. Yesterday, having excessive tongue weight had the frame stops laying on them and there was no bouncing, noise or issue that I could detect. I could see the Taco crowd, or any other similar application, not being happy with the constant bouncing off the frame stop in an off-road situation where the axle is articulating much more so than I would ever encounter as a daily driver/occasional utility user.

If you'd like to experiment with attaching/modifying your own bump stop to the stockers I'd be happy to send my old one's your way for the price of shipping. I'm even amenable to shipping to a PO box, nearby Island or distant cousin to protect your location/identity. Or signing a NDA.



Edit: added photo of Timbren for comparison.



2nd edit to add Timbren gif

 

Nice, I’ve been searching for someone who makes them for our trucks, I’ve got ones on the 4runner but they don’t make them for much else. Is the material nice and thick? Stinks like hell?
Are they the same size exactly as the old ones? When I pulled mine for header install I saved them to make templates to make my own, the material for all 4 would be under 40$

 

This is another option: https://www.arksplashguards.com/product/tundra-sequoia

I emailed them awhile back before they had them on the website and they sent me this picture of their prototype. I think they did a group buy for the 2nd/3rd gens or Tacos?

 

Nioce, I like the one piece design

I’m pretty sure those cats are local to me and I mentioned to them about 1st gen tundras and got a “we will look into that”

 

Cool. Did these use existing holes, or did you have to drill new ones?

 

Ordered up some tweeters to replace the old. Hope these will be better than the Originals which I did a specialized sound test on today and seem really distant/low noise.

 

Yeah, I really the one piece too. I'm interested if they're more effective at keeping dust out of the engine bay than OEM. Looks like they're in Phoenix. It's cool to see our trucks getting this sort of product.

I think so? I don't have this product yet but I'm very tempted to do it. If a GB is arranged I would definitely try them. My OEMs are pretty bad and missing a few rivets.

I should clarify, they sent me a picture from their prototype.

 

Check this page and perhaps build your own? Stocker is 2 7/8" tall and the Timbren is about 5" tall including brackets for reference.

https://www.suspension.com/universal-bump-stops.asp

 

You'll want to talk yo somebody at tuff country. I believe a guy tried running spc upper arms with tuff country and learned they are not compatible.

It could be clocking the coil, but even if clocked to avoid this it will slap the coil when you lift the truck. If you can ne careful driving over bumps and dips you're probably okay. Those spindles completely change the geometry so comparing to others doesn't tell you anything.