DEFLATED !!!

Spent 10 hrs yesterday installing pop-a-lock and auto-open tailgate mods in my 18’ DC

Programmed TR-7 as directed- had TR-7 & bosh style relay along with one actuator wired to battery on bench and made sure everything worked before installing in tundra-minus of course the key-fob in circuit

Starting at passenger kick panel Took my time running 1/2” wire loom thru floor plug with 4- wires in it and zip tied to main harness down frame and made up disconnects so I could remove tailgate if needed - if I thought more ahead I would have purchased a 4- prong plug for one single connector- but this is what I had on hand and will work


Ended up running actuator “push-rods” under gate braces for less restricted movement .


Took another members suggestion and used metal bracket installed onto lock actuator sandwiched between factory arms on lock section

Used a smaller 1/4” loom to run wires from gate to under truck -drilling 5/16” hole in each camera loom pass-thru and taped everything up tight

Could not get factory wire brackets closed with both looms in-it so I used a zip tie to keep it closed and secure


Now comes to the DEFLATION/ ISSUES !!
Cab wiring- went all wrong -
suggested you-tube video
Red/ gray - white / silver -were backwards in my truck - just switched wire connectors to lock actuator inside gate to fix issue

Could not find a constant HOT - line in kick panel as others have stated on their 18’ - Ran 12-gauge thru firewall and around to battery- not really what I wanted but it works

Got the TR-7/ relay and in-line 15amp fuse all wired up in kick panel and proceeded to test with key-fob- this is when I found out the lock and unlock wires were reversed- lock actuator was backwards and gate handle actuators were not working with
“Unlock “ button but was working with 3- push- lock button- ARRRRRR !!!
Switched TR-7 “green/trigger”wire to correct unlock wire - got ready to crack open my celebratory much needed BEER and was DEFLATED when now the latch actuators are doing
nothing !! Started to check / test wiring with test light and found no power pulse from incoming or outgoing side of relay- somehow I shorted out relay?? Or it is just bad out of box- don’t know - I bought 4- pack so have more to try/switch out - but at that point it’s 10:30pm and I was DONE !!

Hoping new relay is the fix but with my luck I’m not optimistic

SORRY. For the LONG rant - just VENTING !!

Thought maybe my photos and issues might help someone else
Lord knows I NEED IT !!

 

Which part # pop n lock kit are you using?

 

Put my own “kit” together using parts bought from Amazon as directed thru the
Auto open tailgate thread that’s been on here forever

 

The wires having reverse polarity is fairly common; several installation videos recommend testing before installing.

 

Yes I understand that -it’s a easy fix to switch wires - my lock actuator works fine now with key fob and door buttons

But is that going to hurt relay or TR-7 ??
Handle actuators do nothing now

 

I don't know. I only have the Pop n' Lock. I'm not familiar with the handle actuator but I would guess probably not. I would imagine there is a sequence where the lock actuator much precede the handle actuator.

 

Yes you are correct- the “TR-7”is set to trigger the handle/rod actuators with 3- pushes of key fob unlock button- behind the 2- pushes that operate the lock actuator

I’ll figure it out - hopefully it’s a relay issue which I already have extra