Performance LCA??

My Lower control arm bushings are bad and most say to replace the whole lca. So that got me thinking about a performance lca with a stronger lbj mount, better bushings, stronger, better ground clearance, and possibly more travel due to shock mount location. (And they look cool) I could not find anything for the first gen tundras specifically. But there are some for the 1st gen Tacoma made, specifically these ones. https://solomotorsports.com/cart/ . I did some digging and apparently the 1st gen Tacoma and 1st gen tundra lower control arms are interchangeable and exactly the same, telling me those would work. Anybody tried that before?

 

Not a lot to be gained for the cost, if they work. Ive never seen a lower arm fail on these trucks unless it was rusted.

There are poly bushings you can buy for fairly cheap. If I understand correctly you have to burn the rubber out of your existing bushings and press the poly bushings into your old sleeves (bushing sleeves). I think the company making them is whiteline performance or something like that.

Genuine Toyota bushings are very expensive. I'm not 100% sure that new genuine Toyota arms come with bushings, they aren't cheap either. Decent aftermarket arms can be had around $200 with bushings installed already. Either way you go, you may also need to replace the alignment cam kit, if yours are still good then slap some anti sieze on them while they are out. If they are bad and you're on a budget, Wheelers carries the SPC alignment cam kit for around $75. I used them 2 years ago, no problem so far.

 

Toyota lower arms come with bushings installed.

 

Moog complete control arms are about $150 or even less

I used them in my 06 without issue

If you have alignment hardware issues,just buy new OEM stuff. The SPC/Moog alignments kits aren’t as heavy duty

 

Maybe reach out to Solo and see what all it would be for our trucks?

 

My buddy is still on the hunt for a new to him 1st gen, once he’s got it I’m sure he’ll call Solo for an update on stock length. If not available he’s going LT to prevent a failure like his again.

 

If a better price can be had for oem alignment cam kits, go that route. When I checked around it was over $250. I'm not paying that much for some nuts and bolts.

 

If he does, keep us (or at least me) in the loop.

 

Can do

 

Great info guys thanks! I don’t really think now that what you get is worth the cost so probably wont go that route then.

 

You could make your own like @KarmaKannon

 

LOL yeah I’ve seen his. He utilizes those raptor coilovers if i remember correctly. I’m 16 and don’t really have the know how or time as it is my daily to do that. Someday maybe

 

Do your research on the Moog LCA's/balljoints. Specifically Google "Lock Steer" or YouTube it. I had issues with the Moogs on my Gen 2 Tundra.

Disclaimer, it may not be an issue on Gen 3s.

 

So just for shits and giggles if money wasn’t an issue would these fit a tundra?

 

Making your own isn't all that hard of you can weld and use a grinder with a cutting wheel. It also helps if you at least 1/1064th Macgyver.

Ground clearance- I don't see improving on the factory arm much without arching the arm and either losing travel with a shorter shock or building shock hoops. Cutting the factory coil mounts and building your own is not fun.

Travel- your cv and your ball joint will only cycle so far anyway and that's not much more than the factory shock will travel.

Beefier ball joint mount- the factory ball joint taper on the arm is pretty beefy already. Without getting into a milled block of something like 4130 I don't see it getting much stronger while still allowing ball joint articulation and turning.

If you swapped to a different spindle with a different ball joint setup that isn't trying to pull the hub up while the coil pushes the other way, which is trying to pull the joint apart when compressing the suspension... I don't see much gain besides bling. I also don't see you doing that for much under the about $3,000 + shocks for the total chaos long travel setup.

I run moog lower ball joints and have been for a year or so. They still feel tight but I'll try to replace them soon because of reasons stated above. Oem is still better, but I haven't had issues so far.