1.5 inch rear block axle won’t line up need help!!!!!

Watched videos on how to install 1.5 inch rear block and tried it today....and it did not turn out as expected....ha....lol....the tires off...shocks off...truck on jack stands....used floor jack to raise axle....removed u bolts....then axle moved...and I could not it get it to line up with 1.5 inch blocks.....removed brake line brackets....and still couldn’t the axle lined up....I think where I made the mistake was not placing jack stands under the axle before removing the u bolts....I only had 2 jack stands....I raised my 2017 f150 with 1.5 inch blocks and had no problem.....but I think the center drive line carrier brace should have been lossened or removed before I started...so I tried that but that didn’t work either....so tomorrow I’ll buy a second floor jack and 2 more jack stands....as of now the truck is in my garage on jack stands with axle laying on floor with brake line brackets disconnected....not as easy as I thought it was going to be....if anyone in the Gig Harbor area in Washington state ....I could use some help....hopefully the additional floor jack and and jack stands will correct the axle alignment to the springs to complete the 1.5 inch rear block install....any advise is appreciated...thank you ....peace....

 

Welcome to the forum..

Ditch the block and install Toytec shackles..
These shackles have the option of 1" or 1.5" of lift using the same shackle.
I've been using them on my 2014 for 5 years on the 1" setting..

Toytec Adjustable 1-1.5" Lift Shackles (07+Tundra) - Performance Without Drone (dirtydeedsindustries.com)




Or, someone with more knowledge on blocks will probably chime it..

Good luck..1LL

 

Thanks for the recommendation of shackles instead of blocks....

 

Here’s a iPhone picture of my mistake....ha...lol...

 

Hey, this is a total bummer for sure, but have definitely encountered my fair share of issues when working on my truck.. always seems like everything is going along smooth until it ain’t, there is just always one thing.

I think your right though, where you ran into trouble was leaving the axle un supported. Pretty sure when I did this type of work last I kept my bottle Jack from behind the seat underneath the where the driveline connects to the rear diff =\..

If I was closer I would definitely come he’ll, but hoping the picture and my explanation below can help you out.


See if you can Jack your axle up and get a bottle Jack on that collar (as circled in red on my picture), to allow the axle to “unwrap” and make the spring perches horizontal again. Once you get the bottle Jack to your best estimate of the height needed to mount the leaf springs on, use the floor Jack under whichever side you are working on for final height tuning.

I really hope this makes sense and works for you! The other idea would be to dismount your leafs from the truck as they will be easier to move around than the axle itself. Try only one point at a time so you can hopefully just drop the leaf spring from a pivot point and settle on the axle at the same angle as the perch.. this will still leave you with more struggling to get back connected but hopefully if you were able to mostly straighten out the axle with my first tip, this would be maneageble to man handle into place as springs definitely bend more than the axle does.

Good luck!

 

Yes....indeed...tomorrow I’ll try again with an additional floor jack and another 2 jack stands....thanks for the advice and photo...peace...

 

Oh boy lol. I'm pretty sure the axle rotated because you have both sides disconnected at the same time. When I had a Readylift in my 2013 before switching to coilovers and shackles, it had a 2 inch block and I was able to get it in by doing 1 side at a time. You may be able to rotate it back into position with a second jack. Just make sure noone is under it just incase it slips or the jack moves. Other than that, as mentioned, shackles are the better option. It will ride much better with shackles compared to blocks. Did you get brake line extension brackets and longer u-bolts? Sounds like you are putting in a front and rear spacer kit? Longer shocks would be needed as well since downtravel is decreased with blocks.

 

Yes your right.... both sides of axle disconnected at same time....this is the first time working on a tundra...ha...lol....lesson is being learned the hard way......hard knocks for sure...you’d think that at age 62....a person would’ve learned by now....ha..lol...ya...this old dog is going to have to learn some new tricks....ha....

 

If its a front and back misalignment as opposed to the axle just being rotated then use a ratchet strap between the axle and hitch to pull it into alignment, Same thing happened to me when I was installing my leaf springs. or if it has to go forward beetween the axle and frame in front of axle.

 

Something like this
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B4MKPOzkf3U

 

The axle is rotated. If you look at the pic you can see how the differential is rolled forward pointing towards the ground.

 

I think you've already got your answer but just to reconfirm, always do ONE SIDE at a time. Holds the axle in place (somewhat) and if you forget how something goes back together you've got a good undisturbed reference on hand.

Reconfiguring leaf packs and adding rear bump stops I've had my rear axles floating around as well and despite best efforts to keep stuff aligned, a couple big pry bars to shift the axle back under the leaf pack center pin were still required.

 

All great suggestions....having my morning coffee and then shower....then too the auto parts store fir additional 2 jack stands and one more floor jack....ha....lol....dang ....and I thought this was going to be an easy install.....the ratcheting straps for sure....connected to trailer hitch....all great ideas....thank you too all members for writing the reply’s....

 

Get some ratcheting cargo straps too. 2 will be great. Those will help you align the holes. I've used them. I've also used a big kettlebell 40lbs to bump the springs or axle to align the holes.

 

You just gotta man handle that thing and get one side bolted up. Once that side is on u bolts (but don't tighten the bolts, just get them on so you have wiggle room) then you wrestle the other side to get the u bolts on.

I would set the axle on a second set of jack stands, one on each side, and use your floor jack to align the axle. Ratchet straps help a lot too with alignment. Dont give up, you half way there.

 

Yes I agree. But even if it wasn’t rotated. The holes in the leaf and the pin and the axle bracket move out of alignment just from the fact that the hub and axle will shift when they are released. I changed my leafs I had this same issue without the added issue of the axle rotation. What I’m saying is yes it’s rotated but even if it wasn’t, there needs to be a way to align the axle back with the leaf pack. The axle does not stay in position when released from the leaf. Even when one side is done at a time. It has to be brought back into alignment and it’s really impossible to move with your hands, especially if your trying to hold it in place while bolting it on.

 

Boy oh boy...what a day......using multiple straps.....7 to be exact.....is what made the leaf springs and axle line up correctly.....I happen to have a fairly large garage with a lifetime collection of tools....and I just happen to have enough tie down ratcheting straps to get the job done successfully and safely....I did purchase 2 more jack stands and one more floor jack.....the floor jack will be returned cause it was way to small for my truck....but it did help...more than the 2 jack stands...it was patience and tenacity of not giving up....I started at 1030 this morning and finished around 4pm....i then installed my decked system and a friend came over just in time to assist me ....but it was for naught....as the day turned to mid evening and the decked system was nearly finished which I left mostly to him....as I finished the axle job....and I recognized that my friend had put the decked system together wrong....so I had to undo mostly everything he did and correct it and finish the decked install....I came back inside around 11pm...so I been burning the mid nite oil....but all in all I didn’t even put the 1.5 inch block in....I may just heed everyone’s advise about shackles instead of blocks for the rear....I just received my struts for the front and will order upper control arms and shackles..and other associated equipment for raising the truck 2 .25 to 3 inches in front and a 2 inches in the rear....the struts are icons 2.5 cdc with reservoir....I got some codes flashing after finishing the axle correction so I got to figure what that’s all about ...I bought the truck a week ago with 23000 miles on it...so warranty should kick in...so anyways I appreciate all the tundra forum members for their valuable advice and recommendations.....it’s very much appreciated....thank you every one for replying with helpful advice and ideas....helped a lot....2018 tundra 1794 edition ....now has 24000 miles on it....here’s to modding the Toyota’s....whoohoo...supercharged is on my mind...with hidden winch....ya...that’s what I’m talking about....but I tell you,what.....this 62 year old man is starting to feel the aches and pains of a lifetime of hard work....good nite everyone...stay strong and healthy....peace....

 

Happy to hear you have your truck back together!

 

Thank you... here’s a few pics of the error flashing....after the axle and leaf spring alignment....

 

Hope you didnt pinch the brake line while you were pulling that axle. Lots of codes is scary. Id check the wiring loom that runs to your bumper. Maybe you knocked something lode while you were under the truck

 

Glad to hear you got it in!

 

At dealership now to trouble shoot....hopefully all goes well.....researching tech stream now....