What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

You may have already had your questions answered but depending on what you are looking for, try ebay. This seller went out of his way to help me. I was able to get all matching locks which was nice. For seals, my local ARE dealer was very helpful. They sold me a bunch of what they call double bulb. If you provide the vin from your shell your local dealer should also be able to get you a replacement window quote.

 

3” in the front with OME shock and 2888 coil. 1” in the back with OME shock and Icon add a leaf. SPC UCAs.

got it from 1stgenoffraod.

 

You are stupid. You hate working on your POS truck. Its craptastic. Don’t do it. It will turn into more than you think.


There you go I warned you now go do it.

 

Nice! Another win on these.

 

Was the lube black? If not, then use MolyB.

Try lifting up on your door with one Hand and open with the other Hand to see if this changes the Mojo Dynamics. If it does then an adjustment is needed. If not, then new latch time.

 

More parts acquired while not-too-distant parts shops were having 10% + free ship sales last week.

Mulled over going aftermarket headlight housings, even doing projector, but it seems the price on these is going up since I got my truck a c ouple years ago (was $157/ea -> now $190/ea), so I pulled the trigger on OEM now before it's $500/pr. And it's probably stupid I'm buying new handle interior assemblies just to get lock stickers that aren't faded, but I got a killer deal on them so I don't care.

Hopefully I can get to some of the work on Friday, swapping out interior handles and tailgate rod clip swaps.

 

Yikes. Not sure what the handles cost but I’m sure it would pay for a lot of paint pens.

 

Good move on the OEM lamps. I put aftermarkets on my new to me 2002 and did not like the beam pattern, so went for Toyotas with Hella 2.0 bulbs and a Susquehanna harness. Beautiful even bright light. The original housings were so hazy and faded that I could not see past the plastic.

 

$14/ea after discounts.

I touched on this previously in another post, last year maybe. I tried everything: Dye. Marker. Cutting vinyl sticker to place over it. Everything looked splotchy or jury-rigged, I wasn't gonna do a paint marker. For how much time and effort I've wasted, I should've just bought OEM handles and been done w/it.

 

Only thing you didn’t try was Tape Off and Painting with OEM Toy Duplicolor Barcelona Red. I did my faded red seat buckles buttons with the same color. Looks OEM and holding well after two years! I erased all my old pics but can take some for anyone interested.

 

My wife has one of those Silhouette machines that cuts vinyl. I'm gonna make a pattern to replace the faded lock stickers in mine. If it works, I'll be happy to cut some more. For the cost of a stamp and envelope shipping they would be easy to send out.

 

Not looking forward to installing these but they will look much better.

 

No they install super simple. I placed the front and lined it up next to the mirror and then just press down as you move backwards towards the rear.

With window down

 

Welcome back, we missed you!!!!!!!!!

 

Do you recall if you had to remove the mirrors? It looks like the end might tuck under the mirror.

 

On my snugtop the window folds up and it has struts on it to help. The latch on the window may be broken on mine but my passengers were unable to unlatch the shell window. I need to look at it. Keeping coolers in the front of the bed by the cab could be pretty handy.I think the AC/Heat could be used to keep dogs comfortable back there as well.

I have looked into boots. All I have found are little blow up pool toy things that just go around the small sliding window in most trucks. I have not seen a boot that will work for the double cab.

I think that with the right sized bike inner tubes and some stategic cutting and splicing with rubber cement, a perfect fitting boot could be made.

The boot could be permanently (more or less) attached to the perimeter of the shell. There will be at least 2 valve stems in the boot. One valve stem is connected to the on board air. One valve stem connected to some kind of cheap small vacuum pump so the boot can be aired all the way down and tight against the shell and off the cab paint. Paint protection on the cab would still be necessary unless you only use the system at camp.

 

Shpray’d the Derale Flat BBQ Black. Don’t want this thing drawing too much attention from the Paparazzi.

 

Definetly don’t have to on my 2004 but I chose to take inside door panel off and inside mirror trim off. Gave me opportunity to see everything good and relube my window channels while easy access. Time I have plenty of !

 

Is it my imagination or is your truck longer than that the width of that house in the background?

 

Hahaha. That would be your imagination but I can say that the house is not much wider. Maybe 2 or 3 feet.

 

I haven't tried heating or cooling the cap with the truck's ventilation system. I have a 12V box fan that does fit nicely against the shell window if I don't want to pop the window out. What also works here (if not humid) is placing a wet towel where the fan blows on it into the cap. Mini swamp cooler.

At the river in the summertime when it is still 90+ degrees at midnight, I will take my 3 gallon buckets and fill them with river water, then soak towels in them. When the sun goes down I'll put the wet towels on top of the camper shell, on the truck, and the truck windshield. It cools down this hot ass black truck tremendously.

In mine there isn't a lot of "dead air space" to get cold in my cap when my air mattress is full, especially with two people. Foam topper on top of air mattress blocks cold air too. Due to my bed box we sleep about level with the cap windows. I've found that covering the windows is the best way to keep cold air from getting in. I've also used ceramic heaters and heater buddys inside of my cap to heat it up before getting in, but have never slept with them on.

 

No I didn’t. Just tuck the little front piece under the mirror trim first

 

I debadged mine and have zero regrets. I like the way it looks much more. I already know its a Tundra and I wanted to make it more my own. I recommend it if youre thinking about it.

 

Well, Darkness had me concerned but these were actually pretty easy to install. Removing the old ones takes a lot of force. It took me around 40 minutes per side. They look much better.

 

Could you have used your old ones again when you took them off though? How many clips broke?

 

Not a chance. I stayed true to my name and mangled the piss out of the old ones. Honestly, I don't see how anyone could remove the old ones without bending them. I used a flat pry bar/chisel thing that I have. Surprisingly, most of the clips didn't break. The new window trim came with clips do I didn't have to buy them separately.

 

Yeah the new trim is complete, which is nice. Mine had the clips all misaligned so I had to fiddle with them a bit. Popping it in was easy but mine were about half an inch off, my fault since I tried to correct the clip placement.

 

Source? I remember seeing some of the window trim a while back and it gave me some sticker shock. Mine look rough.

 

You'll still have sticker shock, even more for a double cab I think.

 

Double cabs are still like $120 a piece. Sucks. Still went thought mcgregor Toyota I think for the best price.