1st Gen. Lunch Table - General Discussion

If your running them in the stock fog location, I’d just use the factory connector. A 9006 male connector is easy to get a hold of to be plug and play.


If you want to control the fogs any time you want, the any time fog light mod can allow that too

 

@empty_lord that’s probably the route I’m gonna go. That sounds better than the trouble of running a separate harness. Non of the write ups I’ve looked at said what they did for their switch

appreciate it

 

something like this to wire the BD lights will make the plug and play, without hacking up stock wiring either

$7 TOMALL 9005 9006 Male Socket Connector for Headlights Light Bulb Retrofit Extension Wiring Harness

https://www.amazon.com/TOMALL-Conne...t=&hvlocphy=9016207&hvtargid=pla-565254675741

 

JBA stock AIP block off nubs





After some finessing on my part.
I only did one side because it was super uneven. Guess which side is leaking like a rusty bucket? The side I didn’t touch!!!
I’ll have to pull the passenger side and weld some more material on those block off ports

 

i told my dad about the legendary PHM and he absolutely finds your jokes HILARIOUS!

 

Awesome. I’m working on going Big Time on a fresh comedy circuit. You guys get first dibs on my shtuff, but I’m not charging you any extra for it.

 

I took some friendly 5.7s from on here into the hills have eyes territory yesterday. After they went home I had planned on taking a nap before going home myself, but some desert rat friends started filling me up with beer and sleep aid. Then they dragged me to a container house party where they kept filling me up. There were some characters at the party which is typical of desert rats, but they said the same thing about me.

This morning I woke up with a piece of sidewalk chalk in my pocket and have no clue where it came from.

 

Is that a piece of chalk in your pocket or are you just excited to see me...

 

negative credits if you involve aeroplanes in your commuting to gigs.

 

Saw this at Home Depot yesterday. Can't really blame him for the Chevy motor but the bowtie on the grille made me cringe a bit.

 

Struggling here with removal of spark plugs
decided to check ignition coils and plugs today. Coils seem ok, but I can't get my plugs out.
Using 5/8" spark plug socket and can't seem to get socket seated onto plug. Is a lot of force required to get the top of plug into the rubber of socket? Am I missing something here?

 

My friends look out for me like family.


I'm not edge, but grew up in it in the hardcore scene.

 

Claimed Edge in 1993. Never looked back. Best decision I've made. It's enabled all the other good things I've done.

 

To each their own, and I respect that. I've encountered plenty of good and plenty of bad from all walks of life.

 

You’ll want a Magnetized Socket Plug not the rubber old skool socket. Your life will be so much easier with it. Its a magnetized socket with a ball connection to extension. Win win win.

 

lowes or any link for example? lol please
i couldnt find any deep 5/8 non rubber at lowes earlier

 

Try autozoned or the likes. Call first before wasting time driving. They’ll know the tool. Its one piece socket plus extension that is a strong magnet. It does have a little Silcone ring inside for damage control.

 

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p...czJug-tMkO3mQnqG0dIaAhG3EALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

I think that's the one I have. He's right. It makes it so much easier.

 

should have gone there anyway. Always looking for excuses to take the boys out for a cruise though, she's just 3 miles away.

 

Really? I’ve had no issues using my rubber old school spark plug sockets.

 

I did and so have others. Reason I recco’d the Magnetized one. I could use the old skool, but what a PIA!

 

I’ll have to check one out next time cause I didn’t know anything besides the rubber ones existed.

 

So I called the local topper dealer, my top is older, so he had to call the manufacture..........
I have the ExtraVision cap, their top of the line model. Extra oversized side windows with sliding screens, full glass rear hatch.
The guy basically said no one does cab boots anymore, and since I have the full roll down window I would need to cut a lot of the shell to make it all line up.
Also Snugtop doesn’t sell a vented windoor for my oversized side windows. A new replacement window would be around 450 complete. Guy also said a local glass shop might have a hard time making a functional piece of replacement glass due to it being curved as well. He gave me a glass place to go to, and I’ve actually used them prior for other things, so I’ll see what they say

 

Try using some 3/4 or 7/8” Armaflex. You know... the shtuff they use for Pipe Insulation. Shtuff it around your window and between your cab. Read it here from someone that did it. Or, grab some Pool Noodles and filet them in half for Full Billy Bob Style Points!

 

I sorta thought about this, if anything I can do this once I’m where I need to be, maybe just one 6ft piece across the top would be good

 

Yeah. I’d go full coverage here near the Swamps and Bayou only when Camping. Remove for travel. Might find a piece on the side of road!

 

That was me that did this. This thread may give you some ideas too.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/camper-shell-tailgate-weatherproofing.49292/#post-1284629

 

nothing wrong with taking the boys by Lowes....teach em early !

 

Actually using both works great.

Magnetic to easily remove them and the rubber one to screw them in by hand and catch the threads without ruining them.

Just make sure you only grab the spark plug with the socket 1/2 on so if you over torque it by hand, the plug slips in the rubber section and never damages the block threads for the plug.

 

Not sure your Magnetic Type, but the one I have is all I need. High Quality Silicone inside. Reverse Screw Technique on the Thread until the drop seat and then go righty tighty for the win!