Want to fix Tundra audio? That will be $2000, please

Can someone explain the Tundra audio system? I have a 2021 Crewmax without JBL.

Yes, I've already looked at 12volts. They have this system available for the 2021:
https://www.shop.tech12volts.com/product.sc?productId=529&categoryId=124

So that's dropping a $1000 and I would thus have brand new speakers, Amp and sub.

But... that's still with the OEM non-JBL, non-Nav head unit. When considering a HU upgrade it seems one should consider nothing less than a Wireless Android Auto compatible unit. When combined with a bezel kit, Maestro box and a mid-range HU like the Pioneer AVH-W4500NEX you're looking at a further $1000.

Open questions:
- What purpose is served by the factory Amp under the passenger side seat? My 2008 Tundra didn't have it at all. I was able to simply upgrade the head unit and the speakers seemingly connected directly to the new HU. Why do the newer Tundras have an Amp just for the speakers?
- Does that Amp need to be replaced when making upgrades? Is it somehow responsible for the poor performance of the audio system?
- Are the stock speakers really that crappy? I'd guess YES: OEM speakers are usually the cheapest paper type available.
- Is it possible to upgrade the speakers without replacing the wiring? And the wires to the speakers are fed from the crappy OEM Amp, yes?

I'm at a crossroads. Either do nothing, and live with the stock system, and use it only as a glorified Bluetooth phone speaker since I never want to listen to music on it. Or else make an upgrade that seems like an all-or-nothing proposition. $2k minimum, closer to $3k if I also want a head unit with a larger screen than 7".

Ugh. A new vehicle shouldn't be like this when I can buy a $50 bluetooth speaker that would sound better.

 

Answers inserted above. I ended up spending about $2,100-2,500 all in. That was replacing every speaker, HU, 5 channel JL amp and two subs.

 

My experience is doing the T12V kit works perfect, and I've seen others have gotten wireless adapters to plug into the USB from Amazon for cheap. I personally don't see a need to replace the HU for audio reasons unless you're going to spend 10k on a top notch system throughout. And as for comparison to other pickups, the mid level trims I've driven are not any better than the Tundra, they're all crap and need the same upgrades.

 

I already see a huge reason to upgrade the HU: It won't even correctly recognize my USB stick that's filled with audio. When I pick a folder, it goes to the first song (alphabetical order.) When I click "browse by artist" it goes to the 2nd song. When "browse by genre", goes to the 3rd song. It's a brain-dead unit. I'm an electronics engineer, I'm flabbergasted at how horrible the entire system is, every component is utter crap.

 

Unless it is designed to aggravate you more.....

 

Most OEM headunits are junk - always has been this way and always will be. The Bose/JBL/Beats By Dre branding is just ways to jack up the price - you're paying extra duckets for minimal enhancement. Premium trims may sound a bit better, but if you really care about sound quality you'd still rip those out to replace with better components and amps.

Best thing for you to do IMO is just spend $1k on a new headunit - gain the wireless AA/CP and see how the cab sounds with a multi-band EQ, higher wattage to the speakers, etc. You'll be absolutely amazed how much it wakes up a stock system.

Then, sometime in the future you can decide if you want to add a sub (easier with that new head unit) or add component speakers with/without an extra amp (bit of a PITA no matter what route).

You don't have to go full bore from the get go.

 

That would be an issue for sure, something I'm not familiar with. I just use my phone on BT so the HU can be as dumb as it wants, just play what my phone is telling it to play.

I went the other way, speakers/amp/sub first and it does exactly what you said, and as the first reply said the OEM speakers/amp are complete junk. They are as cheap as possible. The OEM HU with those upgrades work awesome with a BT phone connection.

 

You can always shop for your own system and if you are willing to do the install you might be able to get to a price that is more reasonable. One thing that could save you a little is determining if you really need rear door speakers. Me personally, i don't, and haven't in my last 3 vehicles ran rear speakers. I find they require a lot of work and dsp tuning to keep them from messing with the imaging of my front stage. I don't miss them at all.

You'd also be surprised at the quality you can get from less expensive speakers also. One of the most costly items of a component set of speakers is the crossover that comes with them and if you are going to be getting a modern headunit and an amp you don't need the crossover. You can do that through your head unit and amps.

Theres ways to bring the cost down but it will require a decent amount of time and patience. Thats the benefit though of working with a dealer like tech12volts. All the equipment, speakers, amps, harnesses, ect are of very respectable quality and honestly not priced that bad at all. Audio systems are just expensive unless you have the time to do it yourself.

If you are interested in pricing out what you'll need then let us know. Im more than happy to see if we could put something together that you might like.

 

Damn. I wish I had your problems. I can't tell the difference most of the time due to mid-range hearing loss - riding motorcycles without earplugs will do that to you. Not noisy pipes (which I hate) but wind noise.

Protect your hearing, folks. It don't come back once it's gone.

 

The stock/JBL speakers are pretty junky though.

 

The jbl head unit is a dinosaur. Fugly as hell, navigation is slow, and tiny inside a big truck. It's the first thing I replaced and upgraded the speakers, subs and amp along the way.

 

I had the JBL and frankly it is a joke that those are considered premium audio systems.

I ended up replacing all the speakers, and getting a new head unit, everything is great now. I don't recall what premium Toyota charges for their upgraded sound systems but whatever it is, its too much.

 

I don't mind doing work myself. It's that OEM Amp under the passenger seat that's so confusing. No one can say why it's there, can I get rid of it, how to bypass it, can I still use the factory speaker wires etc.

- Should I keep the OEM Amp?
- If I upgrade the HU, is it possible to bypass the Amp?
- Can a new HU drive the speakers directly?
- How can one preserve the factory speaker wires? I thought they came from the Amp... if it's deleted, what drives the speakers?
- Do I need a new Amp? Why? Don't modern head units supply enough power?

I already have a kicker hideaway sub with a built-in Amp, left from a previous vehicle, seems like it would be enough as a Sub without resorting to a new Amp.

So my build:
- New HU ($600-800?)
- New Speakers (perhaps only for the front doors? If people don't upgrade the back, are they left unplugged? What about the dash tweeters? ) ($300?)
- Connect my old powered sub directly, without an intermediate Amp ($0.00)

Total $1000

 

What do you mean? I still hear the black sabbath and the van halen concerts I went to back in the 70 s; the gifts that keep giving

 

I kept the head unit for as lon

Unfortunately there isn't 1 weak link in the tundra stereos. Once you replace one thing, you'll find another weak link.

If you aren't married to your factory head unit, i'd start by replacing it. You can power everything from the new head unit, but your factory speakers wont hold for long, so i'd plan on getting a set of components for the front and coax's for the rear. You will want to bypass/remove the factory amp, it will do nothing for you.
This is a good option for future upgrading. If you want more powah, add a 5ch amp and a sub or two in the back.

For around $1600ish:

$999 Kenwood DMX1037s 10.1" High Definition Car Stereo Receiver with Capacitive Touch Panel

Kenwood DMX1037s
Maestro with all the adaptors/connectors
Audiofrog G60S Components for the front
whatever 6.5" coax's you can find a deal on for the rear
Factory amp bypass kit (tech12volt)

You could add a 5ch amp and a 4ga wiring kit for probably another $300-500
Sub(s) and box for another $200-500

Edit: Just re-read your last post:
Disconnect the L/C/R dash tweeters and put the tweeters from the components in the sail panels (at the rear view mirror). You could also put them in the L/R dash tweeter location, depending on which you think sounds better
.
You can use the factory wiring if you aren't pushing a lot of power (50w rms/channel), you will use the amp bypass kit to....well....bypass the factory amp. Think of it as a jumper to go from the wiring that would go into the factory amp to the speaker wire going to the door speakers.

You can use your leftover powered subwoofer. If it has RCA inputs, just run a set of rca's from the SW output of the new head unit to your sub, you'll need to run a dedicated power from the battery, and a remote turn-on from the head unit.

 

From what everyone is saying how bad the JBL system is in the tundra. Maybe I should pass on getting my Pro. Lol. My JBL system sounds decent in my 2020AG 4runner Pro. It sounds like you will need to drop at least $3000 in to a new audio system. I don’t think that bad if you really enjoy your music. It won’t be my first time to do that. That’s why my friends audio shop is always so busy with aftermarket systems.

 

A good pioneer double din $300 - $350

Front stage
- ssa evil 6.5" mids $110 (ssa make really nice audio gear. Their subs are amazing)
-ssa evil 1.25" tweeters $90 (can be bought without having to buy the crossovers)
-Soundqubed 4 channel S4_100 $150

Sub stage
- basically $400 can get you a good amp and a good sub. Give or take $100.

$75 amp witing kit (give or take $15 depending if you can buy your own welding leads).

$75 on sound dampening

$55 if you can build your own sub enclosure.

$25 on speaker adapters

That brings you in at around $1300 - $1400. Theres still other options that can cut that price down more and you'd still be getting good gear.

 

Thanks!

Having some trouble locating the "Amp bypass harness" from either tech12volt or elsewhere. He has one for JBL, but not non-JBL.
But is this the same thing? It's a LOC (line output converter.)
https://shop.tech12volts.com/product.sc?productId=521&categoryId=32

Could I skip the harness and simply run a handful of speaker wires from an aftermarket HU and connect to the speaker wires that are presumably available at the OEM Amp location? (and throw away the Amp)

So here's a video that explains the Tundra speaker connections at a high level but I still don't understand how the non-JBL Amp is driven from the OEM radio and how that amp drives the door speakers.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=crYA-sCcG8U

 

It is basically part of the CAN/bus tied to the ECM to orchestrate with other warning systems. Amplifying sound is an afterthought. I'm not as familiar with non-JBL, but I do know speaker wiring is different between JBL/Non-JBL. Count me as one that has had great success with tech12volts and their pricing is better than anything (other than used) I could beat purchasing components myself. Especially some of the custom harnesses, didn't cut a single speaker wire installing. Estimates I received from local installers for systems (parts and labor) was well north of 5k on several of the quotes.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Vcva0lW_6A

 

I spent about 1400 bucks through Tech12volts. Kept the JBL headunit, replaced the amp, speakers, got the double sub set up and the maestro. I can’t imagine needing a new headunit with that set up, unless you have one of the older ones without CarPlay.
My wife’s Platinum Sequoia has the old JBL headunit. If I upgrade hers the headunit will definitely have to go, but the 2021 Platinum Tundra does have a good one.

My system now sounds better than anybody else’s I know. I love loud music and bass, and this setup sounds perfect in my opinion. I really can’t see where it can be improved any more now.

 

Thanks Jason, Did you go with James ported 10 inch double sub box?

 

If any of y'all have ties to DE.......I highly recommend Sound of Tri-state. They have hooked up my last three trucks over the years including this one. I tell them exactly what I am looking for. Loud clean crisp sound with the ability to thump a little if I wanted to.

They set up my Tundra replacing all of the speakers with Hertz, pulling the silly Toyota sub box (if you want to call it that) and replacing it with the JL audio Tundra crew max specific sub box (very pricey just for it) putting an amp in, a bass dial to tweak as needed depending on what I am listening to, and a sound processor so I can keep the head unit, blue tooth etc.. etc....but just have better sound and signal coming from the original head unit.

Very very happy with the quality of work and sound.

Was pricey.....between 3 and 4K. But the offer 0% for a year or 18 months depending on promotions etc....etc....

Good luck!

JT

 

Yes sir. This is what I got, plus the maestro and adder for the double sub. I installed it myself with zero previous audio installation experience. A friend helped with some advice over the phone, but it was relatively easy to do.

https://www.shop.tech12volts.com/product.sc?productId=529&categoryId=124

 

Sounds good JT. What amp and sub did you use? JL TW3?

 

What was the Maestro for? I though that's only needed for an aftermarket HU.

 

James' website is kinda limited, he sells a lot more stuff than whats on his site (unfortunately). He can set you up.
You could do what you said and run a bunch of speaker wires to the factory locations, but its a lot of work for nothing if you can just get the bypass harness.
The LOC is only used if you were going to keep the factory head unit AND adding a 4 or 5ch amp. If you are replacing the head unit, you dont need one.

As far as how the factory amplifier works: The head unit puts out 5watts (not sure of the actual power outputs) of power to the 4 door speakers (we are going to ignore the dash speakers for now), the factory amplifier grabs that 5w worth of power/signal and ups it to 15w and then sends it to the door speakers.
Just fyi a aftermarket head unit will put out around 25w continuous

 

Thanks Danimal!

Well.... ended up just pulling the trigger on the Hertz/Infinity "complete package" from tech12volts. I saw some of you give a good review to that same package, so I figured YOLO. It's a $1000 but OTOH the individual pieces seem to price out to the same number if I were to start ordering things separately. It's on sale now, FWIW, normal price around $1500. Seems like a decent deal for what I'm getting.

Keeping the factory HU for the time being, for following reasons:
- At least it looks clean. No need to wonder about the bezels or buttons.
- Integrated bluetooth, phone, mic - this is ultimately one of the most important features. With aftermarket I'd need to route a new mic for sure.
- Tried spotify, seems to work fine. I should probably migrate to this anyway rather than relying on a USB stick. (May need to reformat the stick for use in the Tundra... don't know why it's not behaving well)
- It's another $1000. I figure I'll get the most value out of replacing the speakers, adding an amp and the sub.

I'll upgrade the HU as a separate step, if ever.

 

There's another guy from DE with the tech12volt Hertz package installed. We need to organize a mini meet up and listen to the various audio setups!

I bought my Kenwood double din and a few small items from Tri state but did the install myself and took it to a guy in NY for the tuning.

 

Quoting myself... that scheme of keeping the HU just went out the window!
- Now in for a Kenwood DMX1057XR. That HU has it all!
- Blew $300 in related accessories on Crutchfield, another $100 on Amazon
- And picked 'Amazon Basics' sound deadening material, seemed like the best bang for the buck. Will only do the doors.

In for a penny, in for a pound. With all my past vehicles I've done a half-ass upgrade only to come back years later and do it again. I'll hopefully just get it over with all at once.