oil change and questions?

Same.

 

This is exactly what I was talking about earlier in this thread. Thank you!

 

do you have the link to the kit?

 

$75 Motivx Tools Oil Filter Wrench, Drain Tool, and Advanced Engine Oil Funnel Set for Toyota & Lexus 2.0L - 5.7L Engines With Cartridge Style Systems

https://www.amazon.com/Motivx-Tools-Filter-Wrench-Advanced/dp/B0791MWXDC

Should be the kit about $60

 

thanks!

so is this a quick drain valve that screw into the oil pan and the hose is a quick release draining kit? im confused on that part (clear tubing and metal fitting)

 

No, the tubing and valve is to drain the filter. If you want a valve on the pan, you’ll need a Fumoto valve.

 

The hose is for draining the filter. It is still a little messy but nothing like using the plastic nipple that comes with the filter. I cut off a piece of the hose and use it on the Fumoto valve.

 

I just used this kit on my first oil change this weekend. Worked perfectly. Very little spillage and everything fits the factory threads perfectly. Might be the best money I’ve spent yet.

 

I went to the motivx site to order a kit and they changed the design of the filter wrench. Has anyone used the new design?

 

Pics of the new vs old so we know which one we have?

 

Old is by itself. New is in the kit.

 

At 2400 ish miles my 2020 drained exactly 8 qts. This from the pan and filter. I put 8 qts back in and the dip stick marks have been spot on.

 

I am about to go on a long trip so I am trying QS 5W-30 right now. I noticed my coolant temp increased 1° after the change. I know 0W-20 is recommended, but I’m fixing to drive mostly 75 mph on an 8 hour trip. I wanted more viscosity. I’ll change back to OEM oil next change after the trip.

 

My oil pressure when warm and driving steady is always a little lower than the middle. It’s the same whether I am using 0W-20 or 5W-30.

 

I've noticed the same thing as well. No change in oil pressure shown on gauge with 0W-20 or 5W-30.

 

I have the new one. It doesn't have the timing teeth on it like the old one, but the tolerances are tighter? Its stood up to my abuse so far and has less chances of cracking. Only thing I noticed is it it can be a pain to get on/off sometimes since the tolerances are so tight.

 

I'm running 15w40 Rotella T6. You will be fine. I run 5w30 in the winter. 0w20 never sees my engine.

 

I bought the new Motivx kit, and I ended up purchasing the Valvomax drain plug. I have two more freebies after that im doing it myself. I already have the oil and filters. I’m using the Mobil 1 0W-20 and the OEM filters which i got from Amazon i think it was the 10 piece pack. Also got the aluminum housing.

 

I use this filter wrench, that I bought from the dealer. It is what their techs use, and does not interface those idiotic plastic tabs. Fits tight and hasn’t failed to remove the original 14 year old plastic oil filter housing.


As you can see it is made out of aluminum with a provision for a 24mm or 1” socket to drive it. All one chunk of aluminum, no center part made of metal to break away from the rest of the filter wrench.

For oil I use Mobil 1 0W-20 in the winter and spring, and 5W-20 in the next oil change which usually gets me to my late fall/winter change back to 0W-20.

I can buy Mobil 1 filters locally so I use those and find their filter kits superior to any others I’ve tried. They even have a nice silicone rubber gasket set.

I am also in the Fumoto drain valve camp. Got sick of oil on my garage floor. The Fumoto is brilliant. I use one with a nipple and hose.

 

Just goes to show if you are doing your own changes there is no reason for the metal housing. All the problems related to the plastic housing are due to over tightening from shops or dealers.

 

I didn't even know there was an aluminum housing available. So my dumb ass just kept using the plastic one, and now I'm too cheap to switch over.

 

That's where mine sits. I think there are several threads on this that state the same.

 

I'm running 15W40 and depending on RPM during normal driving it will sit in the middle. But still sit slightly below at idle

 

Can I ask why you are running 15W4O in the first place?

 

Curious about that myself.

 

After lots and lots of research i came to the conclusion that the only reason why 0w20 is speced for these engines is because of the EPA. The same exact engine is used in the Land Cruiser world wide which can use all the way up to 20w50 in super hot climates. Toyota even tells you on the Techinfo site that if you have a Tundra in Mexico that you can use 0w20,5w20,5w30,10w30,15w40 and 20w50. 0w20 only makes sense if you live in sub zero temperatures year round. I only switch to 5w30 in the winter since I'm in New England where winters are not super crazy cold all the time but for the summer 15w40 is completely acceptable for the temps here and you'd be amazed how quiet the engine is with heavier oil. 0w20 is to help companies comply with CAFE standards and the EPA but they dont care about the longevity of your engine.

 

Interesting.

I have run 0W-30 before and it presented no issues. Maybe I will go back to a 5W-30 synthetic. That would greatly simplify my oil buying logistics since my LS3 in the SS and the wife’s old Scion tC both run 5W-30.

 

Same boat here, my motorcycle takes 15w40 Rotella T6 and now so does my truck in the summer so it makes things a little easier. When I run 5w30 I us the Rotella Gas Truck oil, Id use T6 but they dont make it in a 5w30 unfortunately.

 

Having had good luck with Mobil 1 for two decades I will probably just keep using that.

Ultimately frequency of oil changes trumps using any specific oil (assuming all of them meet manufacturer standards).

So in about 4000 miles I will change to a 0W-30 or 5W-30.

 

Totally agree! So much info out there about all different oils its hard to find a bad one these days. I only go with the T6 because its actually one of the few oils approved for my bikes wet clutch and it has good reviews as a truck oil as well so two birds one stone.