What causes more issues with rubbing, tire width or dia

Hey guys. I’m looking to level the front of my Tundra with bilstein 5100’s and keep my factory 18” +60 TRD off-road wheels. I’m hoping to go with a 295/70 or 285/75 tire. With the +60 offset what is going to cause more issues, the 295/70 width or the larger 285/75 diameter? Also, would I be able to get by on the 5100 middle setting or would I have to go with the top?

 

It is going to be close with either of your tire choices. I have run the 5160's (same height settings as the 5100's I believe) on top setting with 295/70 Falken's and the factory wheels. No rub on the UCA's, fenders or flaps, but had to trim the rear corners of the TRD Off Road skid plate.

 

Good thread.
I'm looking at this very issue.
Wife wants "beefier" tires on truck but doesn't understand the details involved.
For me noise is the biggest concern. Keeping the factory rims on my TRD off road, what size can I take it to with front leveling only.

 

As 1" spacer from Bora would help clear either.

+25mm is the most ideal offset to help clear tires.

Plus a good alignment will go a long way. You'll need positive caster.

 

The spacers made mine rub more so I returned them. Stock rims with 285/75r18 Falken. With lift they rubbed the stock skid and the sway bar ever so slightly. In the chop shop now for bumpers and they look beefier and I want more beef but don’t wanna cut the body mount or re-gear so I’m looking for some rock warrior wheels and wanna try 315/70r17. I also have plenty more mods to do before I change tires so I’ll finish the bumpers and lights before I get to the next tire size. Also planning a big trip in June so plenty of miles to wear this excellent set of tires down so I get to change the look sooner haha.

 

I fit 285/75s on stock wheels easily. I have the TRD Fox setup (2” higher than before). Just removed the little mud flap in front of the front tire. It seems 295/70 guys have to do actual trimming. The wider 295 just barely clears the stock UCA as well. Either way, both sizes are doable with a 2” lift up front.

 

I hope I have the same experience. I’m getting Icon 2.5s installed on all 4 corners tomorrow with Falken Wildpeaks 285/75R18 with +30 offset. The Icons can do 0-3” so I’ll go for a minimum of 2”.

 

This seems to be the sweet spot. The clearance with the UCAs is tight without spacers. If you air down for off road, they will rub. I have 295s, 1500s top setting and 1.25 spacers. I took the spat, small mud flap, off and haven't had any problems. I've heard a rub maybe 4 or 5 times, but never saw a mark and can't duplicate it. Always when braking and turning hard.

 

Ironically, even though its always stated otherwise, the standard 0-3" lifts do nothing for fixing rub. On our IFS trucks, they will still make the same range of motion lifted or not, at least until you swap out axles, LCAs and go LT.

The biggest issues are finding a correct offset and wheel width, and addressing the rub that occurs due to scrub radius and not compression.

Lower offsets and wider widths push the furthest edge of the tire further out, once the steering is turned the wheel will now make a wider arc and this is where most of the rubbing occurs. It will happen primarily on the front bumper liner plastic, and if offset is low enough, on the cab mount.

Easiest fix for the bumper is to remove the plastic, next easiest would be to cut or mold it with heat. That problem can be solved in as little as 10 minutes or closer to a hour or so if you want to cut it up.

CMCs seem to be required once you get past the +25 offsets. I've ran 35s on a stock pro and had no rub with a 17x8.5+25, I did get a CMC, but with the intent to later switch to Methods that have 0 offset.
CMC is really a simple thing though, the hardest part is finding a shop to do it locally. IMO there shouldnt be any hesitation to do one, as long as the shop does good work.

Again, ironically, lifting on stock UCAs will move the caster angle closer toward the cab side and increase the chance of cab mount rub. Aftermarket UCAs can be utilized to get that caster back toward the front bumper, which can avoid a CMC, but increase fender plastic rub.

If I had more time and motivation I would throw the 35s on my current truck before lifting it just to show this is possible, but removing 35s are a beast and its much easier to put the lift on with stock wheels and tires going off and on.

I wont link it this time, but youtube Icon wheels on a Tundra and there will be a video detailing how the make no contact under full compression even while turned. That's with 35s, offset is key, wheel scrub radius is key. Lifts dont correct the likeliness of rub.


If anyone has an experience of rub while driving in a straight line let me know.