What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

I had this old boss that used to say some of the funniest shtuff. He was a small business owner and we just finished a job at a clients. Guy asks my boss if he could drop off a letter in the mailbox on the way out of the neighborhood. My boss says, ‘Would you like me to pick up a gallon of milk, too?’

 

My Rear o2’s were both zero Ohm and out of Spec with no check engine light. Not sure what was up with that, but ended up replacing all 4. The 2 fronts were Bosch and out of Spec (9 vs 13Ohm). Truck drives better. MPG creeped up a little and feels like way more torque. Denso all the way baby!

 

I look forward to your report.

 

I did mine in black cause I knew I wasn’t gonna be able to match the fawn color. I like the thickness of the wheel better since it’s pretty thin without anything.

 

I'm following you to here. Front 02 does the adjustments needed. Rear 02 flips the light on or off when needed. I completely understand the lack of flash for the CEL. No real damage like this example. When I had bad plug wires three years ago I was 70 miles from home, and it was 3:00 am. I limped her home CEL flashing the whole time.

One thing I don't understand is if I have consistently documented my real world fuel mileage in this thread, and it consistently been in the 15 range. Why would it change immediately after my fouler install?

What could be the variable? I'm driving on the same roads. I'm driving mostly the same way. If I had a heavy foot I documented that in the thread I linked earlier. I'm driving at roughly the same times, and got gas predominantly at the same gas station unless I just HAD to get gas elsewhere.

So, my fouler was really as far as I was going to go into this rabbit hole. If it turned off my CEL, then great. I've been looking at that damned orange light since before I could drive.

If the rear 02 only does "Hey your car don't work right" light then I'm still good. No engine harm just turning off a light.

 

Might be after this Summer as mine historically (brand regardless) last about 1 year. Reason for my frustation in spending $$$ when we can save. The Denso should be quality. Hard to find and with shipping may be around $50 but the money is in future saving$.

I’ll start working the autozoners in a few months picking their brainz for in store delivery.

 

If they work well and are available here in the land of ice and snow, I may follow your lead. I've been using the Michelin wipers from Costco up until now. I probably run them longer than I should, but I would get a little over a year out of them as well but the quality of the wipe degrades by about month 8. These Bosch ran me $58 Canuckistani Pesos, and the Costco ones came in around $43 Canuckistani Pesos according to my records. Not a huge difference, especially if the Bosch are significantly better quality and I milk more life out of them.

 

@Richid maybe things are different for the 5VZ-FE engine. I've only got two sensors.

Pre-cat, and post-cat.

I do not have four Like the rest of yall

 

Good morning neighbors! Open header start up, felt just like Ricky Bobby

 

I just put a leather wheel in.

 

5vz only has one bank

 

I’m afraid to say that’s just placebo effect. The rear sender does one thing only, it just reads to see if the cat is ok. You can drive with it completely off abs be fine (other than the check light)

 

Yup. Loncky Leather. It’s still the jam.

 

Okie dokie then

 

I thought I heard some thunder coming from the southeast of me!

 

No pics, in the process of plastidip'in all the chrome...even though the paint on this truck sucks lol.. no suspension parts coming in yet so just doing little things.

 

Unless your going to set up one of those EPA labs, you'll never be able to factor out things like weather/wind/acceleration rate. If your local depot has switched to summer blend, you'll see a difference as well.

So many factors that can impact mileage.

It's much better to have the CEL light off so you can see if you are having other problems. My old pathfinder had it on for the rear O2's as well and I missed the misfire code until one of the coils actually failed. It would have been way easier than limping it to the dealer to pay full price for one. The only reason I used a circuit on it as that the location was tough to add one of those 'defoulers' due to space.

But same result - as long as the light's off, you'll be able to see if a new code triggers it.

 

thanks for the education @Richid and healthy discussion. Lest I forget @empty_lord.

In other news, oil change.

 

First wash in '21; been a bum for a bit.
My baby and my daily beater...

 

Seems like a lot more money and work. What's the best website to shop for used wheels?

 

Is that a c30 I see?? I grew up with volvos as my parents cars and Ive always wanted a manual c30

 

I got mine locally, but eBay is usually the best bet. Mines pretty mint

 

It is; an R Design 6 speed.
My last three daily's have been manuals; 1988 CRX SI 5 speed, 2013 Golf TDI 6 speed (loved this car) and now the 2011 C30.

 

Tried removing my step bars a few weeks ago and 1/2 breaker bar wasn’t going to cut it. Used it as an excuse to finally order my 1/2 cordless impact. Two bolts sheared right off and the others came out after rattling on them a bit. I think it looks cleaner, especially since the bars were getting pretty rusty.

They weren’t joking when they said 1400ft/lb
of nut bustin’ torque



Before:


After:

 

Tool’d around on the truck today. Got her washed and AeroSpace 303’d.

Sealed off a few holes from engine bay that connect with the Filter Box Intake Chamber to stop hot bay air from infiltrations. Swapped in new Denso Made in USA filter replacing the STP China. Big difference in feel and look.

 

Gave the old TRD rear sway bar and hardware a refresh.

 

It's not my choice because of it being a straight 90 weight. It's the additive package and fluid engineering. As long as it says 90 on the end, it meets the requirements for our diffs (ie:

$39 75w-90 GL-5 Limited Slip, Ultra Long Drain 500k Miles, Manual Transmission, Gear/Differential Lubricant (1 Gallon)

75w-90 or 80w-90).

I went through about 12-15 different gear oils with my pricier Cusco RS 2-way LSD and this stuff was the best for having good lockup without excessive chattering/clunking. Basically it comes with a proper amount of friction modifiers.

 

Did some big beads on everything I could get to. Technically I started piping after nine and was cleaned up before 5. Custom making brackets and trying to hold everything up and tight as I could took the most time. The drive shaft has one of my fingers clearance(my dad had banana fingers, and I’m not far behind) and the lowest part is the x pipe which is basically flush with the frame rails/sliders so that’s good!


Tomorrow I just have to finish the muffler exit over the axle and then pull it all down and fill weld! Also towards the end of the day I was getting that island breeze which isn’t conducive for mig welding!

 

Island Breeze = 5 o’clock somewhere.

Nice work. How much will you charge me to do mine?