Switch Pro 9100 Install Instructions

Ladies and Gentlemen, are there any good instructions or videos out there that show the full install of the Switch Pro 9100 on the Tudra. I looked through the forums and online and there are no good install instructions. I bought the SDHQ kit which has the mount just below the shifter as pictured as well as in the engine bay just beside the headlight. What is the best routing method for the wires to the engine bay? I'd rather not have to drill or go through a firewall. Thanks everyone.

 

I use the driver side rubber grommet... simply small from the engine bay and also inside .. if you’re looking at cable run from the inside go towards the right side and left of the grommet from the engine bay ... nice switch .. i end up going with SPOD Source LT with the switch by the sunglass holder. Good luck

 

The switch pro 9100 requires you to splice into a headlight wire to use the dim feature on the controller as well as splice into a ignition wire for other features. I am not a fan of splicing if I don't have to. Does anyone know if I can tap into one of these fuses for the headlights/ignition instead of splicing?

 

Just use the add a fuse. You can follow the factory harness into the fuse box.


I went through the firewall below the factory wiring harness. You’ll need to depin the control cable connector so you can pass the cable through.

 

Do you know which fuses you're tapped into? It looks like you tapped into "ign", "led ll", and "led lh". Are you running the switch pro 9100 as well?

 

Yup 9100. SDHQ mounts. High low and ignition.

 

Thanks! That helps a ton. Did you have to drill a hole in the fuse box to run the wires? I'm also looking at the firewall now. Not seeing any room to squeeze the harness through unless I cut the nipple on the bottom.

 

No drilling. I popped out the plastic thing the factory wires came though. My wires are in the blue sleeve

I went through the nipple. Cut if off then shove something through with the wires taped (I used some fiberglass fish sticks from harbor freight. They are like $10 for a 12 pack). I had to use some dish soap to get them to pull through, it’s definitely sealed tight against the control cable.

 

Awesome, I'll give it a try when I do my install.

 

I cut the plastic nipple and used this to run the switch pro cable in. I did depin the cable tho.

StartFine Fish Tape Wire Puller Through Wall Wire Threader Fish plus Fish Cable Fastener with Steel rope 20ft(6M)

https://www.amazon.com/Puller-Throu...qid=1598228521&sprefix=cable+fishing+&sr=8-13

 

Mines is a 2017 so my fuse box is a little different from yours. Would you know an alternative fuse I can use for the white wire?

 

I have the same setup. I went through the firewall grommet on the drivers side. Had my wife do it cause I knew it’d drive me crazy. I ran the main wire, lighting wire and ignition wire through. I haven’t hooked up the lighting or ignition wires yet.

Did you get their mount? It hides the switch pro in front of the battery and makes it look clean. I took the grill off and did all the splicing and hid it behind the solid part of the drivers side of the grill. There is a hole you can run all the wires through in front of the battery by the mount. You can’t see the wires, but if I need to change something I just pop the grill off and can get to all of it.

https://sdhqoffroad.com/products/14-20-tundra-switch-pros-power-module-mounting-system

 

On your second pic is the wire from the fog fr to the alt-5 used to keep the fog lights on without headlights?

 

Head RL or Head LL

 

Thank you!

 

Could you provide a link to the kit you bought? The one I’m seeing says it’s for 12-17 years only.

https://www.4x4spod.com/sourcelt_w_led_switch_panel_2012_2017_toyota_tundra

Or am I missing something and these will work for newer models as well? I have a ‘21.

 

This is such a helpful post, @shellshock - I am copycatting with impunity. Love how you found a way into the fuse box through the factory entry point!

 

Glad to help

Keeps things so much cleaner and you don’t have to drill any holes which is always a nice bonus

 

Yeah, definitely doing that, man. Hey, can you show a pic of how you decided to run all the positive wiring to the accessories from the SP9100 harness? Seems like the thing to do is mount a distribution block on a Powertrays plank bolted to the top of the fuse box. You compromise water resistance, but they sell it as easier to add things in the future. Normally, I’d just prefer to solder in some butt splices, stick them in a wire loom and tuck them away but just curious what your approach was.

 

SDHQ mount for the switch pro (also used the interior mount)
https://sdhqoffroad.com/collections...ndra-switch-pros-power-module-mounting-system

All the connections are done with heat shrink crimps

$58 Wirefy Heat Shrink Crimp Connectors Kit - Heat Shrink Wire Connectors - Automotive Wire Connectors Kit - Insulated Ring, Spade, Fork, Hook & Butt Terminal Connectors - 22-10 Gauge - 540 PCS

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07124B886

I’ve thought about distribution block and stuff, but since doing it this way, I’ve never had a need to disconnect something. I’ve got disconnects on the light side so dont really need another place to disconnect the wiring. I figure this is also less likely to have issues with water, etc.



I also highly recommend the SDHQ terminals
https://sdhqoffroad.com/products/sd...minal-upgrade-kit?_pos=1&_sid=6d832209c&_ss=r

And braided sleeve for the wiring

$18 100ft - 1/2" PET Expandable Braided Sleeving – BlackBlue – Alex Tech Braided Cable Sleeve

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075Q97CZN

 

Thanks for the additional pic and write-up - I installed the SDHQ mount and terminals already, but great recommendations. Used the 3/8” sides of the battery terminals for the winch - such a perfect product.

After getting the distribution blocks in, I’m just thinking better of it and will solder, loom and stuff it like you did. The blocks may look neat with all the wires and everything, but in the end, it still just looks like a bunch of darn wires, right? Preferences, preferences...

I also bought a Blue Sea 10-post bus terminal for ground wires - total overkill, but going to go ahead and mount that next to the main grounding strap and use it for the plethora of negative leads coming in. Few things more frustrating than chasing down intermittent grounding problems!

 

Dang it! Got too excited and reversed pink and white. Also will redo this with mini fuse taps instead of the micro fuse taps as shown here. One more thing wrong here... see if y’all can spot it!

 

Does anyone have experience wiring backlit light pods through a Switch Pro? I haven’t yet purchased the pods or SP but am trying to determine whether I would be able to control the daytime/backlight on/off functionality of a backlit pod such as the KC Flex 4 using the SP panel. I don’t want the backlights running continually. What do I need to know?

 

Well. This might be the stupidest suggestion, because what I know of this is only through experimentation, but it seems the backlighted switches I’ve seen have two wires for “on”. So run the main to your SP and the light “on” to your headlights that will be on at night....

 

Perfect- that is what I needed to know- that I can wire the backlight to a switch or the ignition.

 

@AlrightAlrightAlright Big thanks for the support! This forum is so crucial to my tudra build. I am so stoked to be learning so much on here, and I will definitely reach out to @memario1214 for a quote.

 

Sorry Colton!

 

One more novice question if I may:

How does SP's light dimming feature function? Is it programmable via the app to preset the switch?