What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Did you cut your cats out cause i am about to but i live in illinois with emmsions so i need something

 

The real test is if you can remove your springs; keep the shocks on and up travel the hub and see if the shock bottoms out before the bump stop (bad), or if the bump stop takes the hit first. I have coilovers, so I pulled them out and measured with a tape, and adjusted my compressed bumps with a little room for error without over limiting shock travel. I've since hit it hard at speed and the bump feels right.
If you can do it with shocks on, that is best.

 

I spy something fast!!!
Driver side done but not complete, motor mounts looked like dog turds, called steeler, will be there tomorrow afternoon; so I just loosely put in place. I’ll prob wait until mounts are back in to do a open header startup to get the driver mount in and out, the oil stick needs to be removed, to remove that, the AC bracket needs to be loosened and jiggled, and the serp belt for that to happen. So I’ll just scoot over to the passenger side, knock it out, start getting my cats and cat back mocked up, probably get more pipe and go make some more bell ends tomorrow morning.




My forearm almost started to bleed until I realized I had some sharp zip tie cut offs digging in every time I went in thru the fender hole, a rag helped my sanity!!! Shit is tight AF on the driver side!
Beer count: zero, and I’m Irish!

 

Today's episode of freebie brake job is sponsered by shiner. Prosit!

some brake pad wiggling didnt help my dragging brakes, so before ordering some overkill, i dug in to get me through the weekend. Questionable at best. So, pads were fresh, but glazed, along with the rotor. Wirebrushed the pads, wirebrush couldnt touch the rotors, but a chunk of broken beltsander 80 grit put some scratches in it. Bled some bubbles out of the front end. About to go on a test run. Passenger side has been hot, but the bearing is fine. Whoever did these brakes put fresh pads on grooved rotors. Also greased the pins and ends if the pads... worked the pistons, cleaned around the seals, sorta brushed all the dust off.

update: big neg. did fine through the neighborhood, but got sticky as soon as they got hot. No trouble from long hill gentle heat. Pitched a fit after a 70mph hard, but not emergency, stop.
Ill take the old trusty titan this weekend. 285k and capable of hwy speeds, but if you ask for more than 40hp or so it starts coughing or bucking. Cracked manifolds and hypermiling nets an average of 22 hwy usually loaded with more than 1000 lbs.


Where do i get some of those porsche carbide rotors? Lolz

 

Here you go: https://sosperformance.com/products...-brake-kit-fits-17-plus-wheels-2005-21-tacoma

If your wallet is extra deep do this while you're at it. https://sosperformance.com/products...sion-with-parking-brake-fits-2000-2006-tundra

 

Has anyone seen the bracket kit that runs 13wl rotors and calipers on the rear of tacos? I found it, but cant find it.

 

If I ever replace mine I'd be tempted to try some of the mounts that Solid offroad makes. OEM ones should last you another 20 years though.

 

Anyone have stock speakers lying around? I installed new speakers in my roommates tacoma and he has his only speakers lying around, and I think the rear ones would fit. Think they are 6 3/4 but not 100%. Also dont know if they would sound better, just thought they would as they are 14 years newer.

Just wanted some measurements so I dont have to take my door panel off.

 

Thanks but I can’t take my coils off. Have coilovers which I installed with the lift it came with out the box...

 

I took mine off (the whole thing) and measured, up travel, wheel off, compressed bumpstops. Measured top hat tower position to lower shock mount center of bolt. Compared that to collapsed shock length (Mfg Listed). Coilovers here as well.

 

I do. Shoot me a message for any specifics.

 

No, I didn't cut my cats out. I figured this would be a cheap solution to that check engine light I've got if it works.

 

Me too!

 

Rained out today. Rested my Inner Chi instead. Fuel Pump can wait.

 

How do you know if these motor mounts are bad?

 

I mean I guess I wouldn’t call them bad, but I also wouldn’t call them good either.... cracks go all the way around, I’m in there, and they are 40$ish a side from steeler over the rotary. I don’t want to pull some of the crap off again that I had to get to these. I took time off just for snafu Kung fu just like this.

 

I drove this beast this weekend



Now I really want to do a straight axle swap

 

I have the same king 2.5” coilovers

 

We are in the same boat If I remember, compressed length is 15.375." I think I had 15.25" of space from the tower to center of bottom shock mount (compressed), so I ended up at 1/4" spacer on top of the back durobump to get a tad over 15.5", and put a non-spaced durobump in the front since I had two sets.

 

Early indications are good on my fouler. Usually within 30 miles it would be pending. Sitting at roughly 45 miles. Time will tell.

I still don't have a solve for this code yet.

 

Yea those are on their way out.
I’ll probably do the poly mounts from solid offroad whenever I do headers.... wee bit more engine vibration will be felt, but much stronger...

 

Thanks for the confirmation, seems like rubber goes real fast here in the desert. I kept thinking of you today while I was rolling and sliding in the dirt; you’d be pushing a lift button up and down........beeeebbbbvreeeerd, start wrenching, ppshhhhhh, climb over the hood.

 

Me too, I think 4 of them i saved for the magnets haha

 

Installed new tires today

 

Both sides are snugged up as tight as I could, I don’t have a cricket torque wrench so we will see how they do!!
Tomorrow mock up cats and cross over to x pipe, go to julios exhaust for more straight possibly, get x pipe expanded, pick up motor mounts from steeler when they show up, do a open header start up( my one neighbor is stoked!)

I don’t know if this is what you call a u joint for sockets? But the tunnel rats, aka the steam boys at work showed us this one day when we made a fool of ourselves trying to change out a 3” butterfly with no tools basically. So I went a picked up a socket set built in and then this single unit, this u joint and big Bertha took all the manifold nuts off with out barking no! 1/2” drive


Lots of interesting angles and use of wobble extensions for a lot of it. I think hand model would learn a new move or two if he ever did his manifolds.




3rd place player of the day goes to the power ratchet recommend by @skywalker474
This helped a lot and saved my arm more than I can imagine!



oil pan safety, closer is better!!


the reducer and Vband end up right before the trans cross member, so hopefully that will flow good with the rest of the hangers and everything else to follow!

 

Somehow I feel if I used an impact gun on my manifold bolts, half of them would snap in half. Glad everything worked out for you @FrenchToasty.

 

Penetrant. Lots of Penetrant.

 

Careful with that type of u joint when using Bertha, the socket can go flying off (and at you)! Some of them have a pin instead of the ball that you have to depress with a small screwdriver in order to release.

 

What? Like soak it once a day for a week before trying?