What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

What are these? I am looking for taller ones than stock. Thanks!

 

Those are DuroBumps.

 

I got snow coming tonight so i dont have the tiregate on but it fit

 

Decided to clean up / remove rust from my skid plate. I started by using a Rustoleum chemical remover but found that grinding / sanding worked just as well.




Then I did the only natural step: paint it gold.

 

For a long time I've wanted disc brakes on the truck, for a number of reasons. I unfortunately had some axle seal/ bearing failures that acted as a catalyst to pull the trigger (nicely timed with some Black Friday sales at least). To make room for a caliper backing plate, you have to cut the drum backing plate or press the drum backing plate off. I went with the latter as I needed to have new bearings, seals, ABS rotors, etc. pressed anyways. I had the machine shop just leave the OEM backing plate off. If you cut the drum backing plate in sections it can be used as a shield for the brake rotor which I didn't really want (can theoretically trap rocks).

I went with the backing plate kit with parking brake from SOS performance and the master cylinder. The install instructions were pretty much useless. The master cylinder is the main part of this upgrade IMO. The parking brake uses a shoe on the inside of the brake rotor like Sequoias and FJ Cruisers. This parking brake system is weaker than the OEM drum parking brake, less surface area. I sourced my own calipers, rotors, pads, and parking brake shoes rather than buy those from SOS, it was cheaper that way. I used the Powerstop caliper/rotor/pad kit meant for Sequoias to match my front Powerstop setup. Another thing I did was have a pair of custom braided stainless steel lines that go from the center of the rear axle to the calipers.

The install and dialing everything in was a bit frustrating at times, but I took my time. I really feel like I have a good understanding of the whole system now. Overall this setup made sense for me, I feel like I'll get good use out of it for years to come. If I was to do it on another truck, I would buy just his backing plate and MC, then source out the stuff in his kit. I would put it down pretty far on your performance mod to-do list personally. I haven't looked for other FGTs with the kit but @empty_lord has one for his Taco and a few other TW peeps run it.

You could also accomplish disc brakes by acquiring a Sequoia rear end and doing some fab work for the suspension mounts - potentially cheaper. I didn't consider this route because my axle housing isn't rusted/ damaged and I know the axle's entire history.

https://sosperformance.com/t/2000-2006-tundra

 

Thanks for the information! I too agree, I will most likely roll with the drums for now as I am trying to revive this thing and trying to spread allocates funds to repairing items that could use the attention.

 

@des2mtn did that new MC mount right up to your existing booster? Care to share a link?

 

https://sosperformance.com/products...er-installation-kit-fits-rear-disc-conversion

Everything mounted right up to the booster except for the bracket for the T-fitting but that's not a big deal (see red); I only secured it on the one side. The face that goes against the booster has two extra holes which I'm assuming is for other vehicles. I'm curious the effect it would have on your mushy pedal situation.

 

I might be missing it, but I don't see the diameter of the MC listed on there. Is it stamped on the on master cylinder? If I can find a larger diameter MC that will bolt up to my booster, I'll buy it.

 

It's stamped. He has a drop down for AC or DC so I'd maybe call him or get the DC one like mine.








OE is stamped 3/4"



Slave cylinder is is stamped 7/8"

 

Anyone ever find a Double Diaphragm Brake Booster thats Plug and Play for our trucks, yet? Everything points in this direction to solve the mushy pedal if you have it.

 

Repainted one of my mirrors today. I'll do the other one soon.

 

Just got off the phone with him. This MC will only work with rear discs. He did confirm my suspicion that my 13/16 MC can't push enough fluid for the 14WA calipers.

 

Yeah, I remember Empty has said the same thing a few times about how it only works with discs. Did he put you in any particular direction for a replacement MC?

 

Unfortunately he did not. I did ask if they sold any MC's that would work but they don't. I'm guessing someone makes one but it might take some digging to find.

I would love it if someone could tell me the diameter of their MC if they have a double cab. I've heard they are bigger.

 

MC on my DC Limited is 3/4 according to the stamp on it.

 

Maybe the problem will be solved if you do a rear disc conversion too

I put a picture of mine above. Someone with an 05-06 should take one too for reference.

 

No we haven’t. I realize this is the 7th time you said this but we’ll ignore you.

 

Well well well. That's actually smaller than mine. The mystery deepens.

 

Why hasn’t anyone told me this before. You guys have been holding back on me.

 

Bingo good sir!

 

Well PHM. You are dumber than a box of rocks. Thats why. Now shooo!

 

I don't think anyone has shared a double diaphragm booster yet that doesn't require modification.

This is the only link that has been shared that I recall. This comment in that thread helped me understand the role between the booster and MC as it relates to our trucks.

"The T-100 booster is a dual diaphragm setup, as opposed to the single diaphragm setup a stock tundra has. Pretty much the dual setup means less pedal input to get the brakes to start engaging. The master cylinder is 1 1/16" and the old tundra MC is 13/16", so its pushing more fluid. All this means better braking . jjc has the same setup on his tundra and he says it stops better than stock. So hopefully I will have the same outcome."

 

This 8” coupled with a GM Master Cylinder?

 

I wonder if Geoffrey Beers would sell you a modded T100 MC that's bolt on.

 

This requires heavy modification?

 

I don't remember the full details, but I think the plunger is longer and needs to be cut down.

 

Yeah. Thats what I remember, too. No way around the mushy brake without lots of work no matter the Booster Type. Need to know your shtuff or at least can fake it till you make it real good.