What home improvement work did you do today?

I can imagine.

 

Terrible layout. Kitchen looks like a maze. Is there at least a pizza at the end?

 

All you think about is @&$ and pizza

 

He'll like this then.

 

Excuse me....I'll be back in a bit

 

He will tear that up and probably send me a video

 

Not if I need to reheat it.

 

Microwaves are for peasants

 

I’m trying to up my game

 

tsss tsss Where you goin? Get some soda or sumptin'
(read it the voice of Chip Chipperson)

 

Thanks, it was a huge improvement from what we had haha! We wanted the farmhouse look but couldn't do it with the sink in the corner.

 

Need some advice fellas.

We are looking to upgrade our refrigerator that came with the house, nothing wrong with it, but its the L/R split Freezer/Fridge, and would like a french door one.

We are going to have an extra fridge now, and it would be great to have some overflow fridge space in the garage. The only thing is i'm not sure how to get a waterline to hook up the ice maker. There is a bathroom on the other side of the garage wall:


I'm wondering if i could just somehow tap the line that feeds the sink faucet (or toilet) and just punch it through the wall. Doesn't seem too difficult, not sure if the wall between the garage/interior is exterior wall or not. There is also a hose bib on the right side of the garage on the exterior of the house (closer to the garage doors). I'm wondering if while i'm at it, how hard it would be to add a sink to the garage as well? Thoughts?

The house is built in 2016 if that matters.

 

Bought some roses yesterday (South Africa, Plum Perfect, Cecile Brunner, Perle D'or, Hot Cocoa, and 2 Quicksilver) and planted them today. Thought I'd re-landscape some areas while I was at it. The week of winter was brutal - I have a lot of work ahead of me.

 

I would cut your hole at the same area the stub outs for the existing sink are located. That way you can add your plumbing for the ice maker line, cold and hot for your new sink. You will need to move the new plumbing into a different bay, unless you don’t mind seeing the ice maker line under your sink. The new sink would sit back to back of your old sink, and the fridge in the corner to the right. If you want to move that sink closer to the right to save space, all the plumbing could be moved two bays over...what’s your plumbing experience?

 

Little more bedroom tile completed today. Sneak peak of the bathroom floor layout.

 

I'm not a licensed plumber, but done some plumbing in the past. Pretty handy.
Not sure what I would do with the drain for future the sink.

 

You may be able to tie into that same drain, but it won’t be up to code. There are charts to make sure it can be done.

 

Same hexagon tile we used for the hall bathroom floor. We're adding a bench in the shower too that will be subway tile and then a solid marble top similar in color to the hexagon going in the shower pan. Closest Floor & Decor only had one bench top and it was broken in half, so I'm having to drive about 40 miles to the next closest store that has one in stock this weekend to pick that up. Thinking about using the same bench top material in the bottom of the niche.

 

awesome. i'll grab one of those.

 

The painters have some caulking and paint to do, but my job here is done. New shower, vanity, and flooring.

 

Fire code requires that your garage and house be separated by a fire wall. Punching a hole in that would require you to properly fire stop it.
Not sure what plumbing code in CA (or specific to your area, as some municipalities have their own), but in most places the shutoff for a fixture has to be within the same room as the fixture. You also want a WHA (water hammer arrestor) on an icemaker line because they use a fast-acting valve for shutoff and that can cause hammer.

If your water heater is right there in the garage, your easiest route would be to come off of the cold water line feeding it, and route the line to behind the fridge. That is, unless you are planning to open up the whole wall in order to add the sink too, in which case you could add an icemaker box off the in-wall water line.

As for adding a sink/drain, that will require opening up your wall to get to the plumbing. You’ll have to tap into the existing drain line and vent lines in the wall, along with branching off the water (hot and cold). Not hard to do at all, but sizing of your drain lines will be the key. The existing Lavatory (bathroom sink) will be a 1-1/4” trap (1 fixture units), but a laundry sink is 1-1/2” (2 fixture units). You’re now looking at adding the two loads together (3 fixture units). As long as the lavatory drain in the wall is 1-1/2” pipe, then you can run 3 fixture units in it (the distance should be short since you are going to be picking up the tub and toilet down under the house and that will be a 3” drain pipe). For vent, the toilet should have a 2” vent coming up until at least 6” above the rim of the lavatory - you can tie the laundry vent into that. In most houses built in 2016, you’re most likely looking at ABS or PVC drain and vent piping, so really easy to work with. The water may be a bit more of a challenge depending on what they used in your area. Likely it is PEX (cross-linked polyethylene), which requires a special tool for making the crimp rings work correctly. It’s not tough to use though, and you could probably rent the tool (if you are wanting to DIY). If you’ve got CPVC, it’s a cut and glue affair, but I haven’t seen that used much in houses since the mid ‘90s. Copper is a bit more work (again, not super common in houses any more due to cost).

Also make sure when you replace the sheetrock you use 5/8” fire rated stuff and match the existing number of layers (if the existing is more than one layer). You also have to mud/tape any seams in all layers, and are supposed to stagger joints in the layers (again, if you have more than one layer) in order to preserve the fire rating.

 

Looking good Paul.

 

Anyone out there with plumbing knowledge that can assist me? We have 2 delta valves installed in the shower. I was looking at using the Delta H2Okinetic In2ition 5-setting two-in-one shower combo (58480-rb25-pk) for the wall and then using a rainfall showerhead Delta (52159-rb25) for overhead.

I would also need to purchase the shower valve trim kits and that is where I'm a bit lost. I like the sound of the Delta TempAssure 17T series where you can adjust both the water flow and the temperature independently. Would this type of trim normally be used for the wall mounted showerhead or the rainfall or both? I want to stick with Delta for the valve trim and it needs to be venetian bronze, but outside of that I'm not sure what would be best suited for my setup. Would I want to control both flow and temp on both showerheads or is that overkill?

Older pic attached, but you can see what I'm working with here.

 

Are both valves independently connected to source? If so, I would go the route of independent temp and flow control. We’ve got that on ours (only one valve) and it’s great. We rarely “adjust” flow - just run it full on. But not having to “feather” the temperature every time you use the shower is really nice.

 

I believe they are independently connected. Here's a better picture I took of the routing before it was covered up if it helps. So you're saying to do 2 of the thermostatic mixing valve trims (one for wall and one for ceiling)? As in 2 of these: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Delta-17-T...u2xN3icUFfSYYklYrb8aAvAxEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds