Suspension lift to high

Hello all,
I have a 2012 CrewMax with 5100's on the lowest setting and a 2.25 inch spacer on top of that. Is this to much lift. Front ground to top of wheel well is 41.25, center of wheel to wheel well is 25.5 on a 275 70 18 tire. The back is 26.25 and 42.5 with a 2 inch block. I replaced a cv after 2500 miles of ownership. Stock uca's. This is my first lifted truck i would like to avoid any future problems.

 

I have been looking on the forum and have not seen anyone using a set up like this. Do spacers act like shims and give roughly double the lift? Thank you all for your help.

 

so i'm a lil confused, but why did you put the 5100s on the lowest setting at about .75" then a 2.25" spacer on top? it seems to be you're making your ride worse and increasing potential for more fail points by "stacking" lifts together. i may be wrong, but it seems the smarter option would be to put the 5100s at the highest setting putting it around almost 2.5" lift. not to mention, the extra expense of parts/labor

 

If you want to avoid future problems remove the spacers. The higher you go the more problems. Stock height is the most reliable to avoid issues.

 

I'm very green when it comes to Lift Knowledge...but I agree. Something doesn't add up in terms of using multiple lifts and blocks.

 

Unfortunately I bought it like this, all I new at the time was that it had a spacer. I didn't even know about ride hight adjustable shocks until after I bought it and started reading on the forum. I had of course heard of bilstien.

 

Gotcha. only thing i can think of is the previous person was attempting to fit wheel/tire setup to prevent rubbing. verify the wheels would fit with the bilsteins at top setting without spacer and see about removing the spacer and get an alignment

 

I agree stock means less problems, I bought it at the time due to mostly it was the cleanest inside and out I could find, little rust and at a price I liked.

 

If I were you, I would remove the spacer and put the shocks at the top setting if you like the height its at now. If you want to keep the current setup I would get aftermarket UCA's as you get closer to 3" of lift you want to think about the geometry. I would also get diff spacers to help realign the drive shaft. These are very cheap

 

So the lowest setting is around .75" of lift, and your space is 2.25", so you're probably sitting at roughly 3" in the front. No problems there, but sort of unconventional the way the PO had it set up. The problem would be if you were on the top setting with the spacer. You probably just replaced the CV due to normal wear and tear / mileage of the vehicle; it is a 2012.

A more conventional set up would be to put the bilstiens on the top setting with a shim on the passenger side and two shims on the driver. This will likely ride better and will provide more travel.

 

Part of my own question was does a spacer act like a shim so .25 shim adds .5 of lift so my 2 inch spacer adds 4 but it sounds like its not the case. Supposedly I have a diff drop

 

Unless you want to replace another, I strongly recommend you take the spacer off and set the 5100's to the highest/second highest setting. Spacers are bad for your suspension geometry. My truck is sitting on 33's at 1.75" lift and doesn't rub at full compression.

 

The standard two point diff drops are pointless IMO. They just pivot the diff and do nothing but allow less oil to reach the pinion bearings. There are pics floating around showing before/after diff drop and you can hardly tell a difference. Just a "filler" for lift kit companies.

 

I'm just here to throw a monkey wrench into the thread! Lmfao, I use a 1 inch spacer on top of a Procomp 6 inch lift.

 

1" spacers are considerably less stressful than +2", also, that lift must correct for some angles over stock to work... right?

 

Yes, its a drop bracket lift. Essentially your 6" lift has had the suspension relocated to be near stock angles at that 6". Adding 1" to that wouldn't be a concern at all considering your frames cross support has been cut and modified to the point that it would be like adding a 1" lift to a stock truck.

 

begs the question how TRD Pros are sold stock with a 2" lift. plenty of guys, myself included, have been driving on modest lifts for years without issue. you're not wrong that angles cause issues but corrections are available, a person just has to do it right.

 

Yes, correct

 

Isn't the lift just on the front? I bet it's cause of the coilovers and the right spring setup.

 

Stacking lifts is not a good thing.

 

Maybe not for you..

 

I like it instead of going down i will go up some more.

 

Thanks all for the help and advice. I am going to drop it to 2 inches or close to it. With only one type of lift and completely delete the spacer and rear lift block. I will add a shackle and change out bushings to see if it will help with bed bounce. Now to go down the rabbit hole of which front and rear components to get.

 

yes, its more or less a level and you're also correct that it uses vehicle specific springs and coilovers... but so do Bilstein 6112's and most of the other reputable coilover options.
i'm no lift expert by any means at all and i know its anecdotal but i'm going through my third toyota vehicle with 3" or under of lift with zero issues. fingers crossed that continues!