What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

No. Find one online and work it. Order/pay online. Pick up at your local participator.

@Tundra2 you can still call your Stealer even if you don’t shop there. The phone works wonders.

 

I call and bother mine all the time and get part numbers and don’t always order from them

 

Yep. Good thing about my Participator is they are close by and the real bonus... parts phone guy is a former mechanic. He shares good info. Only problem with them is Big Boy Mask Wearer Enforcement. Been trying to get him his necessary exercise, but he refuses.

 

I was actually on the phone talking to toy of hoptown.

They can get me lugs tomorrow. Went with all 24. $156. Good call based on these boogered ass threads I found.

Found some more Gnar Gnar on the drivers side.





Looks like someone cross threaded this in the past. Perhaps a thread die? Looks like a second set of threads?

 

Then you are in luck....CVJReman only takes OEM cores....

https://www.cvjreman.com/product-tag/9550/

 

Did you get new..........nuts? Might be a good idea to replace all those while your there

 

No, just studs. While I was pissed off I figured I'd go ahead and do this while I had my tools out.



I won't be able to forget now. Not with that feckin eye sore.

I need to go to bed.

 

No, it's just the official toyota online parts store. But it's only through select dealers.

Parts.toyota.com

 

Did you get the lug nuts to go along with those wheels? I don't think the acorn nuts are the correct style for those you want these ones.

 

Those came with these wheels.

 

I blame this burd this morning for my tink...

https://youtu.be/Hr9K-4zi11Q

 

What springs are you running on your coilovers?

 

anyone know a good flexible brake line kit for the front to delete the hard lines going to the caliper i have new 13wl calipers i am going to put on

 

I happen to have a set if you want them. $40 will take them, shipped.

I got them from Solo Motorsorts long ago and never used them.

 

It does. It's really interesting how that silver sky metallic changes in different lighting.

I had a wheel spacer get loose on me years ago because I didn't recheck the torque or use any thread locker. I ended up murdering a couple rear studs. I replaced them with run of the mill RockAuto ones and they're holding up great. Glad to see you stuck with OEM replacements though!

 

Found out grandpa’s tundra (thundra thighs) already has the 13wl brakes. Sequoia does have a beefier swaybar.
Anyone know if the bright wheel is hypersilver, and the dirty, peeling 17 is dark hyper silver? And whats the color of the ?graphite? Metalflake wheels the tacomas got?

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/painting-wheels-dupli-color-wheel-paint-63124/#&gid=1&pid=2
Post #14



She cleaned up nice, thinking about pulling the steps for the buzzards, i have an old set of the window gutters that lost their glue 3 or 4 years ago i can throw in for trade. Might pull the new set off, too. Id rather grab a roof rail, and when i put the originals on, i was meticulous about them being level and even, and the new set look ‘thrown on’.

 

Upper Ball Joints, mine are exhibiting some play after 19 years and 175,000 miles.

What is involved replacing them?

V8 4X4 if that matters.

Thanks.

 

on my s10 i had to use a ball joint press, like a screw press. Lubed the screw, froze the bj, and ran it in with mostly ugga dugga, and brought it home with a breaker bar. Since mine had failed at speed, i had to replace other things, but might still be a good idea to have a torch around, to help with the final fitment.

Not sure how deep to go into the physics of the system, but sometimes a well aimed whack of a hammer against a blunt punch can keep things straight if they start to go awry.

 

They aren't too bad. Rent a balljoint press from O'reilly's, Advance Auto, etc. You can use it on the castle nut to pop the it out of the control arm. Some people say to throw the new upper BJs in the freezer, but I haven't had any issues pressing them in.

 

I managed to "fix" the DRIVE indicator light. I thought it was burnt out and wasn't too concerned about it, but then it started working after driving on a bumpy dirt/icy road. Hasn't worked since I bought the truck and now it works just fine. I FIXED IT!!

 

Except you’ll ruin your lower BJ doing this. Just free rent a press and get er done. I’m about to do the same once the weather is a bit nicer.

 

I managed to get one out with a mixture of rented tools, but the other one was impossible so I bought the total chaos tool. Wish I had just done that from the beginning. So much easier!

 

I am told that the passenger side upper ball joint has excessive play, and a torn boot. Makes sense because a local shop performed what ended up being unnecessary work on that side years ago. The driver side checks out fine... can / should you replace just the one?

The passenger side steering rack mount bushing also has some play in it, would that cause a steering response that feels a little sluggish?

The new shocks and sway bar end link kits did firm up the front end, it rides smoother.

Here is a look at the passenger side, the shop convinced me the source of a whining sound was coming from a spider gear or bearing in the front passenger side. They were wrong, the sound was coming from the rear end. Anyway, it looks like the current problems are associated with previous work.




Yes, this area was beaten with a heavy blunt object by that same local shop I never went back to.

 

I always prefer to replace things in pairs. 19 years is a good run for those.

 

1) Installed Derale Transmission Temp Control Valve. Heavy Hand Yoga Session.

2) Changed Engine Oil. 3600 short trip winter miles.

3) Drain and Fill 4.5 Quarts Valvoline Dex/Merc in Transmission. Ruby Red.

4) Cleaned Throttle Body. Pretty clean.

5) Changed Spark Plugs (4th and final rotation). Healthy!

6) Suck and Fill Power Steering Rez with Valvoline Dex/Merc. Dark Ruby.

7) Oil Squirt inside front frame box. Final Application.

8) Light Feather Dustings.

 

So I take it you don't worry about too much stress on the spark plug threads with the PHM PM schedule? Makes me nervous.

 

Technically it’s a super low torque value, so it shouldnt get the sphincter to tight. And if he’s changing them more often, the threads are less likely to be ceased

 

Nope. Even confirmed my Hand Model Technique on side of Spark Plug Box with a Torque Wrench recently purchased for my Timing Belt last Fall.

My ‘by Hand Torque Feels’ matched up with the 13lbs. Torque Wrench. I still have the touch.

 

Getting a new tire and rotation. I only get pokies in my shoulders and sidewalls it seems

 

Rear disc rub in pic; nice!