Advice to get front 5100s to go in

Hello all, recently Kcrusher62 was kind enough to give my his 5100s. I was able to get the rear ones on easily, but the fronts are a total PITA. I have tried prying with a 3 foot metal pipe, a crowbar, and using screwdrivers in the socket, but the lower bolt will not go in. I've been trying for 3 days straight now and I honestly don't think I can get them in without pulling the upper ball joint, which I don't have the tools for. Any advice is helpful.

 

The upper upper ball joint won't help, have you removed the 4 bolts on the bottom of the lower ball joint and loosened both sides of the sway bar? If that doesn't work, loosen the alignment bolts on the lower control arm.

I've seen videos of people using a ratcheting strap across both lower control arms, but haven't tried that myself.

 

Damn. Your almost in Hand Model 30 Hours to do a Timing Belt territory.

 

I installed mine by leaving the lower ball joint attached and taking loose the upper ball joint and the sway bar. Then pushing down on the lower control arm. I put the top in first.

 

Yep take the lower ball joint,loosen the LCA cam bolts and sway bar. That frees the whole bottom up I always do it this way less hassle less fight works every time

 

Disconnect the sway bar, and use a ratchet strap from the frame of the truck to pull the shock closer to center, then use a screw driver to help line up the hole so you can insert the bolt. Boom.

 

Mine kicked my ass too, so you will get no shame from me. I started mine when the day was nice and in typical Colorado fashion, it started to snowing and getting cold FAST.

I was out of daylight so I ended using a pry bar, a spring compressor and a couple of helping hands to get that bottom bolt in. It was a royal PITA. I’m not sure if this video will help you but she makes it look easy?

Skip to the five minute mark:
https://youtu.be/2FsDtsY4jnQ

After I got it all put back together, I started searching on how others were doing. Almost all of them said to remove the four LBJ bolts and disconnect the sway bar. Good luck and let’s us know how it goes.

 

I struggled with my first set for a while also. I loosely bolted the strut at the top mount. Then, using the ratchet strap to pull the lower closer to lining up with the hole and using a screwdriver to get the hole lined up worked great. If you have help, a little pry bar action may make it easier, but the lower strut mount will ride up the LCA like a ramp using the ratchet strap and get really close to lining up. Best of luck and let us know how it goes.

 

@empty_lord probably has a magic trick.

 

When I did mine (or held the light as my buddy did the work) “we” used the approach where you leave the spring connected to the truck so as not to use the spring compressors. When we went to put the bottom bolts in we used a jack to controll the lCA height. Still struggled but it wasn’t too terrible.

 

If you are leveling/lifting the front, the sway bar end links are going to give you a headache when it comes time to put things back together. Extended sway bar links should be on your list.

https://suspensionmaxx.com/product/SMX-122270T

 

Did you disconnect the sway bar?


That will hold the lower control arm up...

 

Do this

 

Take your factory jack, turn it upside down and wedge it between the fender and upper control arm.

Shouldn't take a lot, easy enough you can turn the jack by hand.

 

This

 

Thanks for all the replies! I will try again on Wednesday or Thursday and remove those lower ball joint bolts(its supposed to snow tomorrow). I did disconnect the sway bar, and the link broke on me even after pb blaster. As for the extended sway bar links, do you think I could get by for now without them with only a 1.5 inch level? I just bought 2 new stock ones after the originals broke and I would rather not drop the cash for them atm.

 

I didn’t even know theses were a thing until this thread. I’m running my factories with the 5100s set at 2.25
No problems here...

 

I run the offroad package links. They’re a bit longer. I’ve had no issues yet with 2” of front lift

 

This is what I did. May not be "right" but damn it sure was easy.

Once I put the aftermarket Upper control arms on reinstall was a breeze.

 

They most definitely are a thing for First Gens. Which is the forum that you are in.

 

You should be able to get the oem links in there.

It's not easy to get the oem links in with the lift but it's possible. They will fail prematurely due to the added stress and the sway bar will be under load at all times making it feel stiff, less front body roll

 

I didn’t realize that this was a gen 1 forum.... my bad.
Is this applicable to second gen trucks?

 

My lift is slightly different than OPs, but I ran my OEM links until they snapped. Then I tried two different brand links from O'reilly's and they both snapped in under 500 miles. I switched to the extended Suspensionmaxx links and have not had a problem since.

 

I haven't done any front end work on a 2nd gen so I can't say how it's setup

 

Same for me, OEM style and no issues with my 2.5-2.75” lift.

 

Ok, so i have the lower ball joint bolts out, and the cam bolts loosened, still no movement. Do i have to pull this ball joint too?

 

I have installed coilovers many times on first gens and never disconnected the lower ball joint. If you pulled the 4 bolts I would buy replacements for them and use loctite.

Discinnect both ends of the sway bar (you did already)
Loosen the nut on the upper control arm, your upper and lower control arms are both under tension and that is what is fighting you. Loosening the pivot bolt on the top will allow the suspension to relax. Then you pry the lower arm down and push the bolt through. It can help to put the bolt in the opposite way that it was before, this gives easier access to torque it.

If you are by yourself you will have to stand on the pry bar. You can also try the trick using the stock jack to force it down from above.

 

I got everything on, i ended up putting the jack between the fender and uca. Truck rides much better and sits higher in the front. Thanks for all the help guys!