Can’t get an alignment ?!?!

So I put Beilstein 5100s on top setting and +3 shackles last week. Took it to the four-wheel-drive mod shop around here and they could not get it aligned. They said everything was froze up. They said that I needed to replace the lower control arms and eccentric bolts. Of course they have a mechanic shop and offered to give a bid. Before I grow dropping a bunch of money on that I wanted to get some opinions here. Does this sound like accurate information? Or is it And attempt at selling work?

 

This has been discussed on this forum in the past. Someone had frozen lower control arm bolts.

 

Can’t see why they’d need to replace the entire LCA unless the ball joint is bad. Sure it’s not just the bushings? I’d ask for an explanation. Any pics?

 

No, it's legit. Been there, fixed them myself.

If you did the work yourself replacing the lower control arms and eccentric bolts, be prepared to go through several diamond cut sawzall blades with a reciprocating saw to cut through the old ones.

I don't know if you can find new bushings to replace the old ones and have them pressed in place or if buying new LCAs would be easier. I chose the latter route.

 

Get another opinion or find a shop employee who will moonlight it. Unless your truck is terribly rusty underneath, I can't imagine that they are unable to align it.

Some shops will turn down lifted vehicles though...

 

Take it to a commercial truck shop

 

Haven't had to do that to my Tundra (too new), but did have to cut the bolts on my FJ. I found the Milwaukee Torch blade was about the only one that actually worked and wasn't smoking after about 30 seconds. Would recommend grabbing one (or more) of those if anyone does have to cut them out.

 

Same occurred when we upgraded suspension on our 2001 4R. Wouldn’t hold alignment. Bushings were shot. For that vehicle, we got a 2nd opinion: same story— cheaper (more parts, less labour) to replace the LCA’s than to replace the bushings.

 

x2 on the Torch blades. I remember you could get 3 in a pack for $12-15 years back. Now they’re like $15 each (diamond grit) at Home Depot. Still the best blade I found.

 

We replaced struts and nothing was particularly rusty. I’m in the mid west so I more than expected. I think I’m going to have a second opinion soon. As for now I have a positive camber and a bit of a left pull. The text said that it was perfectly safe to drive it would just wear the passenger side tire out quicker on the outer edge. Does this also seem like valid information? I sure appreciate everyone’s input.

 

LCAs aren’t that expensive if you end up having to replace them. Dont get oem. Look at moog. Same as oem but a lot cheaper.

 

I also went with the Moog LCAs for my old truck and wife’s old car. Around $90 per side and the quick install was worth it for me. New bushings and lower ball joints, no rust. Easy decision.
Old truck was a 2005 Nissan Frontier with siezed LCA cam bolts.

 

Probably going up in price due to the booming catalytic converter “recycling” industry as mentioned in several other threads here... heh!

 

I just looked online, the cheapest I see is like $8.99, so it’s not too bad.

 

This happened to me, but I was rebuilding the front end and the stupid lower control arm bushing and adjustment part was stuck. I ended up having to cut everything out. It sucked. I went to toyota and got new bolts and stuff. I'm glad I found it before I took it to the shop. But yes it does happen and it does not matter where you live. I'm in New Mexico and have no rust under my truck and it still did it. It's the one on the front of the control arm that gets stuck, or for me it was.

 

Well good news!
Felt
Like that was a janky deal yesterday with the alignment place. Soaked it in PB Blaster and took it to Big O tires for a second opinion. 20 min later... aligned.
Looks good, drives straight, no pull. Not sure what to say. Looks like the other place was out for an upsell. I hate that it’s so hard to find honest people. Well, big props to the Big O tech.

 

20 minutes? Toe and go baby! Don't speak too soon on finding an honest shop. Did you get a print out of the specs?

Seized suspension bolts that go through bushings is not uncommon, even without road salt. All the adjustment is done with the LCA bolts on the tundra. If they're seized, you need new cam bolts and LCA bushings. Most shops will opt to just change the entire LCA. Most times it's faster, easier to get locally, the lower balljoint is shot anyway, and the price difference is negligible.

 

Ya I got a print out. It’s just within spec but it was soooo far out to begin with I’m just glad it’s where it is. The camber was VISABLY off. I mean it looked like an Icecream cone lol. Squared away now though. Drives straight no pull to speak of and didn’t cost $800. (Way more than I could do in my garage.)

 

PB Blaster is your friend or Kroil.i started spraying mine when I knew I was leveling it and realignment