Truck cranks and then shuts off

2008 5.7lL just had a starter put on a month ago. Well 2 weeks ago it wouldn't crank. It would crank and immediately shut down. After about 3-4 hours later it crank up and run good for a couple of days until it did it again. The second time around, after it decided to crank a few hours later I took to a shop. He checked fuel pump pressure and it showed in the normal range. Only code showing was something about heat/air fan (which was making a terrible noise) He fixed that and kept my truck for 4 days. It cranked or him every time he tried and even drove it home a couple of days. He called and told me to pick it up because he no idea what was going on. He didn't want to put a new fuel pump on until he could assess the problem further and cost us more money and then it not being fuel pump in first place. He's a reputable mechanic and specializes in imports. We've used him off and on for the last 25 years on various vehicles (all Toyotas) so I trust him. Any body have any ideas?

 

I hope someone here can help you with this issue.

 

I had a 4 runner that did the same exact thing. Starter relay was bad. Was very difficult to diagnose.

 

Welcome to Tundras.com from the Texas Hill Country.

Your post is confusing and almost devoid of information because I believe you are misusing the word "crank". If we are to communicate, we need to employ the same terminology. Cranking is what happens when you turn the ignition key fully clockwise, and the vehicle has a functional starter and a good strong battery on board. If the engine "cranks" (turning the crankshaft), and then "starts" (begins to run), it has "started".

When your truck does not "start", describe EXACTLY what happens when you turn the key. Does starter motor turn engine briskly but no start, or turns engine very slowly, or audible clicks only, or nothing happens? There is no other way to diagnose this issue. If the crankshaft turns while the key is turned, but the engine is not starting, then the problem is not the starter.

It could be either fuel system problems or ignition system problems, and the first step any technician should do is determine which is the issue. A single fuel pressure test will only be one step in conclusively testing the fuel system. This is especially true if the problem is intermittent. Late model Tundras have extremely complicated fuel system control. If the truck is equipped with an immobilizer anti-theft system, the chip in the key can die and keep the engine from starting. Try your spare key to confirm the primary key is OK.

This time of year, lower temps kill weak batteries, and weaken strong ones. The first step is to confirm that you have a good strong battery (12.6+V) on board. If your battery has a weak cell, and is headed toward a dead cell, then your answers to the questions above can help us eliminate the battery as the cause.

 

OK. The motor will "start" and then shut down like you would if you cut the car off. Like maybe there was enough gas to "start" but not enough to keep it running. Battery was replaced in November and the lowest temp here in my part of NC has been 29-30 for just a few hours at the most. Ya'll been hogging all the winter time down there in Texas. Hope you faired well. It will stay running for about 2-3 seconds and then it shuts down.

We thought the anti-theft immobilizer was the cause of it not starting in January because it was dead in the water. Toyota dealership said bring it in and they could get another key (for $200.00) but we would have to get it there (another $200.00) and then that might not even have been the problem. So called my mechanic to have him pickup with rollback, and he called wanting to know if it alright to drive because he was at house to pick it up, and it started right up! So that's when he took to shop and put starter on it. Before it wouldn't even start like it does now. It would not even turn the motor like it does now.

I got some info on a guy with a Sequoia,2008, 5.7L 2x4, that was doing the same thing and he replaced ECM and he said he hasn't had a problem since, and he said that was 2 years ago.

 

See post #3 above. Try the starter relay, it is MUCH cheaper alternative and a quicker test than all of the rest of the options. If it doesn't resolve the issue, you'll only be out a few dollars, then look a the other alternatives.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4v1rcISp23Q

 

Try the relays and fuses that @MJoeP suggested and get back to us. There is another ten things that could cause the starting and shutting off behavior, with the most likely being a faulty or dirty MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensor.

 

Every once in a blue moon, my 2007 will start & immediately die. I swap the main black key for my brown valet key & it starts and runs normal. My truck has an active fault code for the immobilizer.