Eaton TrueTrac, or ARB locker ?

This winter I am kitting out my 2000 AC 4.7L 4x4.
This Tuesday, it goes in to ATLR (Local Toyota freaks) for a solid baseline-ing (all fluids, timing belt, water pump, tensioners etc.) and new OME coil overs/rear shocks/AAL. (Hoping for 2.5-3" lift in front and raised rear end to match or give slight rake)

I am wanting to wring a bit more traction out of the old girl. Originally, I planed to install, or have installed, an Eaton TrueTrac LSD. It is the current choice for my needs unless someone will convince me that the ARB air lockers are a better option.

I can see one advantage of the ARB set up is that it truly locks the diff at the flick of a switch and that I can add front locker to the system later, yes?

Otherwise, I like the simplicity of the TrueTrac and the virtual maintenance free, plug and play-ish nature of the LSD. It's said to be the bees knees as it's transparent to the driver until needed.

The thing I like about the ARB set up is the true locking of the rear diff, and the ease with which I can put the rear end into a locked condition. I also don't mind that I can add a front locker (I assume?) to the existing ARB compressor and air system and be able to lock up front and rear. This is a correct assumption, yes?

Based on my proposed use of the truck (50/50 highway/BLM-logging road, NO ROCK CRAWLING.) I'm leaning toward the TrueTrac.

Any opinions to sway me one way or the other? Going to do this in the next month or so.

EDIT to ADD:
Current tires are 265/75r-16. When they wear out the plan is for 255/85r-16's.

Thanks all!

 

Sounds like you have good info on both options and yes, you could add a front locker later with the ARB setup. You could also air down your tires when you get somewhere to do some wheeling and use your fancy compressor to air yourself back up for the trip home if you go the ARB route. Or have a set of air horns. Or air up a mattress for an overnight trip, a floaty etc. Some other potential perks of the ARB setup. If you're not doing any truly hardcore wheeling, a rear locker may be all you need though for slippery situations and the Eaton may be just fine for the job, is very simple to operate (no input needed from you), is always ready to help (with no input from you) and doesn't require the expense of the compressor or the room to mount it and its plumbing.

 

Thanks for this.

In an odd way, this single, simple reply helps quite a bit.

The simplicity of the TrueTrac seems to have won out.

 

Back in 2003 I installed a TRD/Kazuma LSD in my 4x4 2002, it continues to perform flawlessly today.

 

My OEM LSD still works nicely on stick roads. Airing down in light mud does help. Same with sand and snow.

 

I think your on the best route. Stick with the LSD in the rear and if you need more traction down the road you can always add a arb or e-locker in the front.

 

Also food for thought. If you are planning on going bigger tires, regearing while you are in there might be a good idea.

 

Not sure of current costs but last I checked years ago ARB lockers were spendy. Sounds like you don't need a full locker. I drive 100s of miles on forest/logging roads a year and unless their is snow don't hardly ever even need 4wd. My factory LSD seems to do just fine as well.

The compressor would be handy. But for a lot less money and no drain on battery I use a dewalt pump that does all the same things. Pairs nicely with my dewalt chainsaw for firewood and downed logs.

Sounds like you've done your research and will choose what works best for you.

 

I do appreciate the responses folks.

My quandary is the same as most, is the significant cost of the ARB airlocker justified over the simplicity of the TrueTrac?

While I do love the idea of onboard air, and the option of being able to put the front in a locked condition, I could still do that with the Eaton installed in the back. LSD out back, ARB up front.

Question:
Is there a vendor who has packaged everything I would need for an ARB installation together?

I know a compressor is needed, but no clue what else besides the locker itself.

The True Trac more or less just drops right in, correct? I would have to find a diff shop local to me in Wheat Ridge CO. for the install.

Another question, who has an E-locker for our first gen Tundras?

 

I know auburn makes an e-locker for the first gen. I’ve been doing some light research and debating it for a bit. But honestly, I am thinking the LSD is going to be the way I go. Factoring in price, breakdown/repair (nowhere close to service it) and the number of times I used the e-locker in my 4runner; it seems like it won’t get used much.
... But, when I needed it, it was nice to have.

 

I think I'm inclined to agree. Frankly, if I really step back and think all the way through, the TrueTrac is really the way to go for my needs.

I still want to explore an E-locker, but ultimately, the Eaton is how I think I should go.

 

You’ll be good with that set up in Eaton. You aren’t rock crawling and based on your type driving will be good to go. KISS.

 

^^^THIS^^^

Thanks PHM. It's good to get some validation of concept before spraying money I should be saving.

Ultimately, the combo of the deep dive baseline-ing, OME suspension, eventually some taller/narrower tires, and the TrueTrac would turn an already capable truck into a pretty primo all purpose machine.

Thanks again

 

Thank you. Yeah its easy to get caught up in some of this stuff around here. Took me a year of lurking to figure out a few basics. I also read some of the older TS Forums stuff which is helpful on goofy stuff people tried and should be avoided. That in itself is helpful.

 

I did (am doing) the same thing. Coming from an 80 series cruiser, the learning curve has been relatively flat so far. The 1st gen Tundras kept and in some cases improved upon, the brutish simplicity of the TLC concepts. I'm pleased with my choice(s) so far.

 

I'm a little late to this but I have an Eaton TrueTrac and I'm very happy with it. It's less expensive than the air locker but If you're going to re-gear, do it at the same time.

 

Im in the same boat, my 2006 DC with an open differential was a little challenging this last indiana winter, not terrible but I could feel the tyre spinning on a few occasions, thought about the 4WD conversion but I think for simplicity sake the eaton TrueTrac is the way to go, no clutch plates to wear out (in theory) and should increase the smiles per gallon

 

I'm torn on regearing. I am confused by it I think. For example, is it the height of the tire, or width that drives the need to regear in order to maintain performance and alleviate "gear hunting."

 

This is my thinking also. Set and forget, works when I need it, gives me the traction I need. For around a grand installed, feels like a hell of a bang for the buck

 

Yeah thats the kinda price ive seen around here, problem is I want to give the installer the correct parts to make his life easier when installing and me knowing that good parts are used, anybody got an idea what i can give him? bearings etc?

 

It is overwhelming at first but if read a lot about it and Nitro gear just asked questions, They're really helpful.

Do you tow a lot? Are you an Over lander, adding weight to the truck may benefit to re-gear. Since I was getting the locker installed I decided just to gear because I went up in tire size and I tow occasionally.

 

I do tow. But it's a very lightweight Tractor Supply 5x8 utility trailer with a RTT mounted to it. Definitely setting up to being an Overland/Expedition/DD kinda thing.

 

I believe its both height and width which also adds weight.

You should try getting your Transmission Fluid Level properly set first which will eliminate a lot of gear hunting on our A340f transmissions. The dip stick should be at the top tick when engine is hot and driven prior. Engine should be on when checking fluid. My fluid was a little low (prior to me taking over maintenance) and the transmission hunted and slipped. Another thing that may help you are the 12 Hole Injectors which alter the shiftings a little. Make sure your fluid is correct first, though.

This is by no means a substitute for regearing, but does help when your system is optimized first.

 

The rear end ratio and overall tire diameter determines your true final drive ratio. From the factory it is calculated using factory tire size. When you increase the tire diameter by going from a factory 30.6" or so tire and going to a 31" or larger (Most are looking to jump up to near 33" tires) Your changing the final drive ratio. Big tires also weigh more and have greater road and wind resistance. Like on a ten speed bike, by going taller on the tires, you've selected a gear that takes less turns and is harder to pedal. Changing the rear end gears is a way to select an easier gear to pedal, improving acceleration and decreasing the work on the engine. If you have a factory 3.91 rear end gear, going up to 4.30, or 4.88 or larger gears makes it easier to pedal. That means your also pedaling faster. So at 60mph, instead of turning 1700 rpm where the engine is making about 125hp, you'll be turning 2000 or 2200 rpm where the engine is making 175, or 200hp. Now your not downshifting going up every slight incline when towing. Also has an affect on your crawl ratio if you drive in 4lo offroad. Very helpful going up and down steep grades.

 

I agree with this. You can always add a front locker if needed later on. But is there a chance your usage might change? Are you going get the bug to head out to Moab or Imogene pass? If not then the LSD makes a lot of sense to me.

 

All of this Utah adventuring is happening, though I don't do any crawling on technical trails. Log roads and blm land are about it for us.

 

Thanks for this. Very helpful.

 

Thank you for the reply. This helps me quite a bit.