Non JBL speaker upgrade?

Would upgrading speakers make enough difference to justify the cost? I’m not trying to go BOOM BOOM down the road just wanting something a little extra beings how the factory non JBL system leaves a lot to be desired in the audio dept!

 

I want pretty much the same thing. But after reading soooo many posts about upgrading everything I decided to upgrade the head unit first. The stock non-JBL system is something like 14w per channel and most aftermarket stereos are about 20w per channel. The big difference is now I can hear the music with the windows rolled down. Still needs a little more but I'm going to keep tuning it and if I'm not happy I'll go bigger amp, sub(s), and door speakers. Keep in mind that upgrade is about $1000-1500 depending, but also you will do the install.

 

I went with

$280 Alpine ilx-w650 7" Double DIN Touchscreen Digital Multimedia Receiver with Bluetooth, Apple CarPlay and Android Auto

Alpine ilx-w650, and a Crux module , and everything from Crutchfield. Was under $500 and took a few hours to install. Easy

 

The main problem with trying to swap out speakers on the stock system is the stock amp (yes, the non-JBL on most trims has a stock amp under the passenger seat). This amp has a high pass filter in it so the door woofers only get lows and some mids. If you try to throw regular 2/3 ways in there, you’re going to get trash sound. The right way to do it if you want to keep the stock HU is to add a DSP and replace the amp, then you can pretty much throw whatever you want in for speakers. @james@tech12volts has a lot of options that will get you set up with what you need.

 

Concur with the above. Speaker upgrade alone won't fix it.

 

Part of the problem is the stock system uses 6, 4, and 2 ohm speakers to get louder results with less power.
If you replace those with 4 or 8 ohm (better?) speakers, it may sound better, but not be as loud.

As much as you may want to keep your OEM HU, the best way to better audio is ditch the stock Entune and passenger underseat OEM amp.
Replace the HU (using a Idatalink maestro to retain steering wheel controls), amp (I'd suggest a 5 channel), door speakers, and get a sub of some kind.
I disconnected all 3 dash speakers and don't miss them at all..

My Focal PS 165FX front door speakers give a great front stage presence without dash speakers.
Although I did add JBL door sails to my SR5 to mount the Focal tweeters.

You can say you don't need or want a sub, but you will.
Even a self powered JL Audio Stealthbox under the driver's seat will be better than nothing.

There are TONS of threads on audio upgrades on this foum.
I did all mine myself and I'll admit it took a lot of my time.
But it sounds great now.

If I was starting over, I would research @james@tech12volts and look into his Tundra systems.

Taylors Audio – Custom Car Audio

For all your car audio and video needs (tech12volts.com)

 

Thanks for the info guys!

 

This. Many members here have debated with themselves about the exact same issue that you are. Some go the "keep the OEM H/U, add DSP, amp and new speakers; some gut the entire system; some try adding a new component (to the OEM setup) here or there, and they are ALWAYS disappointed. I love my truck, but Toyota dropped the ball big time with this crap system in a $50k truck. I took about 3 months to piece together my new system, before completely gutting the OEM crap. Don't go piecemeal on your very expensive truck. Save your $$ and put together a system that you will be excited about every time you climb into the cockpit. And we will be here to help you along the way. Your Tundra is worth it.

 

I agree with this. And I'll say that if you're wanting to do this in stages, start with a good HU, as you'll see a decent bump in sound on the stock speakers, though it still won't be great. But that may be enough for you. Then you can decide if you want to replace the speakers down the road (hint: you will...).

 

What functions did you lose over stock?

 

I did my upgrade in stages due to time constraints.
Did the doors first with dynamat and new speakers.

Sounded like ass with aftermarket speakers and the stock amp and head unit. It had less volume than stock.

Thankfully I didn’t leave it that way long

 

Because the stock amp has a high pass filter and stock door speakers are 2 ohm...

 

I just upgraded the amp and added a LOC. Still running stock HU and door speakers with a used sub and mine sounds great.
Did it with the long distance assistance from 1lowlife

 

I'm happier with my

$290 Alpine KTP-445u Universal Power Pack

Alpine KTP-445u installed. Found it for $150 there are some threads on here that discuss it and even have the wiring model and adapter suggestions spelled out.
Its NOT a competition system, but it is much improved.

(edit: to clarify, this is an amp that replaces your factory amp under the passenger seat)

 

nothing. gained CarPlay, with USB attached (like this better than wireless CarPlay), no longer have a CD Player, steering wheel controls (SWC) work as they are supposed to. The Alpine mic that is supplied actually is much better than the stock mic and you can no longer use the stock mic with aftermarket HU, so I mounted it temporarily in the blank switch next to the Tow/Haul button. It was close and I wasn't in the mindset to remove the headliner to mount it in the OEM spot by the overhead sunglasses case.

 

Yea I know I was just letting OP know what to expect.

 

As to what you may gain or lose with an aftermarket HU and amp....
I have a 2014, I think the 2020 use the stock Entune for more than my 2014 did, so keep that in mind.
Also the newer models use the combination screen more than my 2014..

A decent aftermarket HU will have;
22 RMS or so watts output at speaker level outputs
3 pair of RCA outputs (front, rear and sub) OR (highs, mids, and lows) see below.
2 way or 3 way speaker/amp setup
13 band EQ with several memory saves
time alignment
SUB levels
Loudness, bass boost, and other special effects you really don't need if you tune it correctly.
Well, maybe loudness at low levels..
Idatalink Maestro or other SW control input
2 USB inputs; 1 for Carplay/Android, the other for USB thumb drive or charging
Optional Sirius/XM with an external SiriusXM SXV300 tuner: but honestly Sirius/XM sounds better off the app on your phone running thru wireless Carplay/Android, or a USB input.
Wireless Carplay or Android

I like Kenwood and Pioneer.
I've had both in my 2014.
Pioneer has a slight touch screen lag and a cartoon like menu, so I prefer the Kenwood.

A decent after market (I like 5 channel) amp will have;
separate gains for channels 1/2 (front or high), 3/4 (rears or mids) and the 5th channel (sub or lows).
Separate crossovers for channels 1/2, 3/4, and 5.
A standard or optional bass knob, that I and many here will say is a must.
Some will have speaker level inputs that eliminate running RCA cables from the HU to the amp.
I'll tell ya, there ain't a lot of room to run RCAs, but it can surely be done.

Only thing I lost with my Kenwood HU and Maestro was the ability to scroll thru XM preset channels using the XM tuner.
But since using the phone app I don't ever use my SiriusXM SXV300 tuner.
I only keep it in case I'm traveling and lose a cellular signal.

And you'll need to run a microphone for Bluetooth.
I mounted my Bluetooth mic close to my rear view mirror.
Works perfectly..