What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

old the rear seats down.


Remove the plastic panel behind the seats on the back of the cab.
There's a black metal plate on the back of cab held on with 10mm screws.

The connector is on the passenger side about 6 inches from the window motor.
I just unplugged it. Then tested the window to see if it rolled up.
Now it rolls up all the way, no more stopping halfway.

 

If it makes any difference I have run AGM batteries for maybe 9 years. First one lasted 6 years and may have lasted longer if I hadn't left my truck parked for months at a time near the end.

 

I can't recommend this enough. It's cheaper than a good battery and it's repair mode has resurrected dead batteries for me before that could not be saved by jumping and then simply driving the vehicle. I especially recommend if for someone like you who has multiple vehicles and lives in a cold winter climate with vehicles that may sit idle for awhile. I'd buy pigtails for each vehicle and rotate it weekly on the ones you don't drive much.

https://no.co/genius10

This is the pigtail...just need to replace the 10A fuse with a 15A.

https://no.co/gc008

 

I've always ran a trickle charger on my motorcycle, I keep meaning to add one to my battery.

 

I just read this the other day about a few folks having issues with their X2 batteries around the 2 year mark.
https://www.tundras.com/threads/i-g...dmessin-wintertime-battery-issue-blues.80806/

 

Do you mean the big black plate 2ft by 3ft? There are about 10 10mm bolts in it.

 

Yes

 

I run a nuco single bank charger/maintainer on the 4runner with a X2; it lasted about 4.86 years in one of the hottest climates. I need to be better about plugging it in more often

 

https://www.hkbelect.com/product/24...nic-fuse-version-micro-blade-compatible-2015/

 

Yeah that bad boy

 

Personally I want a Sears diehard platinum... but those don’t exist anymore. Higher end AGM need higher voltage to charge properly. That’s easily addressed with a diode fuse. If you don’t charge them properly the life of them is low

 

I’m going on 9 years with my diehard platinum. Never on a tender. But the alternator in both cars it’s been in has the voltage boosted with a GM diode in the alt s fuse

 

Sounds interesting...any links to explain this electronics wizardy?

 

More reading for you: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/the-northstar-agm-battery-voltage-booster-upgrade.604478/

 

I have not watched this yet:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h7rTcBanpMk

 

That is what I had before. When I replaced it they no longer had a platinum but they had a diehard gold AGM with a little more CCA. It has been good so far.

 

AGM is all I buy anymore. The platinum was a rebranded Odyssey. Fantastic battery.

 

I have the same experience with this charger at work and the Optima version of it personally. I am amazed aome of the dead batteries ive brought back after sitting literal years with no charge.

 

I’ve set my Super Duper Decoder Ring on Wifi Mode. This sends an Organic Ion Charge which keeps my Bosch Battery Fresh even when sitting inside the house. If the battery dies at useful life which is always 3 years and one day I take it up to the store for a free new one. Bosch for life.

 

I'll be honest I go in and but whatever middle range battery is at whatever store happens to be closest. 22 years driving and I've had exactly 1 that's needed jumped.

Usually the first time it cranks slow I'll get it tested and usually it needs replaced.

The Durango has an AGM in it from the factory it'll get replaced with one since it's under the passenger seat but it's also they original at 10 years old. I'm hoping it'll go to 200k and at that point I'm seeking it anyway lol.

 

Finished bleeding the brakes today. I can say that the 10m drum bleeders suck! The threads are suuuuuuuper loose and fluid leaks everywhere. I might try this weekend to pull those rear bleeders and add a thread sealant and rebleed everything. The smaller 7m bleeders worked great when just cracked. I’ve never done brakes before so it was concerning how long it took to get fluid to come out the rear passenger.
I put one whole can of fluid into/thru the truck, and have another for upcoming bleeds.
Upon test driving; I wasn’t super impressed nor was I super disappointed. I did some reverse action stops, ebrake holds in D and R. I then found the one dirt road near me(which I then saw my buddy that my son likes calling raven, walking his dog down) and did some abs actuating skids.
I then got home and cleaned up my mess, and my broken jack wood; remember to check your load before you work fellas, when I set her down I herd them creaking, gave her a nudge and she dropped! Thankfully I wasn’t underneath! (I thought I took a pic but I didn’t; worthless)
After cleanup I popped the adjuster covers and gave each side 5 clicks or so; started her up and gave a few test pumps in the driveway: mucho better!
I’ll drive it the rest of the week and let the mojo sink in and then circle back this weekend

 

With all this talk of batteries, I wonder how fast an EV takes to warm up (interior) in sub-freezing temps.

If I run out of charge sitting in traffic keeping warm, do I need to walk to a drug store and pick up some D batteries to get me home?

 

You are making sense. Please stop.

 

Felt out the Mojo on the Valve Fitment today. Looking good on a loose dry fit. Things will be square and tight on the final run. Anti-Vibration Rubber Washers will be added for the ultimate touch.

 

I went ahead and purchased one of these yesterday. It'll be a few weeks before it gets here but sounds like a smart investment.

The proper metric fittings for my rear brake lines came in yesterday so I put those on, bled my brakes again and topped off with Bosch 5.1. Everything seems to be tight and proper now with no leaks. I will take it for a drive after work and this will be my first real test of the rear discs. I also changed my oil and shot some grease into my chassis and SPCs. Happy truck.

 

I’m half tempted to get a pump to make things easier next time

 

I purchased a vacuum bleeder to do it this time and it worked surprisingly well once I figured it out. Way easier than bleeding with two people. I could probably figure out how to use it as a siphon for other jobs if I wanted.

 

I had zero luck with my Mityvac vacuum bleeder I bought. As soon as I crack open the bleeder valve it loses vacuum. May try again with some different fittings. None that came with it worked.

 

What's the point of the vacuum?

I just keep mine simple.
https://youtu.be/ag-Q_lP0dOk
I wished I'd kept the videos I made of all the air that was in my system after a total drain when I did my Wheelers stainless lines.

I remember hooking up their system, setting up my phone to look at the bottle, and I watched the video feed live on my "fart" watch so I'd know when all the air was out.

There was some funky gunk that I was getting out, but I was running out of clean fluid to flush through plus I was cold.