Gen 1 Old Man Emu kit just installed.

Hi everyone,

2001 Tundra access cab 4X4 V8...

I just bought an Old Man Emu 2.5" lift kit.

The front struts are going to be delivered disassembled. I wanted it this way to save a little $$. I notice the kit does not come with the strut stem bushings or top hat. I can't imagine why they would do this for the life of me.

I have scoured the internet today searching for a simple bushing kit, but I am coming up short.

Does anyone know where I can buy these? I would think Bilstein or OME would have them, but no luck.

I really want to replace them because I have done a strut job on a Tacoma and reused the bushings, and it did not turn out well. I was left with a terrible clunking sound in the front end when I went through dips in the road or over speed bumps.

Any suggestions?

Also, did I make a good decision on a lift? My struts are destroyed. The shock mount bolts have settled through the rubber shock mounts and they are resting on the metal hoop of the strut.

I just decided to lift it a couple inches so I can use v-bar tire chains without tearing anything up. I don't off-road at all, unless I have to. Is the ride going to be terribly stiff? I know it won't be like stock, but I am hoping I didn't make a mistake.

Edit: I did buy a 1" diff drop kit to protect my CV's.

Thanks all.

 

They used to be cheaper but I believe you need the isolator kit and the top hat kit.

 

RockAuto has a number to choose from.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/toyota,2005,tundra,4.7l+v8,1431003,suspension,strut+mount,7600

 

Something to consider. When I added the OME 885 springs to my truck I had to use TACOMA upper mounts. The inner rubber on the Tundra mounts was too thick to fit into the spring. That was using KYB mounts, not sure if it's the same for others.

 

Toytec

 

Are the 885's a lot stiffer? I was really hoping my ride would not get too much stiffer. I have a brush guard, so that may factor into it. I also have a camper shell (topper).

 

Mine had monroe quick struts on it when I bought it. It's quite a bit firmer than those but it's not harsh by any means.

 

Thanks for the heads-up. What year of Tacoma did you have to purchase these for? I see that the kit can be used on 2005+ Tacomas, I assume I should purchase those mounts and isolators?

Kit came in yesterday, it came with all the stem bushings and even the U-bolts. Pretty impressed so far.

Thanks for all the feedback guys.

 

I'll post some pictures when I finish, before and after, if anyone is interested. Can't wait to tear into it.

 

I want to say 05 sounds correct. I just went to the parts store and they pulled some for me to check the size.

 

Exact same for me, OME was stiffer, but in a good way.

If you're old shocks are in good shape, you can reuse the top hat and get a narrower isolator.

https://www.1stgenoffroad.com/store/p256/TundraCoilSpringIsolatorSetTundraSequoia.html#/

If you need new top hats

$31 KYB SM5442 - Mount and Insulator

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000PWW7RM/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_6?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

 

KYB's from Rock Auto

 

Thread revival.

I just installed my 2.5/1.5 old man emu kit. Looks okay, went on easily despite having to assemble the front strut assemblies. It looks likes it has a mild "cali lean", but my tape measure says my eyes are lying. I'll leave it alone.

Off to the alignment shop... Here we go.

I have been told that the cam bolt are notorious for seizing in-place making alignment not possible. I'll just assume this is going to be the case for me, although my 20 year old truck is rust free. The shop I took my truck to lifts trucks regularly, hopefully the guy knows what he is doing.

Do you guys have any recommendations as far as alignment specs, or should I just let the mechanic work his magic? Also, if I do have to get new cam bolts, any ideas what a fair price would be for them to install them?

I'll post a pic later today for anyone who cares to look.

 

Dj's alignment specs below.

The problem with install of the cam bolts is that they have to be cut out then you'll need new cams, control arm bushings and maybe control arms. Usually takes a few hours plus parts.

Soak them in penetrating oil before you take it to the shop and that might help.

 

Good to know! Not what I wanted to hear about the LCA's exactly, but I need to know what to prepare for mentally ($), so this is good information. I'll douse them with PB Blaster and cross my fingers. Thanks rock climber.

 

Keep in mind that for about $550 you can source new control arms, lower ball joints, and alignment cams.

Depending on their labor rate it may make sense to replace it all.

 

Absolutely. I am going to get multiple quotes before I commit. I will likely change out every part I can and let them do the fine tuning. I can change the parts, I just can't do the alignment. I told the shop to leave it in drivable condition, should they find any issues with it.

Depending on the news I get, I will change the upper and lower ball joints as well as the bushings but I will see. Thanks Festerw!

 

Well I got my truck aligned, allegedly. They were able to align it without replacing the cam bolts which is good... assuming it was done.

I looked underneath, I really can't see any tell-tale marks on any of the bolts. They claim they adjusted the toe, a lot, but I don't see any marks on the tie rod end nuts. Things really got bizarre when they said they couldn't find the measurement sheet.

Eventually they produced one which indicated no camber adjustment which is extremely hard for me to believe because I could visually see a lot of positive camber.

To top that off, there was a 2006 Tundra, same color, leveling kit (same height), same camper shell on the alignment rack. I think they took the specs from that one and gave them to me.

At the end of it all, they tried to hit me with a 12 dollar hazmat fee which I told them I was not going to pay. They waived it.

Does this sound right to any of you? My gut feeling tells me "hell no!". Before I go back and raise my concerns, and possibly my voice, I want to make sure I am correct.

Fact check me anyone?

 

That does sound a bit fishy. How does it drive?

Some places like Midas will offer a free alignment check, you could try one of those and see what it's at.

 

I live in a very small town unfortunately, nothing is free here because they know they can soak everyone. I'm going to take it back and watch this time. I can't believe these people. At the very least, they were sloppy and disorganized.

I'll post some pics of what I am seeing.

 

Quick and dirty on the toe would be to take a measurement from the center tread to center tread on the front of the tires and then again at the back.

Measurement should be 1/8-1/4" narrower in the front.

 

I always do the inside of the tread. It's literally all I've done on my truck since doing my suspension almost two years ago. Not sure if it was my tundra or my ranger, but both have my suspension and have been aligned by me. Anyways my buddy throws one of them on the rack and says "holy... Your toe is dead on". Tape measure and angle gauge can align suspension alright.

 

I didn’t read the whole thread, my bad, but it seemed to turn from suspension parts to alignment. My experience and reading has been. TC uppers over Camburg. I haven’t read one post where TC had issues, I’m sure they are there. A lot of Camburg owners seem to struggle. At least those are the posts I’ve seen. For alignment, any lift or arms, I went with the advice if a shop that is good with aftermarket and has a Hunter alignment rack. I found one and talked to the tech about my setup and what I had learned (numbers). He stood it up and said you are almost perfect. I was surprised because with my new setup, it didn’t feel that way. He did his thing and the .10ths were minor. And the truck drives perfect now. So, good techs and good alignment, IMO. And if they aren’t willing to talk to you, Leave.

 

I ended up giving up on my lift. I removed it and put all stock components back on it... tie rod ends, ball joints, sway bar bushings. Got it aligned, it feels like it just rolled off the lot now.

I was experiencing vibrations, very lousy handling and CV joint boots leaking consistently (despite my diff drop). I am confident it was not the kit directly causing the issues, rather the condition of my truck after 20 years on the road.

If anyone in New Mexico or nearby wants my OME components, I will cut someone a good deal. I never off-roaded with the components and I didn't mangle anything during installation or removal. PM me if you interested.

 

What does the lift consist of, or a link showing the kit?

 

I am trying to piecemeal an ARB OME suspension kit together and wanted to know if anyone is having the same trouble finding parts for 1st gen Tundra. I currently have Bilstein 5100s and they are tired and OME is what I have heard has a stiffer ride; better. I'm looking at ARB OME 90004 (front struts) and ARB OME 60091 (rear) and all of the 4wheel inventories say "doesn't fit". All the sites are referring this setup to a Tacoma. I need to pull the trigger on the rear setup asap before I drive some long washboard roads in a month. Advice on this?

 

Go to 1st Gen Off-road. I got an OME 2.5" lift for $800 give or take a few bucks. It came with your choice of springs and they can assemble them for you for a few extra $$.

This is the only pic I have of it at the moment, but I'll get more in the next day or so

 

How are you liking that lift so far

 

I'm really liking it. It's a firm ride without being overly harsh or stiff. I used to hit the bump stops in the front whenever I hit a speed bump too fast with the old suspension, but I haven't come close to that with the OME setup.