Lighting Question

Hello all

I recently inherited my brothers truck, unfortunately, he passed away he hadn’t driven it in sometime and many of the interior bulbs needed to be changed out. Thanks to this site I was able to figure out which bulb numbers I needed but I’m having trouble figuring out the bulb number for the gear selection inside my gauge cluster. My “P”(Park) light is burnt out. I went to my local dealer and they gave me their stock number but that doesn’t really help me much, they told me they are on back order and they’re not sure when they would get one in. I believe most of the cluster takes the 194 or 194LL bulb but the bulbs for the gear selection seem to be much smaller. Additionally, I would like to convert all my interior bulbs to LED. Can anyone help me out with bulb numbers and maybe some recommendations on LED replacements?

 

I believe they’re 194 bulbs, but you should double check. I haven’t replaced mine for 10 years and when they blow, I typically just swap with an unused one like low gear.

 

I'm sorry that you have lost your brother. I hope the truck brings back good memories and serves you well.

I'd check with the guys in here. https://www.tundras.com/threads/1st-gen-lunch-table-general-discussion.60450/ I know they're very good with the first gen Tundras.

 

I'm sorry for your loss.. welcome.

The "PRND2L O/D" Lights can be replaced with neowedge 4mm leds.

Link. You'll need to select "4mm" on the website for the PRND2L O/D lights. If you have the foglight button on the left side of the dash. That light can be replaced with a "3mm" of the same link.

Leds are polarity sensitive which means they may not work if you have them in backwards. You'll need to test for proper lighting before putting your dash back together. If they don't work pull them out, and spin the buld 180°. Put'er back in. Test again.

There are some indicator lights that cannot be replaced. Heres a quote from my build thread

 

Thank you for the condolences and replies. I’m looking into the LED bulbs now. I have changed the climate controls, door, Map and Dome light bulbs out with the Sylvania Silverstar bulbs, but they still seem pretty dim. I’ll attach a picture.

 

The LEDs I have for the doors, dome lights, license plate lights, cargo light, and bigger climate lights for the knobs are T10.

$10 Yorkim 194 LED Bulbs Amber Super Bright 5th Generation, T10 168 LED Bulb, W5W Bulbs for Car Interior Dome Map Door Courtesy License Plate Lights W5W 2825, Pack of 10

https://www.amazon.com/Yorkim-Brigh...8&sr=1-1-38d0a374-3318-4625-ad92-b6761a63ecf6

The smaller lights behind the 4WD buttons and such around the climate control knobs are T5. I also used some of these on my gauge cluster lights I can't remember if there are any of the bigger bulbs back there too.

$8 WLJH 6 Pack T5 LED Bulb Yellow 74 73 17 2721 Canbus Error Free 3-SMD 3030 LED Gauge Cluster Dashboard Indicator Light Bulbs,Plug and Play

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0798Q4RRC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have this in the center dome light in the back seat.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0142WSTJA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

Dug around in my files. The pink is all T5 (75?) stuff. The light blue circles is T10 (194)

Green is your neowedge 4mm

You'll want to coat the top of the T5s with something that won't let light through otherwise they'll be way too bright. The two diodes on the side should be sufficient. They are for me.


See how bright the 80-90 range is when compared to everything else? That can be mended with JB weld on the end of the T5.


Here's the finished up, finalized product.


To clarify what I meant in my earlier post by stating that some can't be replaced.

They all can be replaced, but the battery light, airbag light, low fuel light, and check engine light have to be incandescent (halogen.)

Some act as resistor to complete the circuit, and some will shine dimly even when the light is "off."

Something like this.

$12 Eiko - 86 Mini Indicator Lamp - 6.3 Volt - 0.2 Amp - T1.75 Bulb - Sub-Miniature Wedge Base - 10 Pack

Link.

 

This is so incredibly helpful!!! Thank you so much!
I have never used JB Weld, is it easy to work with?

 

Here I was about to start guessing from memory how many lights are back there.

 

My brain went there too

 

Jb weld is easy to use. Honestly, it's a little overkill for this application but I used it because I know it's good stuff. (Also, free to me through work.) I suppose you could use tape if you wanted.

Here's a video that goes over the basics. I think a pack of both tubes like he has in the video is roughly $5-8.

https://youtu.be/vRNPNju4ZjU

 

This should be a sticky

 

It is a sticky somewhere I think? Let me check the info dump.

 

Here's a sticky.

DIY: Replacing climate control lighting

 

I wouldn't mind learning how to use it...as another option, would electrical tape be recommended?

 

It would work. If you could find LEDS that didn't have a top diode that would be the easiest thing.

 

You could also use toyota fipg or black permatex silicone.

Or de-solder the top led.

 

I tried this. I wouldn't try it again. Jb weld, tape, or different diode is easiest route.

 

I got a lighting question too.
I have a 2006 DC and the buttons on the left side of the steering wheel, the ones for the side mirrors and back window. Do they light up like all the other lights on your dash when you turn on head lights?
I don't remember if they ever did. Can someone confirm?

Also, reading this thread, what are the steps to take the dash apart to get behind the instrument panel?

 

https://youtu.be/ETHNS5BK_Co

 

I like this guy. I watched some of his videos about SPC UCAs and his aftermarket spindles.

His overdrive button is mucho different than any I've ever seen.

 

Page 3 might help you out a bit. I used Sylvania LED as much as possible (lifetime warranty) and the odd LED are T-5 from Partsham that come in multiple colors bought online.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/the...nt-‘build’-a-chronological-story.46816/page-3

 

@Tundra2 , how do you get the instrument panel to turn on all the lights? Is that key-in, ignition switch on and good timing with the hazards or is there a test function to light it up like a Christmas tree?



Great informations. Thanks.

 

Ignition on should get you all your warning lights.

Good timing on the photo with hazards on. Real tedious unless you can take a "burst shot" and then select the decent picture.

Edit: there's no real "need" on getting a picture of them all on. I just wanted to do so, so I did.

As long as they work for you, that's all that really matters.

 

Thanks for all the lighting tips.

I spent some quality time with my instrument lighting yesterday and discovered that the door ajar, Brake, 4WD and 4WD Low idiot lights don't light up with the key-in, ignition on. The need to be activated by to door being open, parking brake on, etc.

2003 SR5.

I'm so skeptical typing this that I'll check again.

 

I forgot about those lights. Whoops.

Someone else will have to help with the 4WD lights as I'm two wheel peel.

That is, if those lights are strange like the battery light, and what not.

 

I went out and confirmed some lights need to be activated in addition to the key being on. I was skeptical because in the olden days switching the ignition on would light up all the idiot lights...but in the olden days there were just a few of them, oil, alt, etc, heck, my olden days go back before there were Check Engine Lights ).

 

So everything works, and is good now?

 

Everything works. I'm using a mix of LEDs and incandescents. LEDs (green) for general gauge lighting and indicators that I want to be bright (batt., 4WD and Lo), incandescents for indicators like cruise that I don't want to be very bright.

 

The battery light goes completely off on your truck with led?

Mine stayed dimly lit with the lights off, or truck off. I could still see it lit which is why that one has incandescent now. It got annoying after awhile of driving at night and my peripheral vision giving me a false "battery light" every time I turned my head

Congrats on a successful job. You should start a build thread if you want to keep a log of everything you've done to the truck.