Trans. Cooler install

So, I am going to install a external trans oil cooler for heavy towing and I am having some thoughts about using two hoses inside a clear sleave full length to cut down significantly on the quantity of hose to steel tubing connections or potential leak points. What would you do? I mean going from 8 to 4 potential leak points kinda makes sense if you can keep the lines protected right? To minimize thermal transfer I will use two independant sleeves and clamp them down over the run to minimize any possible rubbing abrasion. That or the oem lines?? Any ideas, opinions, or suggestions will be much appreciated!

 

Why not just do what everyone is is doing. Also I'm sure Toyota went with hard lines for a reason.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/tundra-transmission-cooler-kit.60550/#post-1587166

 

I just stated why not...to minimize the potential leak points.

 

It was discussed by some in that thread and I believe one person did go that route. Nick himself did actually install his with just hose at first but then changed to the factory lines. Ask him why he changed?

 

Cool! Much appreciated!

 

I would not alter an install like that. Many of us have kits from @chasenicholas93 that work very well and they are highly recommended.

 

You know sometimes you have to wonder if the oem design is meant to increase parts sales. As with everything follow the money!

 

Curious...What kind of "clear sleave" are you envisioning? Are you thinking of protecting the fluid hose with 1" PVC tubing?

 

Actually, I decided I would be better off to use a 3/4" heater hose split lengthwise in about 12" sections and then apply it around the oil line and secure with hd black cable ties. Might even not cover where not applicable to maximize cooling efficiency.

 

I would have to say since the cooler system isn't really under much pressure to speak of, the chance of any leaks at the clamps is very low.

I bought the kit from @chasenicholas93, and after the install wouldn't even consider not using the OEM hard lines. Just my opinion, YMMV.

 

Very true. And, if a clamp is installed properly (past the barb), there won't be ANY leaks if the hose ID is properly sized (10mm or 3/8") because the hose end won't move. Even if you're trying to pull it off, with the clamp in position, it will not come off. You may have to pull the hose itself apart to get it off with the clamp installed.

But, if the rubber hose gets exposed to heat, deteriorates, and the hose breaks, then it's not a leak, it's a "gusher". His transmission will be completely drained in a couple of minutes. Those Toyota engineers, they come up with the strangest ideas to run up parts cost and make their product uncompetitive.

Nah, an engineer wouldn't worry about maximizing the cooling efficiency of the rubber hoses. Those Toyota engineers know that rubber will conduct heat, but it's a piss-poor conductor of heat. Rubber has better properties as an insulator. Cutting your protective hose into 12" sections and slitting them lengthwise will make them easier to zip tie over the fluid hose...but you can't claim any credit for improving cooling efficiency by leaving them off.

Are you going to install this protective hose over the fluid hose before or after the fluid hoses are installed? You might want to install the sections on the hoses BEFORE you install the assemblies. Once you've gotten under the truck and actually looked at where the hoses need to go (assumes you'll run them where the engineers routed the steel lines) you'll find it will be impossible to install the protective sections in the area that gets the hottest; i.e. parallel to the exhaust manifold. Of course, you could route the flexible hoses up and over the front suspension and then down to the front.

So many details with potentially calamitous effects; being an engineer is HARD! "Fools rush in where angels fear to tread". At least you're not worried about the potential impact of this project on your warranty.

 

I brought a 25 foot roll of hose and I routed my cooler hoses up through the engine compartment. Hoses were run over the right fender well, around the air filter to the firewall, and routed down the back of the motor to the top of the transmission. The hoses are away from all hot spots and no chance of getting damage.

 

The other "hottest spot" is right at the transmission thermostat where rubber hoses are closest to the turn in the exhaust pipe. You might want to give your truck a good long run, then get under and feel the hoses in that area around where your hoses connect to the transmission thermostat. The 4.6L rubber connection hoses (2013 and earlier) have no insulation, but the thermostat/warmer configuration and location is slightly different on the 4.6L transmission.

Toyota engineers worried enough about the heat around the 5.7L exhaust pipe that they provided insulation for the short connection hoses to the steel lines. When you buy the connection hoses as replacement parts, the insulation comes on them, but that's probably just another un-necessary expense to drive up parts cost for the customer.

 

Just fyi, if the engineers you speak of were actually doing their best for the consumer the cooler would have been installed at the factory and we consumers wouldn't be having to deal with it at all!

 

I know some here want to use the argument that engineers made that decision, but it's impossible for real engineers to have made that decision.

It is likely that real engineers finally acquiesced after being told how this was going down. It's highly unlikely real engineers made the decision without campaigning vigorously to replace the cooling capacity. The engineering mindset is NOT: "Let's see how far this **** can go to save $$$". That mindset is from another department.

 

My first install I routed hoses directly from the thermostat to the cooler utilizing thermal hose protection and hose clamps along the frame. I was confident I wouldn't have any issues however, once I figured out the 2019+ Tundra's fit all the genuine Toyota plumbing to the cooler, I decided to go towards a factory/clean setup. Below is a photo of the hoses along the frame during my first install almost a year ago.

 

Not bad. No interference of hoses to UCA at the bottom of travel?

Edit: On closer exam, it appears the hoses are almost directly below the UCA bushings. No mechanical interference problems.

 

Nope, it ran on the top/back of the frame and I secured them by placing rivets in the factory holes to be secured by a bolt and a hose clamps.

 

Thanks for confirming your logic, I suspect many have the same reasoning. Personally, I have to wait and see what happens with toyota and the dealer first because I am trying really hard to persuade them to buy and install my cooler. Like everyone else, I already bought one with the truck! Furthermore, I have the time to cost them thousands in phone conversation time and it would be far cheaper for them to cave to my request. We shall see who caves first. I won't be towing or even driving for months so I can be a pita for a few months before I actually need cooled fluid. Then I will cave and do my own before pulling my tt.

 

My Tundra TSS is a 4.6l RWD. I actually turned the metal fitting on the transmission up to connect the hose. On my truck, the oil comes out of the trans to the warmer, out the warmer to the cooler, then back to the trans. With the hoses routed down the back of the engine, the hoses are very cool with not direct heat.