What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Yeah. I definitely don't want to be as stupid as that guy. He actually broke not 1, but 2...

 

I snapped one when I redid everything few months ago. It spun right out for me and I promptly went and got new bolts then relooked up torque specs.

 

mine is a 2006 with a 4.7 L engine and I just drained all fluids with all of these:
https://www.searchforparts.com/oil-change/toyota-2006-tundra-4.7l-2uz-fe

gotta make it last because it will be a hand me down vehicle to a certain family member. lol, that is true savings!

 

Now the real fun begins...wish me luck!

 

May the force be with you

 

But not too much force right?
Also, I don’t need a nut on the threaded rod behind the puller because there would be no way to get it on the rod right?

 

Maybe this pic will help.

 

correct, only the weird shaped puller thing needs to be on the threaded rod, then that big plate will go on and mate to the diff then a nut to start the pulling.
Extra nuts were added from other members

also don’t forget to jam a bag in the diff hole so you don’t send the tool to far when tapping in

 

I sense another Mangler in the House.

 

Ok so:
Baggie went in, then the puller being held by a magnet wand. It took some carful manuevering to get the threaded rod into the puller but got er done. The only issue I had was once the needle bearing was 90% of the way out, it was contacting the bar and unable to be ‘pulled’ any further.

I had to improvise and ended up using two small wrenches on either side to give some more room to pull the bearing out.

Worked. No casualties.
The next issue was driving the ECGS bushing in because using a small drift (I think it’s called) the strut and control arms get in the way to be able to get a good whack on it. So I ended up using a long 3/8” extension and that made it poke out beyond the wheel well to give me ample room to smack it.

sorry bout that last one. Phone was in a plastic bag.

All done.

Hopefully everything is seated correctly and nothing leaks. Bought some more gear oil and filled the diff back up. All is well...no more annoying rumble in 2wd now.

On a side note, I wonder if this wheel is bent because there is 5.5ounces of weights on it....seems excessive but the guys at discount tire never said anything so I’m ‘guessing’ that got it to balance.


Also, thanks to @FrenchToasty for the bearing puller tool rental

 

Yeah none of it is as easy as it’s written on paper, but it sounds like you didn’t have any big issues so that’s good, even better it took care of the front end growl

 

5.5 OZ? Wow. Depending on the tire, it's possible but if it needed that much balance they should have shifted it. Maybe they did? Otherwise, excellent use of combo wrenches, too!

 

Yeah you could be right, I haven’t been too impressed with Discount Tires especially when it came to telling my to put tape over my TPMS light cause they couldn’t fix the sensors they installed less than a year ago. These days I have a hard time with people’s ineptness when it comes to basic on the job skills.
I’ll go back and ask them to do a rotate/balance

 

Got all my broken wiring harnesses replaced! O2, knock, and alternator harnesses from the scrap yard were a good call. No more wire nuts, y'all taught me well.


I am still working on finishing the restoration by wrapping everything in Tesa Engine Compartment tape, I am removing most original tape and plastic looms except the thick ones, it's all crusty and brittle.

I also thought it would be a good idea to work on replacing the 2 front body mounts since the engine is out and maybe a little less weight will help.


That washer at the top is rusted in, I am soaking it overnight in PB Blaster and hopefully tomorrow the hammer and prybar can knock it out. Anyone else replaced these? Mine are shot. The aftermarket body mount kit I got uses the factory washers.


Had to use two breaker bars going in opposite directions to free the nut.


eBay seller just told me engine will SHIP on the 21st. It will have been 2 whole weeks. They were real responsive before I paid, and afterwards have not said much. I am optimistic that grouchy, non-tech-savvy old men shop owners are the standard rather than the possibility I got scammed.

 

Hope so bud. You sure have put a lot of work in!

 

You have learned well young Padawan, good work, you have done.

 

Last tubes attaching Hitch to the bumper went so fast I decided to start some sliders. Got one side bent and tacked, hope to finish them this week and burn on over weekend but we all know how long the bumpers taken....

 

I’d be interested in more of these body mount bushings pictures and tutorial/how to while you are at it. How does one know if they are shot/bad?

 

I went out and adjusted my headlights. Didn't really improve. I still have no idea why my high beams illuminate the space station

https://youtu.be/2I7vRSyHhOo

 

here ya go.

$15 3M™ Headlight Lens Restoration System 39008, 4/Case

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001AIZ5HY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_0G3bGbXV3ET5G?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

 

From the picture, they look like they pretty high. Also, the need to be rotated to be leveled out. Give me about an hour and I’ll make video to show you what I am referring to.

 

What bulbs or projectors are you using? Lol it seems perhaps your HID bulbs are not seated correctly. They may require shimming. Your hotspots should land just above the cut off. The shield should cover about the bottom 30 percent or so of the hotspot. That way when your cut off shields drop, the hotspots shine down the road not at the moon. If you are using d2s bulbs you can try shimming the bulb. I'll find a link on how to shim them for you.

Here is some info on adjusting or shimming d2s bulbs.
https://youtu.be/ziXMNnVcLsc

 

5 oz is kinda Normal if your running big heavy tires

 

@SouthPaw

I thought it was you, but must have been @Darkness that sent me a helpful link in the past on properly adjusting these.

Last year I had them adjusted lower. This is the pic I sent you. It still had high beams going skyward.

 

Ok, here it is. By no means am I a professional retro fitter nor YouTuber (obviously). Here is the link I send to get your alignment basics. This will get you a good starting point and after that, you can fine tune it.
https://blackflamecustoms.com/how-to-align-hid-projector-headlights/

This is what you are aiming for as a finished product. I used the exact specs as the link above to achieve these with my personal truck.

Low beams:


High beams:


Now here is the me explaining the way they work. I obviously don’t use the correct terminology but you get the idea. For these to work at optimum performance, they have to be aligned correctly. It really only takes abojt 15-30 min to get them aligned. Usually you spend more time trying to find a blank wall to use lol. Hopefully this clears up some questions.
https://youtu.be/cj_T0fjsaqo

 

How far away are you from the wall and how far up are the cutoff lines measuring?

 

I didn't measure this time. I was around 25 feet from the wall I'd guess. Last time I followed the article someone sent and measured from the ground to the middle of my headlight. I believe it then said to adjust the cutoff on the wall to be 2 inches less than that measurement.

 

Second video with the shroud installed so you don’t see the excessive glare.
https://youtu.be/RcZ4FN5Leyw

 

I would say start from zero again. That video you posted, them seem really high. If you watch my first video, you can see how the high beams work. It is literally just folding the cuffoff shield down. So if your headlights are aimed high, your high beams will be high too. You also need to level out your cutoff lines as well.

 

I finally did it. It’s been way too long but I finally did it.


























I changed the black mirror for a matching limited white one . Now my truck doesn’t look like it’s winking at everyone.