The All-New Morimoto 2Stroke 3.0 LED Bulbs!

The Morimoto 2Stroke 3.0 LED bulb just launched today. Here is some information on this one of a kind LED bulb, you need to see this! I'll touch up lightly on each key feature that makes these bulbs so special compared to the rest!

Cooling/Heatsink design:



With LED bulbs, you'll have two different forms of thermal management. One being your standard fan-cooled option where a fan will be mounted on the back of the LED bulb to push air through the heatsink, thus venting heat off of the bulb. The other common method you see is the non-fan based bulbs where there is no moving fan but more so a skeletonized heatsink that freely allows heat to radiate off the bulb. The 2Stroke 3.0 LED bulbs use a much more efficient method of cooling and a safer one at that! There are two slots on each side of the bulb base by the PCB board, one slot is the intake and the other is the exhaust slot. The bulb takes air in through one slot that loops around the rear half of the LED bulb to cool and vents the hot air out the other side using an internal cyclone fan that is not exposed whatsoever. With this fan being enclosed, this makes for the ideal bulb for those fog lights or housings that are exposed to the elements or for those who tend to go offroad, as nothing can get in and interfere with the fan. Another great feature about this cooling design is once the air goes through the vents, the hot air is then routed into your headlight/fog light housing, which in return will subtly heat the lens and deter any ice or snow build-up on the lens! Gone are the days of wiping your headlights of ice, turn up the heat!

LED Chipset:



The 2Stroke 3.0 LED bulbs use two separate chips, one for single filament applications and another for dual filament applications. The single filament bulbs use Osram Oslon HKL531.TE chips, which are very bright while also being extremely reliable due to design and new solder pad designs in terms of durability. The compact chips not only deliver high light output, but they are also individually addressable with an ensured chip-to-chip contrast, making these bulbs perfect for identical beam patterns compared to your OEM bulbs. Coming in at a cool 5,500k kelvin temperature, you'll see that familiar pure white color that you've been longing for. The dual filament bulbs use the Luxeon Z ES chips are absolute beasts of LEDs. They offer never-before-seen color consistency, luminance, flux density, and design flexibility for next-generation lighting solutions. The LUXEON Z family is undomed, a feature that provides unmatched optical flexibility for precise beam angle control. Being just barely warmer in color than the single filament bulbs, these LED bulbs will present a 5,700k kelvin temperature, delivering that phenomenal cool white color for the roads ahead.

Performance:



Needless to say, the 2Stroke 3.0 LED bulbs dominate every housing we throw them at. Here is a Ford F-150 H11 reflector headlight, we recorded results from the OEM halogen bulb, the previous 2Stroke 2.0, the new 2Stroke 3.0, as well as the renowned GTR Lighting Ultra 2 LED bulbs. All tests were performed 25ft. from the testing wall on a leveled surface. The OEM halogen bulb is pretty standard stuff, not a whole lot going on here to be impressed with. We see the traditional dull halogen color with a mild hotspot in the center, just what we'd expect from an OEM unit. Please keep in mind any LED bulb is not legal for street applications unless used offroad only, or in a fog light application. The 2Stroke 2.0 LED bulbs are up next and it is easy to see there is an improvement here. The color first off is much better, coming in at the 5,700k color range. The beam pattern is clean and replicates OEM fairly well with minimal glaring or odd streaks. We would like to see a bit better of a hotspot from this, but this performance isn't disappointing by any means either. The 2Stroke 3.0 is up next and as you can see, they easily hold their own. We have a great beam pattern very much so like OEM, only much brighter! This hotspot is looking better than the 2Stroke 2.0, holding a nicer intensity which results directly in more distance lighting down the road for the driver. We see a nice fluid reach of beam pattern across the wall with no oddities or defects, pair these bulbs with a solid set of fog lights and you will not be much on the road you won't be seeing! Last but not least is the GTR Lighting Ultra 2 LED bulbs. The beam pattern we saw from this bulb looks great but was a little sloppy for our liking. You'll see a fair spread of light, but the hotspot isn't as pronounced as you would want it, and there tends to be more of dissipation of light as you go further from the hotspot. All this surrounding light can result in glare for others in the wrong application, as well as reduced output for the user.

Design:



Anyone can slap a set of LEDs on a PCB Board and call it an LED bulb. But what really makes for a rock-solid product that is going to perform well across the board is the design of the entire product, not just a general idea. When engineering the 2Stroke 3.0 LED bulbs, the distance from the LED chipsets to the base of the bulb was one of the main focuses when in development. We needed to be sure that each 2Stroke 3.0 bulb best matched its OEM counterpart to ensure the bulb could perform at its best and met the requirements of its environment you are installing them into. In order to be sure that this requirement could be replicated identically over and over again during the production of new bulbs, special tooling was designed and implemented across the board to ensure you receive the highest quality product available on the market time and time again.

Special H4 Reflector Cup Design - a Market's First!


When developing the design of this particular bulb, the low beam shade cup was put under the knife. This newly designed cup has a built-in micro-optical reflector inside that allows the bulb to illuminate reflector surfaces above the bulb, an industry first in the market of LED bulbs! The section of reflector in the housing directly above the bulb handles a vast amount of lighting you'll find in your beam pattern, so this performance-enhancing reflector is able to make the most of your beam pattern. As you can see in the lower-left diagram, you have a standard H4 LED without the optimized reflector and below it, you have the redesigned 2Stroke 3.0 bulb with the enhanced reflector. Looking at the beam patterns, it is very clear to see the advantage of the enhanced reflector compared to the standard bulb. There is a substantially higher amount of light in the bottom diagram compared to the top diagram, showing the increase in beam pattern coverage and overall lighting output improvements. This is the H4 bulb to end all other H4 options on the market, perfect for our Tundras!

Needless to say, if you've been looking for a lighting upgrade that is sure to impress you, the new 2Stroke 3.0 LED bulbs are definitely something you do not want to pass up!

Here is a YouTube review we made as well!
Link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IWDjFQuT7Gs

Cheers Tundra Crew!

-Caleb @ HR

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D3MjY1Ge8A8

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aNwwGS396IM

 

What is the cost for a set of these for a '15 Platinum Tundra, H4/9003 i think - hi / lo beam one bulb.

 

These bulbs retail for $175/Pair!

Link: https://www.headlightrevolution.com/h4-2stroke-led-bulbs?quantity=1

We have lots of details on our website regarding these bulbs, feel free to check them out!

 

I was looking at your site last night specifically for these bulbs. I'm thinking about buying them. Are they just a plug and play if my truck has halogen bulbs now?

 

I just installed a set of GT@ 2.0 LEDs in my halogen assemblies in my '15 Tundra and the high beams are great but the low beams seem less solid. Most LED headlight assemblies are too $$$ for this truck. Is there another set of LEDs that has a solid hi and low beam pattern for the '15 1794/Platinum Tundra?

Or would it be best to keep what i have and add a light bar in the grille?

 

Are the bulbs installed properly? This is one major point to check when installing bulbs! Even if it's a position or so off, you'll see an enormous change on the roads ahead! Check out our install guide showing the proper method of installing LED bulbs and properly clocking them in a housing!
Link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NbfAyqVgVdM

Lightbars are great and all, but I reaaaaalllyyyyy don't recommend using these on the roads, for the sake of oncoming drivers and that Sherriff's ticketbook. I'd give the bulbs another look to make sure they are aligned properly and if this is still not packing the punch you'd like on low beam, maybe look into a set of fog lights like Baja Designs sports, Diode Dynamics SS3/Maxx, or even something bulb-wise like the Ultra 2!

 

Sorry that I missed this, but yes these install just like the OEM bulbs do!

 

I confirmed the LEDs are at the 9/3 position and the low beams shine brighter than the stock halogens but have a distinctive 3 spot beam ahead of the truck. Had the lights leveled at the dealer and the 3 spot beam pattern is still there. However the high beams are very focused and bright.

Any other LEDs you would recommend for the 2015 Tundra Plantinum with the halogen housing? Thanks!

 

So, it looks like these bulbs are designed as headlight bulb replacements...H4 for the Tundra, but you site doesn’t specifically list them as such, except as fogs. What’s the deal? Are they headlight bulbs, and legal as such? I want a set, since it looks like they migh keep the lens warm enough to keep them from freezing over.

 

I just installed these on my 2021 SR5 and now I’m getting an issue with the high beams... they won’t turn on !!?
Low beams are fine though.....
I tested the bulb by connecting the high beam pins separately and it works but when connect both high and low beams pins only low beam works !

is this an issue on these bulbs ???

 

that is an odd issue, this sounds to be a resistance issue. If your low beams work but not your highbeams, a good troubleshooting test would be to reinstall a halogen bulb on one side only, then test the lights again. That halogen bulb will reinstate the OEM resistance in that circuit which should in return allow your highbeams to work again. please also send us an email so that we may continue troubleshooting with you, as well as send out any further parts that may be needed for the issue to be resolved!
Sales@headlightrevolution.com
218-755-5200

 

Hey, I just signed up so I could join this discussion. I just installed a set of Morimoto 2Stroke 3.0 H4 bulbs in my 1994 T100 on Saturday. Just like Sam_must, the high beams don't work. I removed a set of GTR Ultra2 H4's to put the 2Stroke 3.0s in. Both the Ultra2's and the factory halogen H4's work as they should.

I did some testing and found that when using high beam, both low and high beams are getting power from the vehicle wiring. I unpluged the vehicle wiring and jumped power and ground directly to the bulb. I can get high beam if I connect ground to the common terminal (the horizontal terminal on the H4s) and power to high beam terminal. If you jump power to the low beam with power still connected on the high beam terminal, like the vehicle is doing, the bulb goes back to low beam.

I would think all vehicles using H4's would operate the same in applying power to both the high and low beam circuits when high beam is selected. If this is the case, Morimoto needs to investigate this. At least I hope they do. The beam pattern is absolutely perfect. Its even better than the Ultra2.

*Edit* I sent a message to Morimoto through their website on Saturday. I got a confirmation email this morning letting me know they received my message and will get back to me as soon as they can, but that this is their busy season so replies will be delayed.

 

I have been in touch with HR support and was told I do need PWM/CANBUS module for my application.
Waiting for mine to arrive so I can test it ... hopefully it’ll solve the problem

 

I got a reply from Morimoto about a week ago, the representative there said that it sounded like I needed a switching ground polarity module. It basically turns my wiring into a power switching system instead of a ground switching system. I got one and tried it and it still operates the same way. Low beam works, but high beam does not. I tried it with both the vehicle and bench tested it with my battery jump pack, both with and without the module. Whenever power is supplied to both the low beam and the high beam circuit at the same time, only the low beam diodes operate. Even if you connect high beam first then connect low beam, the bulb goes back to low beam.

I can make it work by adding a relay which will turn on when the high beam is turned on and will break the circuit for the low beam, but I shouldn't have to. I'm going to get back with Morimoto and ask them about it again. I hope the PWM/CANBUS module works for you, keep us updated if you can!

 

Got my 3.0’s in the mail today and replaced my old Auxbeam f-16 series LED bulbs. Here’s the comparison, you should be able to tell the difference

 

Wow. Ok... tell me more...stock light assemblies? Plug and play? Any issues? No oddities with other lighting with them on?

Where did you buy them? And which exact model?

How do the high beams look? Could you post a comparison for that as well (if you have it).
But the lows... the light cutoff is amazing...

thank you! I know, a ton of questions, but HR hasn’t answered any of my questions, so haven’t done the upgrade. I also have the Auxbeams, and happy with the output on low...on high I have a lot of odd artifacting. and kind of a tunnel pattern.

 

I live in Canada so I got them off a Canadian retailer which obviously wouldn’t make sense for you.

Yes, plug and play into the stock halogen housings and harness. No issues with any of the functions like I’ve heard some people talk about. I’ve also got the nsv light bar and it works as it should with the morimoto’s.

The model is the H4 morimoto 2stoke 3.0.

The lowbeam output seems to be good with the 3.0’s but the auxbeams may actually win on highbeam output. Can’t say until I’m actually on the highway in the dark. Doesn’t really matter for me because when I’m on a secondary high way and flick on my high beams, the nsv bar takes over anyway.

here’s the comparison:

Auxbeam f-16 series highbeam

Morimoto 3.0 highbeam

 

Very nice, thank you. Odd that I don’t see the artifacting on the Auxbeam highs that I have, but maybe it’s just the daylight.

in any case, it’ll be interesting to see what you think when you use them.

which NSV do you have and where is it mounted? Where you put the switch? My Prius that I do t have a good place to mount a switch... no blanks. I’ll prob order the 3.0 based on your pics, so thank you very much.

 

Shoot me a PM if you have any Qs, I'm happy to help!

 

Anybody else using these in their trucks? What has been your experience so far? Are they what they claim to be meaning they replicate the bulbs/beam pattern in a stock reflector housing but are way brighter? Reason I ask is the stock OEM lights in my 2015 Tundra totally suck! Looking to replace, but don't want the expense of changing out housings. If these do what they claim, this might be the right choice? BTW are these the correct models, H4 for hi/low beams and H8/H16 for the fogs?

 

Ronrich
I too Having some of the same questions. I just got a 2017 1794 Tundra and one of my headlight bulbs went out yesterday and looking to replace with LEDs.
Looking at the YouTube HR videos for Mari Moto and GTR bulb Replacements both look good but perhaps too many lumens for Street use? I’m going to call HR this morning to ask about this and recommendations. I’ll post later.
If you look at the YouTube videos from HR there’s some good information comparing LED replacement bulbs and show beam patterns
Nick

 

Yes, I agree and have reviewed many videos, along with their comments. They all show great replication of the stock OEM reflector beam pattern/cutoff and look brighter (anything is brighter than the stock lights) but not as bright as the GTR Ultras. But in the comments sections there are some concerning "non-working" issues or needing additional hardware (some type of cable and/or driver?). That is why I posted this ... to get some "real world" Tundra owners feedback using these to see how clean the install is and how well they work in our trucks. Here is one of the more informative videos I found, also read through the comments section.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0N9419LxeIU

 

Oh good so you have had time also to check out videos and do some research. Thanks for the video link. That is a good one.
I spoke to headlight revolution today and cleared up a few things. One thing I saw in the video also is there aren’t any non-OEM LEDs that are DOT rated. Sounds like that will change at some point in the future but for the time being looking for which bulbs won’t blind other drivers and get us tickets? I will look for some feedback on that tonight as I mainly drive in suburban Chicago.
It looks like the Marimoto Bulb is the lower lumen value at 1850Lm I believe. While the GTR Ultra 2 is up near 3800Lm. Probably many factors that would effect the view from opposing drivers however and hoping to get some more comments from the forums….what Tundra drivers are using and not an issue.
I’m trying to stay away from replacing with OEM Halogen But not set myself up getting regular stops by the PD

 

I can’t get past the fact that all the bulbs on their site say they aren’t street legal but they imply you can ignore this and use them anyway.

Also the amount of buzzwords and marketing they throw at products, along with plenty of examples (on this forum) of poor customer service and products that simply don’t work well.