What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

420 and 430 mean catalyst inefficiency. You won’t feel any performance issues or hurt anything. Replace the sensors, if that doesn’t fix the codes, trick the sensors and make them think the cats are working (spark plug defoulers work)

 

Picked up some Fuze It and got the roof drip molding installed on passenger side. Shoved some spare butyl tape in the corner where there’s a gap from windshield molding missing for now.

Taping this in place sucked. It didn’t want to stay in place and lifted slightly. Breaker bar added some pressure/weight in the right area but next time I’d do a thin layer of butyl and embed this in that. Feel it wouldn’t lift as well.

 

Science!


Went and checked out this Bakflip G2 for a DC.




It fits onto my AC with a drop-in bed liner.

It needs new weatherstrips but that's fairly inexpensive. Maybe only 1/2" overlap at rear tailgate but I'll take it.

 

She went under the knife this weekend and came out looking like this:



Full details in my build thread.

 

Close...

 

Oh, a "fun box"! I was kinda close but it needs some coping.

That looks really nicely made.

 

Never noticed how you kept one mirror black and one white.

 

My coping is 1” square and it’s on the inside.

 

I know, I know. It’s been on my to do list forever. The previous owner busted it and replaced the drivers side with a non power mirror. I’ve found a few used ones for $65-$95. I just need to bite the bullet and buy it already lol.

 

Truck looks great! I didnt know if you were trying out a new look.

 

I bought a used oem powered mirror off ebay for like $40

 

Chrome ones are all over, painted white are much more rare.

 

ah painted white. I got a painted black one for 40 and one for 50

 

I’m debating painting my mirror caps... hmmm

 

Assuming your mirror cap is able to be popped off, then they are easily paintable. There are 5 tabs inside that need prying after removal of the mirror face. @SouthPaw

 

Pre-Repair and Painted Mirror Caps Era

 

have a drop down leg in mind for that?

 

No need. That’s 1/8 wall tubing with like 22 roller bearings per side. Once I get it fixed down to the bed I could likely stand in it.

 

Slightly crazy thought, but 1st gen sequoias are really cheap and great for road trips. It's probably cheaper to keep your truck and buy a sequoia than it is to buy a 1st gen double cab (they are stupid expensive). That's what I did and it's also really nice to have a backup vehicle for when I take too many things apart on either one.

 

@FirstGenVol Did you get your HID ballasts working?

 

Since I disabled DRL they turn on each time unlike before. But my output doesn't seem like it improved at all and my high beams point up at the moon, not down the road. I've been procrastinating adjusting them as it's been so cold here at night. I'm wondering if it's the cheap bulbs at this point. I will adjust one more time and if that doesn't help I'm rip these out and go back to a normal housing. Then I will apologize to hand model for talking shit about the Katana bulbs.

 

Things tend to get weird when people do that.

 

Do the bulbs switch for your high beams, or do your projectors just open the flaps? I think it should be the projectors opening flaps.

 

I'm not sure. What would you take from this sentence "all the high beam does is remove the shutter to expose the whole beam unrestricted." ?

 

That's what darkness was saying. The shield on the projector opens for the high beam.

I find my high beam to not be very helpful because they do tend to just shine in the trees, but the low beams are so much better, I don't need the high beams. I have an extra good quality HID bulb. PM me your address and I'll send it to you.

 

Interesting thought. If I go that direction it's 100 Series Land Cruiser though. That feels like a slippery slope.

 

Yeah, but oh so fun!

 

There is a flap in the projector that blocks part of the beam when you use low beams, that is what holds the cutoff line. When you hit high beam usually that flap opens and exposes the full projector so the light beam becomes unobstructed. The bulb itself should run a single filament, unlike halogen bulbs where a second filament is activated for highs.

 

Thanks. That really helps explain it. I feel like there is a hidden joke in here about my flaps.

 

Installed my suspension and wheels a while back and finally became a real off-roader....went through a couple of mud puddles on a back road..lol.