What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Yes, but I want more if that makes sense. First fire up they seemed underwhelming. Different with some yellow, but I was expecting more. Started going Postal!

Put the LED’s back in and then realized they weren’t as bright. Swapped one HIR in and did a side by side and they seemed close with HIR being brighter. I think their may have been some resistance with the two type bulbs being in at same time throwing off the Mojo.

I’ll probably throw the HIR back in tomorrow during the daytime after sleeping on it. Pods will set me back $100 for two plus a wire harness which would give me way more light. Stuck in limbo land.

Did you install yours yet?

 

Why would the wire harness yield more light again?

 

Looks good!
Sorry if I missed it but what bulbs did you use in the factory backup lights?

 

Yes, but I have not had a chance to test them at night.

 

appreciate it half way through cutting em out I was kinda wishing I’d paid somebody to install em lol


they were an upgrade option when I bought the tail lights from pro tuning lab. They’re not bad. Eventually I’ll get the diode dynamics put in. I’ve got leds from diode in my tail lights and turning signal slots.

Diode’s xpr’s would be my choice
https://www.diodedynamics.com/backup-leds-for-2000-2013-toyota-tundra-pair.html

 

mixed up the vacuum lines? Over tightened the trans shift cable when you were doing the throttle? What else were you at about that time period?

 

Wait until those HF slim one's go on sale, they'll probably be $20 a piece. Same with .

 

He did install some new Silicone vacuum lines around that same time. Wonder if they are collapsing under vacuum? I’ve heard this is a thing with Silicone Aftermarkets.

 

Quick test in the driveway: they are noticeably brighter and as desired, the view through the reverse camera is much better.

 

Nice. Sent Mz. PHM some pics and she says the same. HIR Bulbs will be going back in tomorrow.

 

Its totally possible. I did do a shit load of lines all at once instead of one line at a time.

I did leave a little bit of slack on the cables I adjusted. Not much, but some.

Again, totally possible. I must have missed that before my install. About a week after I installed them I read that its possible for them to collapse. Made me feel like this.

​

The ones I used were thick wall silicone tubes. I'm hoping the extra wall will keep the vacuum lines from squishing.

I'll have to see if I can find a picto-graph of each vacuum line. I can double, and triple check each connection using one of them.

Heres the kit I used on my vacuum lines if you all want to investigate. See if your expertise leads you to these being the problem.

I thought they'd be fine, but maybe I didn't see something or someone else's view point would yield something else.

Those were recommended by a few fellas with this engine on TW.

 

Only way to know is put all the old ones back on. Or, take out a loan for OEM.

 

I’ll second the

 

Most are discontinued now. In the words of my gran-pappy. "Shit-fuck."

He was a man of few words. The ones he did speak were mostly curse words.

 

My Italian boss would say, ‘Da Muddafucks’.

 

I had a Persian boss once, I always thought he was making up new cuss words

 

Gran-pappy wasn't very schmoov either. A rather coarse, brash man. Got his point across too. Even if it was with a belt, switch, tree-limb, coat hanger, wires...

Rip.

 

After a quick browse on RockAuto. Doesn't appear to be a "kit."
There are individual sized lines you can buy.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/tools/hoses/lines+&+clamps,vacuum,vacuum+hose,230

Looks like most are silicone also.

Does anyone have any ideas on how I could check to see if mine are indeed collapsing?

 

Try squeezing them along the length of the hose if they don't visually appear to be collapsed.

 

Building a sweet quarter pipe and handing out bearings to the neighborhood kids?

 

What brand O2 sensor and MAF? I stick with denso or ntk as other O2 sensors may not read like OEM (ie: Bosch is a good company but japanese designed vehicles sometimes don't like them).

If the front sensor is an air/fuel ratio it should have a fairly steady voltage signal between 0-5v. If it's an older style it will swing between 0-0.9v constantly (1-3 seconds), if this swing is lazy (too long +5 seconds) then it's possibly going bad.

The rear is an older style but should have a steady signal around .3-.9v if the cat is working correctly. If it is bouncing every couple seconds the cat is bad.

For the rear sensor, is there a simulator you can use or perhaps plug the pipe and hang the sensor in open air?

You can also remove the cat, use a flashlight on one side and see if you can see light through the honeycomb. If you cannot, because its plugged & bad, hollow it out and see if things improve (wear a mask/eye protection).

What temps is the engine operating at? You can check it with a temp gun vs the sensor reading via OBD2. If for some reason it's reading colder than normal, that will also cause worse mileage.


When the engine is at temp, pop the hood with the engine running and see how the lines look and feel. If they are very soft and/or collapsed, definitely replace them. You can always buy a roll or two of regular rubber line at the parts store and make new ones to see if there is a difference.


How much slack on the throttle/kick down cables? Less than 1/8" or more than 1/4"?

 

now. this is only a little suggestion because i do believe theres actually more light to be gained.. but if you ran thicker wire from the front of the truck to a relay then tied into the reverse light, you would probably get even more output. since theres 2 extra amps of draw on those bulbs i bet you've got at the very least a little bit of voltage drop with factory wiring, even still. the ouput is impressive for sure

 

Denso on all three.
Up stream A/F Sensor

$137 Denso 234-9001 Upstream Air Fuel Ratio Oxygen Sensor with 10.6” 4-Wire Harness, for Auto Trans Equipped Vehicles

Big gurll link
Rockauto link

$87 Denso 197-6020 Mass Air Flow Sensor, Regular

Mass air flow Big Gurll link
Rockauto link

$53 Denso 234-4161 Oxygen Sensor with 15.35” 4-Wire Harness

Downstream Big Gurll link
Rockauto link

Screenshots are per denso site.

This right here was the information I was missing. Thank you for educating me.
I'll get my scanner when I get home, and report back.

URD makes a simulator for the rear O2, but it is currently out of stock. If that's what you mean? Link
I don't see why I couldn't remove the rear, and letting it hang.

I couldn't find these pictures in my files, but I found the quote. I'm pretty sure if I remove my cat, I'll have to go back on with new anyways. Check these pictures.

I can't remember off hand. I'll check with my hand held temp gun when I get home.

 

I guess this forum doesn't like real long posts. It kept throwing in all kinds of random characters. I'm 100% positive I was not making strange keystrokes.

Anyways, I'll check with my temp gun when I get home, and with my scanner.

I'll do a check when I get home.

I would say that there's less than an ⅛" of play.

 

Lol. Possibly or autocorrect can't handle it.


Can you rotate the throttle rotor and get a hair of movement before it hits the stop? Less than 1/8" may be too tight, leaving your throttle cracked.

 

Could be that too.

I'm pretty sure I adjusted it while I was running so I wouldn't get it too tight. I can double check when I get home.

I feel like I'm frustrating you, and other reading this because I'm at work.

 

All good. If I was bothered, I wouldn't reply.

 

Thank you for all your help thus far! I have a laundry list of checks, and double checks now. Lol

 

Snapped a couple quick pics of this cuz it was weird.

Had an unsed machine pallet signed out to me from my manager. Multiple copies of the sign out sheet were made, and stashed in various places.

Covering my hot dog.

 

Thanks for the suggestion. I was watching the Alternator Needle when switching into R from P. It dropped a needle thickness. Freaked me out! Put the LEDs back in and it did the same needle thickness drop. I never watched the needle before going into R so didn’t know what to expect.

I’ll have to put the DMM on things to see for sure. Not sure I want to run more wires back there. Still waffling this morning on adding LED Floods/Assy Combo instead of the HIR.