The Professional Hand Model Reinvestment ‘Build’: A Chronological Story.

Sorry for all questions... so stock coil and leafs, just bilsteins added?
Again, thx!

 

Yes. Stock ‘TRD Off Road Package’ Coils. Some of our trucks don’t have these Heavier Duty Coils, so you may get different results. Stock original rear leafs still, as well.

 

Picked up some items for the truck this week. Still waiting on some backordered HIR Reverse Bulbs to arrive.

 

Dali Llamas installed. Customized the headrest to fold over the back by poking holes in them. Super comfy!

 

Those look THICC

 

Yes. The fur pile is about 1” and then there is a rubber perforated backing on the skin side which helps the cover stay ‘glued’ in place. Very comfy. I opted for these as the are easy on/off for cleaning when needed. My old ones were custom and were a bear to remove. These cost $75 each. Customs are around $180.

Might have to sew my own Arm Rest Covers out of some rugs in the same material/color.

 

you got a link to the specific sheepskin covers? I like the look and simplicity of the cheaper version. Truck is amazing man!

 

Thank you. The price went up to $89 as of right now. They are super comfy. Stoked to have Sheep Skins again after many years without.

 

Been busy and haven’t messed around on the truck mechanically in a while. Checked the Oil Cap as this time of year the cold humid short driving on the Island creates Oil Puddin’. Since taking over the maintenance a few years ago, this is a normal occurrence. Pulled the PCV Valve and she was free and clear.

 

Those seat covers sure do remind me of all the late '80's Lambo's. I do know your 1st gen drives way better than the Countach, though.

 

The HIR Bulbs Upgrade is working nicely. They provide enough light to get the job done. Could there be more light? Sure, but these are better than before and no need to add Aux Lights at additional cost/work ($100-300 depending).

Total Cost of HIR Bulbs $17. Time to replace less than 30 minutes.

 

Started an experiment on the Original OEM Air Filter Box after watching another thread on Cold Air Intake ‘Stacks’. Didn’t want to spend any money on this so decided to keep with this ‘build’ threads Original Mandate to keep the truck as OEM as possible. Optimization is the key.

Removed the Air Box for the first time ever and Feather Dusted underneath really well. Heated up the OEM Intake Tip with a Heat Gun and molded the tip a little larger with a little Flair. Also, ported off the squared off edges on both the inner and outer intake pipe.

A few days later, I moved over to inside the MAF Inlet and Flaired that off. Had a little worry about Air Turbulence prior from study, but so far so good with 100+ miles and no CEL. Truck has gained extra low end power when on the throttle. It has a little extra at mid/high end.

Never seen anyone else try this so its a first for me. I’ll measure MPG Calcs on the next fill up and if the are really bad I’ll buy a new/used box and revert back. So far the OBD looks good on temps, fuel trims, etc. Engine runs/idles as smoov as always. Feeling good about it.

Truck Air Box is all OEM with a Toy Filter (experts say this keeps the turbulence down) with 17k miles.

 

Finally took some time to read through this insightful thread. T’was a very good read... Indeed.

The attention to detail is nice, Fred.

 

Thank you. I’ve enjoyed your Build Thread, as well. You brought it back nicely. I never thought I’d have a near 20 year old vehicle that would still run as good as new.

 

Absolutely true...

 

Is this the thread we can use as a guide to bring our 20 year old trucks back to factory standards?

 

We’ll call it Factory Plus.

 

What's the monthly subscription fee for the "plus" features?

 

$69.69

 

We do monthly installment payments if needed.

 

Cleaned up this thing in the Driver Rear Tail Light Cavity.

 

What the hell is that anyways?

 

Good question. I didn’t snap a pic of the Part# on the cover for some reason. Can’t find the part on any of my Deep Searches. Might be one of those chyna Tracker Units Marbles used to talk about.

 

I was thinking it had something to do with a trailer harness given its location.

I know when I installed the 4pin harness on my truck, it came with a "box." The wires come from factory plug, into "the box" and then into the 4 pin. Not sure why a "box" was necessary.

 

Nice detail hand model!

 

Ends up being a Towing Converter.

 

Since acquisition of the OBD Dongle, this is my first winter monitoring temps. I’ve noticed (with the OEM Tow Cooler) my trans temps barely reach over 125° in moderate City driving for 20-30 minutes in 40° Ambient Temps.

Thus, I’ve decided to add a Transmission Thermostatic Control Valve to raise the temps quicker on short drives and cooler Ambient Temps while maintaining them higher. The Valve ‘Bypasses’ the OEM Cooler and sends the fluid back to the transmission without cooling it in cold weather.

In summer, or anytime the fluid raises above 180°, the Valve opens and allows full fluid flow and the temps maintain. From readings, the Valve always allows at least 10% Flow for Mojo purposes regardless of temps. As the temps rise at the Valve, it opens ever more. At 180° it a full flow.

The Valve is solid Aluminum (heat sink) and acts as a Cooler in Summer in addition to the OEM Stacked Unit Cooler.

From readings, many report like myself their fluid temps were in the 120-130° Range. After Valve install, their temps rose fast and then maintained in the 150-160° in winter (even thought the Valve is rated 180°).

Some report Cooler temps in the Summer as the Valve Body acts as another heat sink.

I’ll be installing this soon and will report back on findings. Made in USA.

 

My temps have been really low lately too. I'm excited to see if this works for you!

 

Was hoping to install this weekend, but lots of other business might keep me from it. Maybe next week sometime. I’ve everything fab’d up and fittings threads installed with gasket maker.