Firewall Problems - 42” Lightbar (Diode Dynamics)

Whelp, what a shit day. First, mounting the 42” lightbar by diode dynamics isn’t an easy job. The video the guy says “all you need is basic hand tools”. This is true. HOWEVER, there’s hardly any clearance between the nuts you have to remove on the bumper mount and all the other shit behind the scenes.

I ended up saying fuck it and mounted the bracket to the excess thread hanging out from the bumper mount to the frame. I hope this isn’t a bad thing. See pics.

Now for the bigger issue, how the fuck do I run this cable through the firewall? The whole nipple removal on the rubber grommet didn’t do shit. If I sound frustrated and pissed off, it’s because I am.

Any pointers?

 

When I ran cables through my firewall, I used a roll of 14-ga baling wire that I had around that was stiff enough to be pushed through the firewall. Once that is through I taped my wires to it and pulled the whole thing back through. It is not fun I won't lie to you. The firewall also has 2 layers so any hole you make has to line up in the engine bay as well as in the cab.

 

I used a metal coat hanger and Vaseline......not as head as it seems. But you have to be some kind of contortionist or have very small hands to do it with ease

 

Did you have the video on YouTube about cutting the nipple? This has been a major pain in the balls, not gonna lie. It took me two hours to get one nut off that bumper/frame mount. There was enough thread hanging out I said fuck it and just used that to hang the light bracket from.

 

What hole did you go through?

 

Sorry you're having such a bad time man. The suggestions above are spot on. Use a coat hanger or bailing wire. There isn't really an easy way to push wires through the grommet any way you look at it. I avoided having to push the large connectors on my new truck by going to a Switch Pro system. On another note, you're going to love the Diode bar. I have the same one on my truck along with SS3 Pro fogs and ditch lights. I am also running SSC2's in the back for area flood lights. They make fantastic products.

 

When I was wiring my LED headlights I had to go through the nipple. I used an ice pick from inside the truck under the dash (you can see the nipple of the firewall) and pushed it out until I broke through. Then I straightened a wire coat hanger and shoved it through the hole I just made. I grabbed the end inside the engine compartment and taped my wire to it. Then I went back into the cab under the dash and slowly pulled it through. Easy peasy. I then just used silicone around the nipple to seal the area around the wire. I hope this helps my friend!

 

I have multiple holes. The nipple hole I filled with an 8 gauge subwoofer cable. I then cut some smaller holes for a three-position switch for aux backup lights and I decided I did not want to do that anymore so I added an underhood control box and switch system and ran those through the firewall. If you have an extra set of eyes that can watch the opposite side while you are trying to push something through it is helpful to guide you into the other side of the hole that you are trying to thread through. Unfortunately I'm going to do it again here before too long because I will be wiring up a front camera to my new headunit so we will see where that ends up.

 

Thanks man. Where in the hell on the inside of the truck does that grommet with the wire and nipple come through? I had a bright ass light shining right into the grommet/nipple area from under the hood and inside I didn’t see any sign of light. Thanks again!

 

No problem man! The first time I tried shoving a wire through that damn thing it took me at least an hour. Haha. It comes through the fire wall kinda in line with the brake pedal and above it. You have to channel your inner contortionist to see it. Plus the grommet is double walled so unless you have a big ass hole through both walls you probably won’t see light coming through it.

 

Slit the grommet, tape (electrical tape) an HVAC 3 foot zip tie to your wire, spray it with silicone spray, and pull it through from the engine compartment to the cab.

Or even a smaller long zipties for smaller wires..



I've pulled many a wire thru that grommet.
Including a 0ga amp power wire..

 

Once you cut the nipple ur able to use something like this( I actually used this) and then pull from the inside. Add some lube because if not ur going to end up pulling off the whole grommet lol. Also if it has a plug I would remove the plug and then re install it once it’s on the other side of the firewall

 

This is exactly what I did. I just installed a front camera yesterday and pulled the wire through (twice, that’s another story). I taped my wire to my “fishing device”. The trick is to use lubricant - lots of it! The wire isn’t so bad but “bulky” objects like cable connectors can really make it hard to pull through. Use the tape to streamline the pull.

It may seem like you are using a lot of force but stick with it. I had to get on a step ladder and twist my arm like a pretzel to pull through from the engine bay behind the brake line manifold. The video others mentioned is what helped me.

 

This is what I mean. Plugs or connectors on the end of wires are a PITA. Straight cable is easy. I had to pull a small video with with an RCA plug. I strategically taped up my wire and fishing tool. If you can, remove any plugs or connectors.

 

I didn't go "through" the firewall grommet, I went around it so I didn't have to put a hole in it. I just took a plastic tool and worked it on the outside of the grommet until I got it through then turned it so it so it left a space to run the cable. Once the cable was through, I removed the tool and the cable rested on the outside of the firewall grommet.

 

I second most of the above -- a wire hanger is all you need (are these becoming hard to find? I had to ask 3 neighbors to find one!), along with some tape -- lose the connector if you can, even if you have to go somewhere to have them crimp a new one on (tape it up super well if you cannot) -- lube helps and use a step ladder really get down in there. I've only done this on the passenger side, but the wire pulled through fairly easily. I would also recommend maybe pulling a different/donor wire through first (in case you damage it), and then using that to pull your actual wire back through.

 

I have the same light bar those bumper nuts are pretty tight and have a little loctite on them so they don’t come off easy but I used a 14mm ratchet wrench on them and was able to do the install in about 30min I was able to stab and pass the wire thru the grommet with my 24 inch snap on Phillip head screw driver I used electrical tape to secure the wire to my screwdriver and a little silicone lube I think I had the complete job done in about an hour

 

they sell a tool for piercing through the fw. If you planning on having multiple lights, I suggest a switch pro install though. Will save you time in the long run.

$9 Performance Tool W2935 Stainless Steel Wire Insertion Tool - Piercing for 1/4" Wiring Hole

https://www.amazon.com/Performance-Tool-W2935-Insertion-Piercing/dp/B073WZCL8Q/

 

In addition to all the great suggestions, I went ahead and de-pinned the little harness. This allows for a way easier time to bundle and pull through.



I went ahead and pulled the bumper support nuts off and installed the bracket that way. I reinstalled, with a little loc-tite, as to maybe “deter” others with “basic hand tools” to be discouraged in a quick attempt to thieve my new light bar.

Best and cheers

 

Good ideas. I saw in one YouTube video the guy cut an “X” in the small hole in the grommet that helped open it up a bit. I did this from the cab side which helped a little - but the grommet is double walled so still had to pull pretty hard to get the wire through.

 

Looks like the interior of my 5th gen 4Runner from 2 months ago, the Tundra will look like this in about a month when it gets all the electrics run through it and the sound deadening treatment.

As for the grommet, no experience on a Tundra, but from running plenty of large (2AWG or larger) cables into 5th gen 4Runners for rear power distribution, yes, the grommet is absolutely the hardest part of any wiring related job. Make a little cut, use a HVAC zip tie (or similar), and spray silicone lube as stated earlier.

 

I do not see what the big deal is. I've run several wires through my firewall (0/1 gauge for my amps, 5 different 14 guage wires for my LED lighting, and at least 3 16 gauge wires for aux USB ports). All I did, was use an Xacto blade to cut a "T" on the medial side of the driver side big rubber grommet, taped whatever wire I needed to push through, to a long flat-head screwdriver and pushed the bitch through and grabbed it on the other side. No problem!

 

Ratcheting wrenches are a must to get the bumper off. Same for putting on skid plates.

 

You the man!

 

What’s up all?
Im new to this site.

So I’m looking for an answer that I didnt see posted.

I just received this light bar, and the only concern i have is, how far will the bar mounting brackets stick out since my bumper is shimmed?? Im thinking I’ll have to remove my spacers because I barely have any meat left on the studs…. But i could be wrong…

 

If the bumper is shimmed, it would depend on the size of the shims; just from looking at the studs, I think if you had 1/2" bumper shims (I think the Toytec shims in my garage are 1/2"?) you wouldn't be able to use the lightbar brackets at all, or maybe 1-2 threads?

I'll be pulling my lightbar (and bumper) off tomorrow or Tuesday as I install my ARB Bumper and will try to remember to measure the length of remaining threads on the studs

 

Side note, how did you order the bar with yellow and white, unless I'm blind and don't see something on the website

 

You can order replacement lenses in either clear or amber, and change the beam pattern or color of each module

 

Ok cool. Keep me posted.

I have eight 3/8 washers per stud. That measures out to 1/2 inch.