DIRTY SEVEN CLUB

What lift do you have?

 

Crisis needs expert resolution:

I currently have 18” Method 315 wheels with Toyo 285/75R18 MTs. (Cement truck with gold wheels pictured) Total weight per wheel/tire is 106lbs. I just upgraded to the C4 Overland bumper and I have Bilstein 6112s on top setting and Total Chaos UCAs and a CMC done by @BashFab giving me room for Dirty Sevens.

Doing research on 37’s I discovered the following.

Cooper AT3 XLT 37x12.50 is 68lbs a tire.

KMC 17in KM545 Trek wheel (photos below) is 27lbs with a +18 offset. Total weight is 95lbs or 11lbs lighter than current setup but with 37’s.

Method 313 17in wheel is 24lbs with a +25 offset. Total weight is 92lbs or 14lbs lighter than current setup but with 37’s.

Price difference between the KMC and Method is about $320 more per set of four for the Methods.

Both are available in 5x150 bolt pattern in black.

Any opinions/advice? For some reason the KMC design is a little more appealing to me personally. The Method is a bit more of a standard truck design but both are acceptable.

Thank you for reading this novel.

 

What factors are you most interested in? When we are getting up to 100lbs per tire/wheel combo I don’t think a few pounds additional should sway your decision. Gas mileage is gonna suck and probably wouldn’t notice the difference. I’d say choose the set up that you like more.

Unless you are looking for other quantitative factors between the two wheels to help with your decision..?

 

Factor most important:Reason to justify 37’s.

Second: Making fellow forum members approve of me and not laugh at my wimpy 285/75R18’s.

Third: Every pound helps?!? Current avg. MPG is around 11-13. I have the Leitner cargo system and decked system in the back to assist with aerodynamics.

 

I’m on 35s with steel bumper and skids and I’m at 11mpg lol. So I would go lighter if your worried about mpg

 

Gears and/or boost will help your efficiency numbers more then you think too...gears being first to help...

 

This thread is coming along nicely...

Anyhoo,
I’ve decided to do the upgrade from 33” to 37” in stages. Mostly for research purposes. So others can learn or laugh at my results. I’ve got my 5.29 re gear happening shortly.
I’ve decided on the Falken Wildpeak AT3W in the 37x12.5xR18. My current Toyo R/T’s have performed very well, no complaints. I just want to try something more All Terrain vs Hybrid. I’m going to keep my Method NV’s +25mm offset. Suspension is the 2017 TRD PRO Bilstein.
I’m ordering the coach builder TRD Pro kit and will install it AFTER the 37”s go on. Sounds crazy, but I don’t wheel. Truck is a driveway princess and not my daily driver. This way I can see how the truck changes with each component upgrade.

I will be doing the BMC myself, having watched a few videos I just don’t see the justification of shops charging $350 - $600 for it. (SoCal pricing)

 

Ok so.. I think I’m going to finally join the 37 crew... but I have a few questions:
- do I need a lift the rear of my truck?
- I’m most concerned about rubbing terribly when articulating off-road on trails
- 4.88’s or 5.29’s?
I currently have King 2.5 RR set at just under 3in of lift. I also have icon rebounds with +25 offset. I know I’ll need new gears , remove the sway bar and bmc but do I need anything else?
I’m down to get the tires just want to make sure I have everything checked off before I bite the bullet.
Ps forgive me if these questions have already been answered

 

Any rear lift?

 

you will probably rub on articulating the rear with no lift back there. Gearing is up to you. I have been thinking i will go with 4.88s, and the sway bar is also your choice. It does not have to be removed. Some have said removingit has made there ride quality better. For what its worth i am on kings with a toytec shackle in the rear, 37s on rebounds and no sway bar. Buy the tires, make it so

 

So with everything I mentioned above I should be good to
Go?

 

yeah, so as far as 37s fitting the rear with no lift....they fit fine. i bolted the wheel/tire combo on there before i installed my kings just to see how it would look and everything in the rear clears great. I wouldn't feel to comfortable wheeling it like that. butttttt with the rebounds offset the tire should tuck nicely in the rear. the worst thing that would happen is you would probably scuff up the inner fender lol. You should be good to go

 

Is there any shops in SoCal that people with 37’s can recommend? I’m trying to avoid going to any shop that does bmc and it not being aggressive enough to fit the 37.

 

Why do you want a shop that doesn’t do a BMC? You will probably need one.

 

Well I’d go to a shop that does one but, I’d need them to cut more aggressively than they would let say for 35” tires. From what I read shops only cut the minimum to fit a certain tires?

 

My shop chopped, aligned, and then welded the plate.

 

just chop it yourself. Then if you need more cut more. a angle grinder will do the trick

 

Most shops probably don't even know what a BMC is until they youtube it.

 

http://www.88rotors.com/

 

I am rubbing pretty good on the front sway bar. Is there a way to relocate/move it slightly? I don’t want to take it off because I do a lot of mtn highway driving to get where I’m going.

 

Where's it rub? You can easily space them down and forward a little but I don't think that'll help you if I'm guessing where your rub is.

 

You might need to adjust the rear bump stop if you get too much rubbing but with that wheel it should "fit"

5.29 for sure. I had the same dilemma and went 5.29 based on others recommendations on here. Its only a few hundred rpm higher than my stock tundra cruising on the interstate. Doesn't hunt gears. Drives like stock tundra around town.

You'll want adjustable upper control arms as well to fit the front without rubbing. It takes dialing in, not just "set these alignment numbers"

 

I will take a pic and post a bit later thank you. Forward may help.

 

I was worried about that not having a sway on the twistys as well. But I ditched the bar and I bomb the truck pretty good through the twistys lol. What I notice is that it feels like it rolls a little more then stock when you first come into the corner but instantly feels like it firms out. It does not feel sketchy at all just different then stock. This is with kings and 600 lb springs and adjusters set to 4. Give it a shot, you can always reinstall the sway if you dislike it.

 

I agree with this but 700lb springs for my weight. I don't miss it. My 4runner needed a front sway bar but the Tundra is somehow fine without.

 

i wish I would have got 700 because I am rocking a bumper but no winch yet. It feels perfect now but I think when the winch goes in I will want it stiffer

 

I may do that. I have 650lb springs I believe. I’ll pull it and cruise it and see what happens. I have better weight distribution now so it may be fine.

 

Stupid noob question... what is a BMC?

 

body mount chop aka cab mount chop

 

How long can I realistically drive around on the stock gears before upgrading to 5.29? Aka. If I get wheels and tires now then need to save up for a few months is that okay for the stock gears? Or is that going to strip or damage them somehow?

I live in super flat low country of South Carolina and don’t tow anything on a regular basis or have a super long daily commute or anything like that. For example, I have a 2019 and it has 9500 miles on it.