What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Are you saying that area where the frame overlaps is actually designed that way to help support it? I didn't realize that. I found the pictures in your thread.

You removed this part. I didn't even realized it could be removed.

 

If its just light surface rust (not scaling) you can Grease/Oil right over it. It will soak in and turn rust black.

 

Copy that.
Any moly B is your go-to if I remember right? Any preferred application method? Rag, brush etc..

 

I’d squirt it with some shots of PB Penetrant or Motor Oil for a quick prime and then use a large sponge and load it up with Moly Grease and just start rubbing it on all over. I used my Hands (gasp!) with some gloves to work the hard to reach areas. I’ve saved the large Grease/Oil soaked in a cookie tin and bust it out whenever I’m working under or in a new area of the truck to hit missed areas. The initial Greasing took about 4-6 hours and then another couple hours on the next round.

It might be better to break it up in couple hour increments as its a lot of work, but it is well worth it as it is forever. Makes the frame look Matte Black after a few weeks.

 

Awesome thanks.
Good thing you had gloves on, your meat-hook insurance agent wouldn't have any of that.

 

Correct.. it’s not that the frame overlaps, rather there’s a stiffener that is riveted inside the frame to help spread the load from the front shackle mounts. Mine were bad. Real bad..

They were riveted in with 3/8 inch steel rivets. It’s possible to fabricate replacement stiffeners, and install them with grade 8 hardware, but at the very least, you’d have to drop the fuel tank. Best to raise the bed as well, but it’s a boatload of work.

 

Interesting. So then, this delaminated area isn't good, but may not be as big of an issue as I thought? I douched as much POR in the crack as I could.

I see the rivets now. How did you remove them?

 

Having bedlined the scratched up front bumper cover and liked the results, I balanced things out and did the flares and rear bumper. Used the duplicolor bedliner product, much easier to control spray pattern than the Rust-Oleum.


Changed the engine oil, drained and filled 3qts of ATF, vaccines (this was a very timely autocorrect typo, I vacuumed), and 303d all of the interior between coats.

 

Absolutely true. Doing something is better than nothing in that area.

I bought a couple 3/8” Cobalt drill bits, and starting with a small 3/16 bit, I drilled a pilot hole and worked my way up. I have a drill sharpener, so I ended up resurfacing the bits pretty frequently, to keep them sharp. It’s a lot of work, but well worth it, if the truck is staying around..

When those frame stiffeners fail, that’s when the truck folds in half. Lots of pictures on the www showing Tundras folded up.

No Bueno.

 

Didn’t do much, got the Tundra out to stretch her legs -

 

@FirstGenVol @N84434

This was an education for me also. I always thought that was a frame overlap. I never considered it was a stiffener. Seeing that I can repair mine (hopefully) gives me joy.


I'll be checking your build page soon for details.

This may be something that I take on in the near future.

 

the area that you circled is the plastic clip that is taped to the wiring loom for the rear lights. It’s attached to the frame. I don’t think it’s a crack there... Unless I’m looking at the wrong thing?

Also, the delamination area is primarily that frame stiffener starting to experience intergranular corrosion. If you were to remove that stiffener, you no doubt would reveal a fairly clean frame section.

 

Now that you are showing us that it's a stiffener and not overlap, it make SO much more sense! The overlap thing always created some cognitive dissonance for me. I'm lucky to have a new frame and have it fluid filmed well, but it needs to get the grease treatment before another NE winter.

 

Sometimes it just takes another set of eyes...

 

The angle of the picture is weird because of the gas tank. If I could have gotten a more parallel angle like the lower part of stiffener you would see the same kind of delamination as the bottom section.

I realize now that it does Look like I was circling the wiring harness, but that's not the case.

This gives me inspiration, and hope.
I hope you're right about the clean frame section. That will help buy me time.

 

That surprises me. I was expecting my truck to have a lot more rust behind that stiffener that I cant see. Yours wasn't like that? That's good to know.

I'm glad you educated us on this. Earlier, when you first brought up bed stiffeners I thought it was odd. Now it makes complete sense. Just like Sam, I couldn't figure out why they would design the frame to "overlap" like that. Unless I see something more concerning I doubt I would ever remove mine but it's nice to know I could.

 

Installed the new sliders. The Bed liner turned out horribly. I was in too much of a hurry, and it was too cold. Will have to redo next summer.

Took a couple pics, but it’s hard to see in the dark... will take some more in the blizzard tomorrow.

 

Man those tires are burly @lsaami

 

Yeah they are. They’re Milestar Patagonia MTs. And they’re way overkill for what I need, but they were cheap, and they perform pretty well in the snow, so I have no regrets... yet.

 

No ragrets. This is the way.

 

I had this really familiar shadow follow me home today.

 

He's an offroader at heart. Better do a 4x4 conversion to free your trucks soul.

 

One day...

 

Today I took the truck off pavement for first time with the new wheels and tires.

 

If your thinking as a substitute for a battery clamp I would not recommend them. Battery posts are tapered.

If you have some custom tie rods that use threaded sleeves with slots cut for adjustment then yes .

 

Do you think I can fit these without any cutting or lift?

I've been fighting with the rear O2 sensors like crazy the last few days to try and prevent the CEL from coming on. I tried those URD simulators, but they increased the voltage too much and caused a different code to be thrown.

I reached out to Keith from DirtyDeeds since he specializes in making racing exhausts for our first gens. He said to get rid of the simulators and to add some spark plug non foulers to the sensors and to keep stacking them until the light goes away.

I'm currently 4 spacers deep and probably only have room for one more. I'm really hoping to get rid of that annoying light lol.

Also, today my tire pressure light started blinking to let me know it lost connection with one of the 2 year old sensors. I don't think I care to fork out more money for TPMS stuff when I have an on-board air compressor. I will do the light bypass soon.

Also today, I was leaving the store and heard a crunch only to find out it was my own truck that got hit. Someone smonched my driver side taillight. On a positive note, they managed not to dent a single bit of metal or even scuff paint.

Happy holidays everyone

 

Good guess, but I have an idea brewing. Its something nobody has done before as far as I know in terms of application/execution. Still pondering the cost/benefit as I’ll do it with another part of the truck and do everything together. Gonna spend my ‘stemellus’ before it passes. Hoping for that $2k and then I’ll add another item or two. These lights go with the clamps and the plan is to mount the lights to my Hellwig Sway Links in a vertical position. Pondering wiring the lights into the High Mount Brake wires to activate with the ‘Cargo’ button. This will allow functionality for non-drive mode and drive/reverse quick push options.

 

merry christmas gentlemen!

 

Thats a very nice pairing! Good choices.