What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

First oil change. Mobile 1 synthetic high mileage with matching oil filter. Wally world was out of OEM. Greased drive shaft. Greased JBA UCA and noticed some hairline cracks in upper ball joint boot. About 6 months new. I'll reach out to them and see what they say. I'll keep the men posted. Everything else looked pretty good. No noticable new leaks. If there is it is not very bad yet ...

 

I found a spring in my oil pan when I did my axle seals last time, I’m really hoping it was from the diff seal and not this one at the hub, I guess I’ll find out next weekend!

 

Today I half finished up my Viper remote start. I found a document on wiring up a relay for the door locks that I'm going to tackle in the next few days or so.

On another note, I replaced my 05 DC front turn signals. I added LED bulbs. Now I have hyperflashing. Is there a flasher relay unit that will work with LED bulbs or am I looking at installing resistors on all 4 bulbs?

 

Sorry for the confusion guys. I thought after I took out the axle that there is a dust cover or seal on the ends just before the splines that needs to be replaced. Maybe I’m wrong and was thinking of the oil seal that goes into the diff.
On a side note my truck didn’t have a pass axle nut hub cover and I doubt my driver sides does either but I won’t find that out till I have a cv axle rebuilt and ready as well as the needling bearing puller since it’s due for replacement

 

plenty of cheap modules that'll work, but i like the Tap turn unit because you get fancy strobe effects and such with it. (the hazard strobe has actually come in handy to get peoples attention about shit)

 

I found one that works with LED bulbs to eliminate hyperflashing but its listed for non DRL trucks. Mine has DRL. Think it might still work?
https://www.diodedynamics.com/led-flasher-for-2000-2006-toyota-tundra-non-dtrl.html

 

i THINK the drl runs through the headlights.. so the flasher shouldn't affect that

 

Sweet cuz I jumped the gun and ordered one for less than 10 bux.

 

Diode Dynamics has one for $60 for when the el cheapo bites the dust. I’ve read the reviews which are very good. Most start cheap and end up with the $60 one because you get what you pay for.

 

Got started on my sleeping platform.
Still have allot more stuff to do

 

The cheapo is fine. I just like the fancy stone effects. They have come in handy, because strobing turn signals get way more attention than just hazards
https://youtu.be/G-BkbDJU9LU

 

Contacted JBA. The torn boot on ball joint is a known issue(not to me until today). Sending me new ones. They have switched manufacturers to a new better quality boot and will send me the new new boots in February when they become available. Glad to see they acknowledged the problem and are fixing it. Now hope the install is not to intensive.

 

One thing I absolutely hate with the fire of a thousand burning suns are those stupid fu*&(*(&*ing brake light blinkers.

 

They bug me. But I do see the reason. It does help get distracted drivers attention.




It looks stupid and is annoying if you are paying attention

 

Ever been stuck behind one in stop and go a tiny bit and stop and go a tiny bit and repeat traffic?

 

Very rarely, but it does happen when I venture into one of the bigger towns.

 

Couple of the $60 reviews said the cheapo worked nicely but ended up glitching out. @Tundra2 had a cheapo and upgraded? Anyway, she don’t need no stinkin’ strobes flashers because she never breaks down.

 

Correct. I had the el cheapo for a little over a year. It worked great until I completly lost the passengers side turn signal...

The one I had was the adjustable speed one using the dial on top. I still have it, and always planned a post mortem on it. I just haven't gotten around to it.

I upgraded to the Diode Dynamics unit.

 

It’s weird, I used to get 5 flashes from a tap, now I only get 3. I know my son was effin around with stuff but the key has to be in and flashed in a strange sequence to get the flash number to change

 

Thats right. I had mine set to flash 6 times with the tap feature. When I was having those weird projector electrical issues I disconnected the battery. Doing that reset my saved settings back to the default which is four? I never bothered to change it back to 6.

The programming instructions are on their website.

 

Dude has blue led's outlining his front door windows.

I thought these Tap things were just silly indulgent toys, but looking at the video - I suddenly see value in them.
I've a tough to get out of driveway, so I always back into the driveway. If there' other cars around I use the Hazzards to indicate I'm about to do something unusual - like stop at the side of the road until they pass me, or drive backwards. Amazing how many stupid drivers there are who will pull up right behind me stopped with hazzards & just wait. Wave past - duh?, put on reverse lights & - huh? Or the idiots that fly over the hill as I'm backing across the road & try to squeeze behind the vehicle with flashers on, reverse lights on, moving backwards & they try to cut behind. Yeah - those strobes could be useful. Metal rear bumper too.

Of course by the logic above that "strobing signals get way more attention than just hazards", one could extrapolate that hyperflash is a good thing.

 

Installed a set of LEDs yesterday and drove the truck to work today. They do a good job of illuminating the road, and they don't seem to bother oncoming drivers..
I'll have to get a couple pictures and post.

 

I wrapped up my 2nd coat of POR-15 today. I like the results. I'll let it dry a few days then start trying to blast something into the cracks to penetrate the areas I couldn't paint.

It went from this:



To this:

 

Looks good, do you plan on putting a coat of grease over the por-15 or just let it be?

 

That's that cursed area where the frame overlaps so I know there is more rust between the panels I can't do anything about. Once this dries I'm going to try and pump the cracks with some sort of penetrant like PMH suggests. The best I can hope for is that some of it drains down. After than I'll lather the area in fluid film like I always do.

 

When it comes to FF or grease on a frame, our 04 Sequoia has never been touched other than me pressure washing it. It looks really good with only surface rust on the welds. Would you or @Professional Hand Model hit with a wire wheel first or just go right to FF/grease?

 

I haven't specifically inspected the overlap section yet @FirstGenVol

 

I think you saw the pictures of my frame stiffeners when I rebuilt my frame. I fabricated new stiffeners from .250 steel. They came out quite nice, I have to admit.. Check my build page if you haven't already.

My 2001 TRD Access Cab Rebuild/Repair/Modify Thread

 

I've always heard it's best to try and scrape off rust that you can. That's typically what I have done. I wouldn't leave it as bare metal though. If you do remove it down to bare metal I wouldn't leave it like that.

Maybe I'm not following but how would the frame stiffeners help with rust? Or are you just recommending for other reasons?

 

@FirstGenVol Just showing how I dealt with a similar, but worse problem. Thankfully, your frame area isn't nearly as bad as mine was.