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Suggestions on how easiest and best way to tackle this hitch

Discussion in '1st Gen Tundras (2000-2006)' started by Hi06silver, Dec 14, 2020.

  1. Dec 14, 2020 at 5:29 PM
    #1
    Hi06silver

    Hi06silver [OP] Fat. Thumbs.

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    Looking for input on best way to tackle this little bit of mainly surface rust on my receiver. There's so many nooks and crannies on this thing that I don't really want to try to wire brush it because it really doesn't take take off much with a drill and a wheel. I don't have any experience with ospho or any of that type. I'm sure it would work fine on the outside but does it build up enough to affect the hitch/ball going in? My thoughts were possibly hit it with a rust converter like OSPHO or something similar and then paint over it but not sure about the inner portion. Maybe just treat the inner with fluid film from time to time after it's painted?
     
  2. Dec 14, 2020 at 5:40 PM
    #2
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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  3. Dec 14, 2020 at 5:57 PM
    #3
    Hi06silver

    Hi06silver [OP] Fat. Thumbs.

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    Whoops! Knew I forgot something lmao

    PXL_20201215_011922764.jpg
    PXL_20201215_011937675.jpg
    PXL_20201215_011958294.jpg
    PXL_20201215_012021466.jpg

    receiver is basically just the same light surface rust but there's no way in hell anybody's getting in there
     
  4. Dec 14, 2020 at 6:01 PM
    #4
    Tundra2

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    Wire wheels. Drill, or ¼ hex driver

    Ospho.

    Mineral spirits.

    Paint.

    Grease rub.

    In my receiver I used wire wheels, and and extension for my ¼ hex driver to get inside the 2 inch square.

    If available sand blasting would be easier.
     
  5. Dec 14, 2020 at 6:04 PM
    #5
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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    Rub some Motor Oil on it and then slather some Grease. Be done with it.
     
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  6. Dec 14, 2020 at 6:05 PM
    #6
    Tundra2

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  7. Dec 14, 2020 at 8:44 PM
    #7
    Hi06silver

    Hi06silver [OP] Fat. Thumbs.

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    So treat it like the frame and say to hell with painting it is what I think I read . Didn't have to fit in some small center to read between the lines
     
  8. Dec 15, 2020 at 3:07 AM
    #8
    Festerw

    Festerw New Member

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  9. Dec 15, 2020 at 3:48 AM
    #9
    tvpierce

    tvpierce Formerly New Member

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    ^^^ This.
     
  10. Dec 15, 2020 at 3:57 AM
    #10
    Tundra2

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  11. Dec 15, 2020 at 3:58 AM
    #11
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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    Yep. Thats right. I treated it just like the frame. I loaded up the hitch/tongue with grease all up in there, too.
     
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  12. Dec 15, 2020 at 4:15 AM
    #12
    Rotaryphoneuser

    Rotaryphoneuser New Member

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    I just spray with fluid film and gods to go. Of that were mine.
     
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  13. Dec 15, 2020 at 5:24 AM
    #13
    tvpierce

    tvpierce Formerly New Member

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  14. Dec 15, 2020 at 5:39 AM
    #14
    Tundra2

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    You can't really see it in the video, but there was still a lot of pitting that I couldn't remove. Still lots of nooks, and crannies I couldn't quite get to with wire wheels. The ospho was the end all move during my war on rust.
     
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  15. Dec 15, 2020 at 5:49 AM
    #15
    JohnLakeman

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    Easiest and best way: Wire brush off as much corrosion off as possible, then paint with POR-15. Then, if desired, top coat the POR-15 with a POR compatible top coat resistant to UV.

    I couldn't handle all that grease and fluid film just waiting there to jump off onto my clothes.
     
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  16. Dec 15, 2020 at 5:51 AM
    #16
    FirstGenVol

    FirstGenVol Brake Czar

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    What's the active ingrediant in that one? I was jus reading the reviews for Ospho and a few people said it's cheaper to buy Klean-Strip instead. I like that the one you linked is non-toxic though. I have a few spots on my frame I'd like to hit.

    upload_2020-12-15_8-51-4.jpg
     
  17. Dec 15, 2020 at 7:06 AM
    #17
    Festerw

    Festerw New Member

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    No idea. It does work very well though and you can reuse it basically until it stops working. I wouldn't recommend it for a frame though, it really works best if it's something that can be submerged.

    They have a gel also but I've never used it so I can't vouch for how well it works.
    https://evapo-rust.com/evapo-rust-gel/
     
  18. Dec 15, 2020 at 7:37 AM
    #18
    FirstGenVol

    FirstGenVol Brake Czar

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    What would people recommend for the frame then? I have a few spots just in front of the rear tire that I'd like to do something about. It's an area to tight to really get a power tool in there with a wire brush. I've been digging out the chunks with a screwdriver and drowning it in fluid film.

    That area where the frame overlaps is a death zone. Some of the black stuff is grease I packed in there last year.

    1215201022.jpg

    1215201015d.jpg
     
  19. Dec 15, 2020 at 8:12 AM
    #19
    JohnLakeman

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    My recommend for a frame wouldn't change. In your case, I would first have the frame steam cleaned to remove all the grease and fluid film you've applied, apparently in vain. No paint coating will stick to an oily surface.

    Then chip, chisel, scrap, wire brush, or needle-gun all the loose scale and surface corrosion that can be removed. Paint directly over the remaining surface rust with POR-15. (POR=Paint Over Rust.) Top coat the POR-15 with POR's UV resistant top coating (available in "chassis black").

    POR-15 adheres directly to rust, and cures to a harder-than-powder-coat, impermeable coating. Most paints can be very slightly permeable to atmospheric moisture with only a single coat; not POR-15. They'll try to sell you acid cleaners, special clean-up solvent, and other un-neccessary accessories. I apply it with a cheap chip brush and toss the brush when I'm done. You're not usually looking for fine finish where you're rust-proofing.

    POR-25 is expensive. I usually opt for the six pack of half pint cans. Once you open a can, it's better to just toss the leftover because it doesn't age well, and the can is impossible to seal perfectly. Below is a good deal for a quart on ebay. Like I say, if you don't finish your project with one go, then the remainder will be useless when you return to it:

    https://www.ebay.com/i/313340054765...Hjpexa0dxJwrdvpj8HhJXoixCDrYg1wsaAl5bEALw_wcB

    https://www.amazon.com/POR-15-45006...uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl

    https://www.amazon.com/POR-15-45904...407622&keywords=por-15&qid=1608049076&sr=8-14
     
    Last edited: Dec 15, 2020
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  20. Dec 15, 2020 at 8:33 AM
    #20
    FirstGenVol

    FirstGenVol Brake Czar

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    Thanks for the reply. To be fair, the rust was like that when I bought it. I've just been trying to keep it from getting worse which it hasn't. This is literally the only spot on the frame that concerns me so I would just need a tiny amount of Por15 if I went that route.
     
  21. Dec 15, 2020 at 8:43 AM
    #21
    JohnLakeman

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    If the rust problem isn't getting any worse, then maybe your present strategy doesn't need to change. If it ain't broke...you'll save some labor and money. Rust can be stealthy, better keep a close eye on it.

    You can buy single half pints of POR-15 for about $20 I believe.
     
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  22. Dec 15, 2020 at 9:00 AM
    #22
    rock climber

    rock climber New Member

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    If you use the hitch much you'll end up scratching the paint off anyway so clean it up and grease it is what I'd do.
     
  23. Dec 15, 2020 at 9:26 AM
    #23
    JohnLakeman

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    It's true, the ball mount will remove all the paint on the interior of the receiver.

    I wouldn't even bother painting the inside of the receiver tube. Since the interior of the receiver will inevitably rust, I would just cover the receiver tube and ignore that little bit of rust. Plus, the cover will help keep the mud and water out of the inside of the receiver. :D

    https://www.amazon.com/GENUINE-TOYO...052731&sprefix=Toyota+receiver,aps,214&sr=8-1
     
  24. Dec 15, 2020 at 12:24 PM
    #24
    DIYDad

    DIYDad New Member

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    over on the woodworking forums, some of the rust hunters swear by citric acid they can pick up at brewery supply stores as a cheap alternative to the commercial rust removers like evaporust. It's food grade, so non toxic - at least until it is full of whatever you are derusting.

    I'd fill a washtub with citric acid and warm water, and let it soak.
     
  25. Dec 15, 2020 at 3:23 PM
    #25
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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    Spray the shit out of those holes and ALL the seams overlaps with PB Blaster Penetrator with a straw. Keep doing the sprays every couple days. Squirt motor oil all up in there after a few PB soaks. Follow up with a grease needle on a grease gun and squirt grease all up into every seam you can. Spray more oil and Penetrator after the grease doughs up. Oil, PB, Grease and repeat oil and PB.

    Same thing I’ve been saying for at least 2 years!

    FF doesn’t penetrate or work like oil/grease/penetrator. FF lays up on top where mineral oils soaks and stops the rust.

    Ospho and POR will never get in and behind the seams where the rust wants to start. I feel like I’m taking crazy pills!!!


     
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  26. Dec 15, 2020 at 3:33 PM
    #26
    FirstGenVol

    FirstGenVol Brake Czar

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    Fair enough. I may pick up a bottle of PB. I was just wanting to put something on those rust spots to neutralize it first. I was leery of trapping rust under the grease and making it get worse.

    FWIF, Fluid Film is a penetrant.

    upload_2020-12-15_18-33-27.jpg
     
  27. Dec 15, 2020 at 3:43 PM
    #27
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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    Do you spray FF on Rusty Bolts to loosen them? No you don’t. You use penetrant.

    FF doesn’t penetrate like PB, Oil, or Grease. FF lays up. Read it ‘doesn’t penetrate like’ in my earlier post. I never said it wasn’t a penetrant. It lays up like Snot like I’ve said is the reason I moved on from it. Works good on my lawnmower blade and deck keeping grass from sticking, though.
     
  28. Dec 15, 2020 at 4:43 PM
    #28
    Festerw

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    It will penetrate, not quicky but it will. Unless you heat it up a little then it'll go quicker.

    I'm not sure one is 100% better than the other but they'll both get the job done.
     
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  29. Jan 4, 2021 at 4:30 PM
    #29
    Hi06silver

    Hi06silver [OP] Fat. Thumbs.

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    Rust away worked a little. Wrapped in soaked towels and giant sheets of plastic wrap, first try. Not fully submerged but different parts were at times, second try. Sat in there for over a day both times so I assume that's where "depending on age of rust" comes in from the label. Also guessing that being as it's more earth friendly that it takes longer to work on older rust...idk. I probably wouldn't use it again.

    PXL_20210105_002122041.MP.jpg
    PXL_20210105_002045303.MP.jpg
     
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