Suggestions on how easiest and best way to tackle this hitch

Looking for input on best way to tackle this little bit of mainly surface rust on my receiver. There's so many nooks and crannies on this thing that I don't really want to try to wire brush it because it really doesn't take take off much with a drill and a wheel. I don't have any experience with ospho or any of that type. I'm sure it would work fine on the outside but does it build up enough to affect the hitch/ball going in? My thoughts were possibly hit it with a rust converter like OSPHO or something similar and then paint over it but not sure about the inner portion. Maybe just treat the inner with fluid film from time to time after it's painted?

 

Pics?

 

Whoops! Knew I forgot something lmao






receiver is basically just the same light surface rust but there's no way in hell anybody's getting in there

 

Wire wheels. Drill, or ¼ hex driver

Ospho.

Mineral spirits.

Paint.

Grease rub.

In my receiver I used wire wheels, and and extension for my ¼ hex driver to get inside the 2 inch square.

If available sand blasting would be easier.

 

Rub some Motor Oil on it and then slather some Grease. Be done with it.

 

$13 Mibro 971531 (6-Piece) 1 1/2" to 3" Wire Wheel Brush Set for Removing Rust, Scale, Paint, and Dirt

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000JS2WUE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_CMb2FbDGVPBNA

$9 Bestgle 12" Length Quick Release Screwdriver Drill Bit Holder Extension Bar 1/4" Hex Shank Quick Change Extension Rod Socket for Screws Nuts Drill Hand-held Driver

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08F9S77N7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_fNb2FbE6PKDFK

$20 Ospho 605 Metal Treatment, 32 Fl Oz (Pack of 1)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C02CDG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_CNb2FbN0DJV7Y

Your choice on paint, and grease.

 

So treat it like the frame and say to hell with painting it is what I think I read . Didn't have to fit in some small center to read between the lines

 

Knock off the loose scale, get a tub big enough to fit it, and buy a gallon of Evaporust. Let it soak for a day, rinse it, and hit it with paint.

$30 Evapo-Rust ER012 Heavy Duty – 128 oz., Rust Remover for Auto Parts, Hardware, Antiques | Rust Removers and Chemicals

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M0TLQ66

 

^^^ This.

 

Thanks @tvpierce

@Hi06silver heres a playlist of my lunchtable hyperlapses I posted. Not sure why the last video is added in there also.
https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLJr_TkfFkRLWVlSogngkE7NQGvNNcVs4_

 

Yep. Thats right. I treated it just like the frame. I loaded up the hitch/tongue with grease all up in there, too.

 

I just spray with fluid film and gods to go. Of that were mine.

 

Why'd you bother taking it down to bare metal if you were going to treat it with phosphoric acid?

 

You can't really see it in the video, but there was still a lot of pitting that I couldn't remove. Still lots of nooks, and crannies I couldn't quite get to with wire wheels. The ospho was the end all move during my war on rust.

 

Easiest and best way: Wire brush off as much corrosion off as possible, then paint with POR-15. Then, if desired, top coat the POR-15 with a POR compatible top coat resistant to UV.

I couldn't handle all that grease and fluid film just waiting there to jump off onto my clothes.

 

What's the active ingrediant in that one? I was jus reading the reviews for Ospho and a few people said it's cheaper to buy Klean-Strip instead. I like that the one you linked is non-toxic though. I have a few spots on my frame I'd like to hit.

 

No idea. It does work very well though and you can reuse it basically until it stops working. I wouldn't recommend it for a frame though, it really works best if it's something that can be submerged.

They have a gel also but I've never used it so I can't vouch for how well it works.
https://evapo-rust.com/evapo-rust-gel/

 

What would people recommend for the frame then? I have a few spots just in front of the rear tire that I'd like to do something about. It's an area to tight to really get a power tool in there with a wire brush. I've been digging out the chunks with a screwdriver and drowning it in fluid film.

That area where the frame overlaps is a death zone. Some of the black stuff is grease I packed in there last year.

 

My recommend for a frame wouldn't change. In your case, I would first have the frame steam cleaned to remove all the grease and fluid film you've applied, apparently in vain. No paint coating will stick to an oily surface.

Then chip, chisel, scrap, wire brush, or needle-gun all the loose scale and surface corrosion that can be removed. Paint directly over the remaining surface rust with POR-15. (POR=Paint Over Rust.) Top coat the POR-15 with POR's UV resistant top coating (available in "chassis black").

POR-15 adheres directly to rust, and cures to a harder-than-powder-coat, impermeable coating. Most paints can be very slightly permeable to atmospheric moisture with only a single coat; not POR-15. They'll try to sell you acid cleaners, special clean-up solvent, and other un-neccessary accessories. I apply it with a cheap chip brush and toss the brush when I'm done. You're not usually looking for fine finish where you're rust-proofing.

POR-25 is expensive. I usually opt for the six pack of half pint cans. Once you open a can, it's better to just toss the leftover because it doesn't age well, and the can is impossible to seal perfectly. Below is a good deal for a quart on ebay. Like I say, if you don't finish your project with one go, then the remainder will be useless when you return to it:

https://www.ebay.com/i/313340054765...Hjpexa0dxJwrdvpj8HhJXoixCDrYg1wsaAl5bEALw_wcB

$87 POR-15 Six Pack Rust Preventive Coating, Stop Rust and Corrosion Permanently, Anti-rust Protective Barrier, 4 Fluid Ounces, Gloss Black, Pack of 6

https://www.amazon.com/POR-15-45006...uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl

$96 POR-15 Top Coat Paint, Direct to Metal Paint, Long-term Sheen and Color Retention, 1 Quarts, Chassis Black

https://www.amazon.com/POR-15-45904...407622&keywords=por-15&qid=1608049076&sr=8-14

 

Thanks for the reply. To be fair, the rust was like that when I bought it. I've just been trying to keep it from getting worse which it hasn't. This is literally the only spot on the frame that concerns me so I would just need a tiny amount of Por15 if I went that route.

 

If the rust problem isn't getting any worse, then maybe your present strategy doesn't need to change. If it ain't broke...you'll save some labor and money. Rust can be stealthy, better keep a close eye on it.

You can buy single half pints of POR-15 for about $20 I believe.

 

If you use the hitch much you'll end up scratching the paint off anyway so clean it up and grease it is what I'd do.

 

It's true, the ball mount will remove all the paint on the interior of the receiver.

I wouldn't even bother painting the inside of the receiver tube. Since the interior of the receiver will inevitably rust, I would just cover the receiver tube and ignore that little bit of rust. Plus, the cover will help keep the mud and water out of the inside of the receiver.

$13 GENUINE TOYOTA - PT228-35960-HP - Modern Towing Hitch Receiver Tube Plug PT22835960HP

https://www.amazon.com/GENUINE-TOYO...052731&sprefix=Toyota+receiver,aps,214&sr=8-1

 

over on the woodworking forums, some of the rust hunters swear by citric acid they can pick up at brewery supply stores as a cheap alternative to the commercial rust removers like evaporust. It's food grade, so non toxic - at least until it is full of whatever you are derusting.

I'd fill a washtub with citric acid and warm water, and let it soak.

 

Spray the shit out of those holes and ALL the seams overlaps with PB Blaster Penetrator with a straw. Keep doing the sprays every couple days. Squirt motor oil all up in there after a few PB soaks. Follow up with a grease needle on a grease gun and squirt grease all up into every seam you can. Spray more oil and Penetrator after the grease doughs up. Oil, PB, Grease and repeat oil and PB.

Same thing I’ve been saying for at least 2 years!

FF doesn’t penetrate or work like oil/grease/penetrator. FF lays up on top where mineral oils soaks and stops the rust.

Ospho and POR will never get in and behind the seams where the rust wants to start. I feel like I’m taking crazy pills!!!

 

Fair enough. I may pick up a bottle of PB. I was just wanting to put something on those rust spots to neutralize it first. I was leery of trapping rust under the grease and making it get worse.

FWIF, Fluid Film is a penetrant.

 

Do you spray FF on Rusty Bolts to loosen them? No you don’t. You use penetrant.

FF doesn’t penetrate like PB, Oil, or Grease. FF lays up. Read it ‘doesn’t penetrate like’ in my earlier post. I never said it wasn’t a penetrant. It lays up like Snot like I’ve said is the reason I moved on from it. Works good on my lawnmower blade and deck keeping grass from sticking, though.

 

It will penetrate, not quicky but it will. Unless you heat it up a little then it'll go quicker.

I'm not sure one is 100% better than the other but they'll both get the job done.

 

Rust away worked a little. Wrapped in soaked towels and giant sheets of plastic wrap, first try. Not fully submerged but different parts were at times, second try. Sat in there for over a day both times so I assume that's where "depending on age of rust" comes in from the label. Also guessing that being as it's more earth friendly that it takes longer to work on older rust...idk. I probably wouldn't use it again.