Axle seal, CV joint, or what?

Not a fun thing to find when you’re in the middle of a move but a trip to Moab will do that. Did my daily morning walk around of the truck to see if anything was wrong and came out to this. Is this a seal that burst, the whole cv joint, or what? There’s oil sprayed everywhere on the passenger side. First time dealing with something like this, so I apologize if this is an easy answer.

 

Looks like the boot got a hole in it. May not be anything wrong with the cv joint yet...but if not replaced it will be destroyed. The boot keeps the grease on the joint and keeps water sand etc out. Boots are pretty cheap...but they are not easy to replace.

I say looks like ,but you should be able see,feel a hole in the boot if that is the case

 

Ah okay, that would make sense why there is oil everywhere if it has a hole. I’ll feel around it in the morning and see if I can find a hole. Thanks for the help!

 

Can you tell if the leak is gear oil, or grease? The inner boot will be sealed with grease like the outer, but there is a seal where the axle shaft enters the diff that can also fail and produce a mess like you have pictured.

 

It seems like gear oil to me just based off of when I changed the oil after regearing and doesn’t seem like grease. I’m going to clean everything off again tomorrow and check it all out to see if possibly that seal burst or if it’s a hole.

 

Let us know how you make out, and good luck.

 

These should help you out if it is just the Boot. I am currently waiting on the pair I just ordered to be delivered.



https://sdhqoffroad.com/collections...ts/sdhq-built-direct-replacement-cv-boot-kits

 

From the pic, it looks like black boot grease to me. Also, gear oil has its own distinct smell. I’ve only had a few axle oil seal leaks in other different vehicles (all rear axles). And with each one, I first discovered the leak only from the smell.

I’ve never done a new CV boot replacement, but I’ve heard it’s a messy job. Of the few CV boot leaks I’ve had, I found it easier to just replace the whole CV axle with a remanufacured one, preferably with lifetime warranty (O’Reilly’s used to offer them). I’d keep the original as a spare for a quick trail repair.

Hardest two things for me when replacing a CV were 1) reseating it into the front diff without messing up the axle oil seal, and; 2) tapping in to the proper depth and alignment a new axle oil seal when that happened. I’ve never had to that on a Tundra, but on a 1st gen Tacoma I found an empty Chef Boyardee can to be the perfect tool to gently tap one in like that. I’m guessing another can slightly wider might work just as well for the Tundra.

 

Yeah I made the mistake of thinking it was diff oil at first, but its definitely grease after looking at it. Good to know though. I'd like to swap it all myself but I need to do some research to get that done

 

Sometimes it's better to just change out the CV axle than to change the boots. The cost is a little higher but the job is easier and most replacement axles have a lifetime warranty that covers CV boots.

 

This. About to do a buddy's 4R. Search around for using the sledge hammer/slide hammer method of popping the CV out of the diff. It's held in by a c-clip & can sometimes act difficult.

 

Check out http://www.cvjreman.com/

They rebuild OE cv axles. They have options for a high angle inner boot for lifted trucks as well. Toyota cv axles are far better than anything you will buy at local parts stores.

Looks like a failed cv boot

 

There are flat milled spots on each side of the CV axle where it goes into the diff. You can put a pry bar in this milled flat spot and tap the pry bar with a hammer. CV should pop out. If not the first try, rotate the CV axle and repeat.

 

Do you know if they have axles for a 2017? I'm seeing 2007-2013 on there website

 

They're the same.

 

If you order one make sure you get one with the toyota outer boot. The neoprene outer boots they use dry rot and fail after a couple of years. Just order with OE toyota outer boot.

 

You might want to replace the axle seal and do the ECGS bushing. It replaces the needle bearing on the driver's side of the diff. The needle bearing fails prematurely when lift is installed. You end up with play in the driver's side CV axle, and sounds like a bad wheel bearing. It will go away in 4wd.

Link for bushing https://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-1...amshell-bushingeliminates-needle-bearing.html

 

Boot replacement really isn't bad. Buy a OEM kit. They disassemble with a snap ring plier brass drift and band tool or end snips to crimp the new bands. At least they were easy on the Tacoma. Have not done a Tundra yet.

 

After buying the correct tool for doing the bands, removing the c-clips holding the axle stub on, messing with all that nasty grease & whatever else, may as well just buy the whole drive axle assembled.

 

Maybe I'm just quick. I can have an axle out, disassembled, new boot on and clamped, reassembled and installed in under an hour and a half. With a floor jack.

 

I would still recommend doing the ECGS bushing while you have the axle out.

I would also consider how many miles have been put on that axle since it dumped the grease. I've put a lot of miles on a toyota CV axle with a failed boot, but knew I was going to swap it out.

 

Ha! Yes, definitely quick. I’d say super quick. I can get one out and back in in that time but also doing the boot, no.

 

If you do axle OEM only!! I have popped a couple of aftermarket on the 4r.... OE is WAY better.

 

100% go OEM. Rebuild them. Do not buy aftermarket. GARBAGE.

 

Yeah I'm talking to the guys at cvjreman.com right now and going to get an axle sent out. The bushing you posted is only for driver side correct? I'm doing the passenger side.

 

Yes, the ECGS bushing is for the left (driver’s) side only.

 

Yup, my bad, didn't look close enough.