What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

I am finally going to start installing my Viper remote start this weekend. I just finished adding cellular capability to my aftermarket remote start on my Ford. I have found a couple of videos showing which wires to install where for the simple remote start capability.

https://youtu.be/TCt5UJPK65E?list=PLmNC-2auuJ0StBwWzrdJvmzh8JAlZAmYa

https://youtu.be/xrhIGvTxNoQ?list=PLmNC-2auuJ0StBwWzrdJvmzh8JAlZAmYa


One thing I realized the other day, my truck doesn't appear to have RAP (retained accessory power) or at least it doesn't keep my Kenwood running when I remove the key but before opening the door. My 03 Tahoe had it and so does my Ford but honestly I can't recall if it has ever worked on the Tundra even with the single DIN headunits I've had in the past. Maybe I just didn't pay attention but I noticed the other day it didn't. Hmmm.

 

Looking forward to your install!

This is something on my "want" list, but not necessarily the "need" list.

 

Checked fluids. All are bueno, and in good level.

Transmission fluid when wiped off of dipstick, and looked at on fingers is a "dull" red. Still red, and still looks much better than the old fluid I drained out.

PS is dark. Need to resume turkey baster operation.

Oil is right at top dot on dipstick.

Added 19 gallons of gas in the tank.

Anti-freeze levels are unchanged in over flow reservoir.

 

I like those, nice choice.....

 

Why do you dislike fluid film? Do u also dislike woolwax?

 

Dropped it off at Toyota for the airbag recall.

Curious if they are gonna have any recommendations for me.

 

That's on my list to do. Thankfully I found a Service Manager that only gives me recommendations that are needed.

 

To my surprise they mentioned nothing. Unfortunately they did an inspection and deflated my tires to factory specs, now I need to correct them. I don't really remember what they were set to but it was over 40. The 26psi felt like clouds.

 

Attempting a swap to steering with audio controls. Anyone familiar with these airbags that can tell me what the differences might be?

Also want to be sure I'm not installing a recall item. I was under the impression it was the igniter that was the issue.

Replacement with audio controls on left, original on right.



Replacement right, original left. Considerable differences seen. Left is also larger height wise. It's also the same one from before the recall was performed.

 

Lets set the record straight. I used Fluid Film starting a about 2 years ago. I thought it was fine, although I didn’t like the snot look so I’d buff it on to a shine. Got to thinking how our frames are designed and in particular the welds and overlaps (seen and hidden). Thought I’d spray a little PB Blaster (projectile spray up the box and using a straw in the little crevices) in those areas to see how it would perform. Seemed to suck it up.

I remembered a convo with a mechanic about the Old 70’s Jeep Wagoneers frames being sprayed/dipped in Grease so I decided to rub a MolyB layer using a sponge all over the frame. It went on shiny/greasey and has dried to a Matte Doughy Type Finish.

I don’t recall ever saying ‘I don’t like FF’. I do recall saying that I think the Greasings are better long term as it doesn’t wash off and that the PB Blaster gets into areas FF can’t. I’m experimenting with 0w-20 Oil Baths on the frame which on the couple spots I’ve tried looks like its a better full bodied solution for saturating the welds/laps vs. PB Blast. The oil supplements the grease layer which isn’t going anywhere.

Never used Woolwax so I have no comment, but have heard lots of people use it with success.

Back to the Molyb Grease: 2 tubs (not tubes) cost about $8. A can of PB is $5. Quart of oil is about $4. All together I’ll have less than $20 for a lifetime coating. I think what I am doing is pretty durable based on history, provides great penetration to all welds/folds areas, and is a much better option for me.

 

I second the grease, and PB blast.

I have not tried any other combinations yet. Autobones, and O'baileys were out of fluid film when I did my local shopping back in july-ish.

Been thinking about warming up some grease with a heat gun, and letting it flow into the box frame like water. I'll have to do some small scale testing, and find a boroscope that works with my S10+.

 

MolyB doesn’t like extremely high temps. I’d cut it with some oil.

 

Got to watch someone else drive my truck today. She was looking schweet coming at me at about 20 mph. Truck was quiet as she pulled up. Jumped in the pass side seat (rare being on that side) and enjoyed the short drive home. She was smoov feeling being on the other side.

 

I'm sure Mrs. PHM was easy on the throttle.












Unless it was Mistress PHM...

 

I didn't use Moly-B. I used ole generic-o grease. In the tub-o

This is why small scale testing is bueno. See which mixture of grease/oil, or just grease will flow when warm, and solidfy when at normal summer temps.

 

Still sounds like Bacon.

 

Being from "the south" we have a plethora of that. Wonder how it would really do?

 

This is on my radar as well. I dont really have much to add, other than to say my pre-recall igniter has the two prongs like your original on the left. I'll probably be getting the recall done, then swapping the cover for adding audio controls. I'll add some pics of the new bag assembly when I get it done, likely into the new year.

 

Easy fix. You can replace the Bell Cranks without even removing the Brake Shoes. $30 at Rock Auto

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4198851&cc=1426935&jsn=422

 

PHM is a rebuilder. Take it apart, figure out what the engineer was thinking, properly service it, reassemble & properly maintain going forward.
IMO, @Professional Hand Model has two issues - curiosity & time.
makes for a damn nice truck though.

 

Assuming you can get them out unbroken. Mine were just a corroded lump of shit. The pivots attached to the backing plate are just aluminum and the rest of the parts are steel.

 

With all this talk of frames, and exhaust...

I went outside to snap some pictures, and compare units.

Here is the old pics of the transmission crossmember.



Here are the new pics. Blue arrows/lines are bare metal under grease.


The inside is still gnarly....

Drivers side leaf, frame overlap area now...


Here is my old, rusty catalytic converter...



That looks like a fun job....

$435 MagnaFlow Catalytic Converter 23759: HM Grade, Direct-Fit (EPA Compliant)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XQM2YS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_iJn0Fb7120CWS

With the holidays upon us... I may have to pickle the Tundra for this month. I've put 16,000-ish miles on her since I installed my lift, and my front tires are showing it. Pretty badly. At the time, I didn't have anything else to drive since pop's other truck was in the shop. Just got it back last month.

I've made up my mind on the suspension Maxx sway links. What is the general consensus on Tie rod ends? During the front end refresh I'll plan on new ones of those also.

Passengers side valve cover leak looks like its gotten pretty bad too.



Its dripping with oil... everything, the tranny, the sway bar, the steering rack, the pass side of the engine. Its all dripping...

Feels like everything is stacking up faster than I can dish out solutions.

 

have you rotated your tires or gotten an alignment since you installed the lift?

 

Went to 3 different alignment shops, all 3 said that they couldn't bust the alignment cams loose.

So no alignment, and two rotations.

Hence my front end refresh with SPC ucas

 

ah, I see. did you adjust the toe at all? that's the biggest wear factor. Camber isn't the greatest, but not as big a deal as toe.

 

All three shops wouldn't touch my truck with a 10 foot barge pole after they couldn't loosen the adjustment cams. They sent me on my way... out of sight, out of mind I guess.

Probably a good thing because if they started tearing into it they would charge me my left lung...

 

This is a tough call. I know the truck has a lot of sentimental value because your family has had it so long. But eventually you'll have to decide how to proceed. That's a call only you can make. I just hate to see you dump so much money into it.

 

On the topic of breaks mushy breaks bell cranks, bleeding breaks I just went through this last month.

So it all started with the 6inch rotted out break end that attaches to the caliper. ordered a new one off of the big gurl and bleed out the 2 front breaks and done. So I thought .... ( going back last year my ebreak was shit so I just tightened the adjuster underneath the driver's front door and it held better. Little did I know the bell crank was not set properly and over the winter it seized up in the locked position. So when I ebreak in and out only the passenger side releases.... got a new bell crank installed it thought I was done pedal went to the floor.


Now I had to set my drums properly. IF YOU DO NOT HAVE ALL THE COMPONENTS OF THE EBREAK CABLE AND BELL CRANK AND CENTER PIVOT FREE OF MOVEMENT YOU CAN NOT SET THE DRUMS PROPERLY!!

If you have new shoes and drums then the videos on youtube are great but most of us do not. The trick with just being able to push your drums on and off only work if everything is in perfect round or new so the shoes are even ect..

The only way to set used drums in my opinion is with the drum fully on and adjusting from the back. With the truck lifted and in neutral so you can feel the drums separately.

In my case when I tried to ajust it with the pull on and off method it was tight going on but very lose with fully in. So the pedal would still go to the floor. In theory there is no way I could take my drums off right now because of how they are worn. But my pedal is nice and firm and no I have no drag in the drums. They are set perfectly.

I think alot of ppls breaks are all fked up becuase of not setting the rear drums properly or something is seized and the drums can not self center properly. This only applies to stock breaks . Cant put input on the big break upgrade.

 

Yes, it sure does. I'll save the back story. 90% of you already know.

At this point, it might be wise to simply give her a break for a few months while I drive the Chevy. Give me time to figure out exactly how to proceed.

Here is a thought. I pickle this truck for a while, and save for my next truck. My lil ole V6 can be a project truck for me a few years from now. Its staying here, and in the family.