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Rear bearing growl HELP!!!

Discussion in '2nd Gen Tundras (2007-2013)' started by Rontech71, Dec 5, 2020.

  1. Dec 5, 2020 at 1:46 PM
    #1
    Rontech71

    Rontech71 [OP] New Member

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    I need some serious help here. I have a 2008 SR5 with 180,000 miles. Back in May of this year, I started hearing a growling noise coming from the rear. With the mileage, I assumed wheel bearing. I ordered the complete Toyota kit and replaced both rear wheel bearings at the same time. Much to my surprise, the noise was still there. I ended up ordering a new driveshaft carrier bearing and changing that. The noise was still there. I ordered a bearing kit for my rear differential. I changed all of those bearings. The noise is still there. The only time the noise goes away is when I am going around a right hand curve, just like a bad wheel bearing on the right rear would act. I ended up driving with the noise until today when I changed the right rear wheel bearing a second time. You guessed it. The noise is still there. I see nothing wrong with the tires. Rotating doesn't change anything. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
     
  2. Dec 6, 2020 at 8:00 AM
    #2
    blackdemon_tt

    blackdemon_tt Battery Slayer

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    Any chance it's the front ones?? Viktor G on YouTube has a vid on this, super educational IMO, I got growling too, but it's more prominent on the front driver side..
     
  3. Dec 6, 2020 at 8:23 AM
    #3
    Rotaryphoneuser

    Rotaryphoneuser New Member

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    Might be a front bearing. Maybe good to change the rear diff fluid as well if you haven't.
     
  4. Dec 7, 2020 at 3:06 AM
    #4
    Rontech71

    Rontech71 [OP] New Member

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    The rear differential fluid was changed when I did the re-build. I forgot to mention I have changed the front right wheel bearing as well. I wish I had a set of chassis ears to diagnose this properly. It won't make any noise at all on jack stands. It has to have a load. It's louder on a left hand curve and goes away on a right hand curve. Thank you all for your input!
     
  5. Dec 7, 2020 at 9:53 AM
    #5
    blackdemon_tt

    blackdemon_tt Battery Slayer

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    Left hand curve would Indictate a left wheel problem as the left wheel has to turn quicker as a tighter radius than the right. Or am I wrong??
     
  6. Dec 7, 2020 at 12:05 PM
    #6
    Trident

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    Sure it's not the fabled needle bearing on the drivers side of the front diff?
     
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  7. Dec 7, 2020 at 12:41 PM
    #7
    timsp8

    timsp8 Former Tundra owner for 13 years

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    Does it go away in 4wd?
     
  8. Dec 7, 2020 at 2:07 PM
    #8
    Rontech71

    Rontech71 [OP] New Member

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    I believe the left tire would actually turn slower on a left hand curve. The distance travelled would be greater on the right wheel. Good thought though.
    I have never heard of a needle bearing problem with these trucks. This is news to me.
    4 wheel drive makes no difference at all. We have already had our first snowfall of the year, and I drove 25 miles in 4x4.
     
  9. Dec 7, 2020 at 3:06 PM
    #9
    jalam321

    jalam321 New Member

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    Since your said the sound changes when you turn...It could be the rotors rubbing on the backing plates. Did your new bearing kit come with new backing plates also? If it did...I'm willing to bet that is your issue. It seems there is very tight tolerance between the back of rotor and the backing plates. Pull your rotors off and look very closely at the backing plates and you will see where it may be rubbing. I had same issue after I got new rear bearings and it had new backing plates. The backing plates are very very close to the back of the rotors so they may rub slightly in turns, eventually it will grind itself down and go away. Some people also get a grinding/rubbing noise when they install new rear rotors because it rubs on the backing plates.
     
  10. Dec 7, 2020 at 3:32 PM
    #10
    ColoradoTJ

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    Sounds like you are throwing parts at a problem.

    Are you sure the gears are set up properly? Original gears?
     
  11. Dec 8, 2020 at 3:00 AM
    #11
    Rontech71

    Rontech71 [OP] New Member

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    It isn't the rotors. That is a unique sound I have experienced in the past. That you would hear at all times regardless of load.
     
  12. Dec 8, 2020 at 3:01 AM
    #12
    Rontech71

    Rontech71 [OP] New Member

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  13. Dec 8, 2020 at 3:03 AM
    #13
    Rontech71

    Rontech71 [OP] New Member

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    It isn't the rotors. I have experienced that sound many times over the years. That is a grinding/scraping noise.
     
  14. Dec 8, 2020 at 3:07 AM
    #14
    Rontech71

    Rontech71 [OP] New Member

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  15. Dec 8, 2020 at 3:16 AM
    #15
    Rontech71

    Rontech71 [OP] New Member

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    Yes they are original gears. When I had the carrier assembly out to change bearings, the gears looked like new. I used OEM bearings and put back the original shim thickness. I had .006 backlash which is within specs of .001"-.006".
    How would a gear problem go away on a right hand curve?
    And YES! I am throwing parts at this. It sounds like a wheel bearing and acts like a wheel bearing. Process of elimination. At least I'm not paying stealership prices.
     
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  16. Dec 8, 2020 at 5:07 AM
    #16
    ColoradoTJ

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    Have you done the ECGS bushing?

    https://eastcoastgearsupply.com/b-79232-1207131-ecgs.html

    A needle bushing is in the drivers side front differential that supports the cv axle shaft in the housing. This is a common problem with tacoma/T4R/Tundra/Sequoia.

    You may have to change out the half shaft if it has groves worn in it.

    This is a hard find to narrow down. Due to the wise members here, I was able to narrow mine down rather quickly. The dealership first replaced the bearing hub. It was fine. I took a thermal imaging camera to the original one and it was cooler than the passenger side after driving 15 miles down the highway. Then they recommended to do the ECGS bushing. They recommended it, wouldn’t warranty it, and wanted 600.00+ to install it. I also had some issues inside the differential (not proven, but guessed) and since my 2012 CM was still under warranty (65k miles), I had them swap out the complete axle housing assembly. No more growling. That little parts swap cost them 3500.00.

    Not sure if you are a Bob and Tom fan...but this made me think of the segment of the show.
     
  17. Dec 8, 2020 at 5:23 AM
    #17
    ColoradoTJ

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    This one is a classic as well.




    Hopefully the bushing fixes your growling. Once it gets really bad it’s hard to really pinpoint the location.
     
  18. Dec 8, 2020 at 7:07 AM
    #18
    huntertn

    huntertn New Member

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    Try putting it in 4wd and see if the noise goes away.
     
  19. Dec 9, 2020 at 2:58 AM
    #19
    Rontech71

    Rontech71 [OP] New Member

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  20. Dec 9, 2020 at 2:58 AM
    #20
    Rontech71

    Rontech71 [OP] New Member

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    No it makes no difference
     
  21. Dec 9, 2020 at 2:59 AM
    #21
    Rontech71

    Rontech71 [OP] New Member

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  22. Dec 9, 2020 at 2:59 AM
    #22
    Rontech71

    Rontech71 [OP] New Member

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    It makes no difference
     
  23. Dec 9, 2020 at 3:10 AM
    #23
    Rontech71

    Rontech71 [OP] New Member

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  24. Dec 9, 2020 at 3:12 AM
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    Rontech71

    Rontech71 [OP] New Member

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    My wife and I laughed our butts off watching that!
    What is the easiest way to diagnose bad needle bearings?
     
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  25. Dec 9, 2020 at 4:18 AM
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    ColoradoTJ

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    Pull the shaft out and I bet it becomes very obvious. With this mileage and the year of your truck, pretty common. Yours has probably worn to the point the 4wd doesn’t quiet the “growl” anymore.


    Glad you and the wife have a good sense of humor. I really enjoyed that segment of the show.
     
  26. Dec 9, 2020 at 7:27 AM
    #26
    huntertn

    huntertn New Member

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    Like ColoradoTJ said, if the sound goes away when you put it in 4WD that is a good indicator you need the ECGS bushing. That is what mine would do. I should have said that I my first post. I actually saw where it had been asked and answered before. o_O
     
  27. Dec 20, 2020 at 9:17 AM
    #27
    smiffy6four

    smiffy6four New Member

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    Rebuilt rear diff, added Auburn limited slip Replaced transfer case bearings ECGS left front Diff bushing
    Just grab the inner CV joint, and try to wobble it up and down. Mine was bad enough to see/feel it wobble. The ECGS bushing and tool were worth every penny.
     
  28. Dec 20, 2020 at 9:19 AM
    #28
    smiffy6four

    smiffy6four New Member

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    Rebuilt rear diff, added Auburn limited slip Replaced transfer case bearings ECGS left front Diff bushing
    If the noise only occurs on turns, then the spider gears are shot. Time for a new unit.
     
  29. Jan 1, 2021 at 5:33 AM
    #29
    Rontech71

    Rontech71 [OP] New Member

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    Update... I had to take it to the dealership for another issue. They put chassis ears on it and diagnosed it as a front left wheel bearing. That was the only one I hadn't changed. I had that one sitting in the garage. To my surprise, it actually fixed my problem! I would have sworn that noise was coming from the rear! I had several people ride with me and agreed. Oh well! It's nice and quiet now.
    Thank you for everyone's advice!
     
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  30. Apr 27, 2021 at 7:16 PM
    #30
    Kywildman

    Kywildman New Member

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    Drivetrain noises will make you mad! Glad you resolved it
     

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