Will it work and how long before I break even?

I live in the NW PNW. It's cooling down and I park outside. Maybe I'm getting older, but scraping frost off my windshield is getting to be a bigger and bigger PITA. Where I live I have to scrape relatively often, but it's not crazy cold, like the east side of the state. Anyways, I'm looking into solutions that will prevent frosting and not having to warm up my Tundra before leaving for work. I was thinking of putting one of

$100 SEEKR by Caframo, Stor-Dry, Warm Air Circulator for Boats and RVs, Low Power Draw, 120V AC, 70 Watts, Corrosion-Proof Metal

these in the cab and running it's power cord through the firewall, out through the grill and plug it in at night, like a diesel.

Let me know if I'm wrong with my thoughts below.
I don't think it needs to heat up the interior above freezing. All it needs to do is keep the interior, and in turn the glass, above the ambient outside temp such that condensation won't occur. It'll probably keep interior temps above freezing most of the time, but during real cold stretches, it may not provide enough heat to get the interior above 32. Either way, I don't believe the windows will frost.

If I'm correct and it will effectively prevent frost, what is my break even point, negating the cost of electricity? Let's say I'd have to warm the Tundra up for 8min every morning that it had frosted without the heater. What's the fuel burn rate, at idle, for these 4.7's? How long will it take for the little heater to pay for itself with fuel savings?

 

I might be wrong, but according to the specs, it draws 70 Watts, which really isn't much at all. You might find this little unit won't produce enough heat. It should dry the air, but I'm not so sure about heating.

 

It's doesn't dry the air, it warms it's surrounding. Thanks how it's intended to work. It's works by the same principal as GoldenRods in gun safes. They don't decrease humidity, they prevent condensation. To call them a dehumidifier is a misnomer.

 

I would try this first.

https://www.mom4real.com/2-ingredient-homemade-car-de-icer-spray-removes-ice-in-seconds/

 

Scroll down to see what Toyota in Canada uses. It’s a defa termini ii heater. I saw them on eBay for around $100 before the COVID apocalypse. Not sure of it’s power draw, just another idea.

https://www.toyota.ca/toyota/en/owners/accessories

 

Easiest solution would be a Frostguard windshield cover. I think you'd be wasting your time with a tiny heater


Motorup America Winshield Snow Cover and Sunshade Protector:

$13 Motorup America Winshield Snow Cover and Sunshade Protector Fits Select Vehicles Car Truck Van SUV

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GZ4HQ7Y/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_.ZaZFbDEVFNJ9

 

I just use remote start. The isopropyl alchol decier thing works too if you forget to turn your heat and fan on when you park though.

 

That cover above, from Cody, would work well except sometimes the side windows frost up.

I like keeping things simple and cheap while optimally solving an issue. Also, I like to reuse when possible (saves money and taxes).

I recco a drop light with either a 100w or 150w incandescent bulb (Heavy Service Life Bulb) to be left in the vehicle. The bulbs heat is enough to ward off the frost. You can find one at any Thrift Store (please support they are wrongfully being put out of biz in our Nation due to wooflu false unmeasured mandates).

Cost about $25-40 with a long extension cord built in. Cheaper at Thrift or garage sale if people aren’t scared to still have those anymore.

 

I park facing the morning sun, and if at all possible - I don't leave the house until the frost & ice are melted using solar power.

 

Most put an LED bulb in their drop cord light, only to find out they don't put off enough heat.

 

Exactly. They Key is a filament bulb with Heavy Service.

 

My mom has hounded out the actual non profit thrift stores in town; there are quite a few that are “for profit”
One she always goes to is the humane society’s thrift store.

it really doesn’t get that cold where I’m at, but I know even if it’s not a garage, covered parking helps from letting the moisture fall on the window in the first place then feeezing and turning to frost....

 

Unfortunately, not an option.

 

You’d be surprised that most ‘non-profits’ make WAY MORE $$$ than ‘for profits’. Example: NFL was a ‘non-profit’ organization up until about 5 years ago. They made huge $$$. They still have their ‘non-profit’ side which is a cover for their ‘for profit’ $$$.

No problem with making $$$, but just be aware of the scam. I’ve banned the NFL for certain reasons. Recco everyone do the same.

 

Any kind of small lamp would work.

 

This is cheap and easy.

 

So, what's the fuel burn rate at idle?

 

Phone call: "Mornin', Boss! I won't be coming in today 'cuz it ain't sunny..Hello??"

 

Zero miles per gallon.

 

Self employed...

https://youtu.be/8z8SpgmF0sA

 

Now do gallons per hour....

 

I see a few issues. We are talking about savings? Like maybe a few pennies? And you are Baller? I'm just saying.......


I got problems and maybe I'm thinking to deeply

 

Toyota FSM says not to idle more than 20 minutes at a time. Bad for cats.

 

I guess we are looking at it from different perspectives. I’d not buy that overpriced heater in your situation but thats just me. What I’d do is run my 25’ long drop light out to the truck with the bulbs I suggested which I currently have. Zero cost.

I’d only do that if I was in your position with consistent frost which I am not. When I do have frost (Rare), I scrape or heat the engine for 10-15 minutes ahead of time.

Without doing all the formulas, I’d guess you’d be burning about an 1/8th gallon of gas per 8minutes x $price/gallon = per day cost.

Cheaper to throw a lamp inside and send it. You could even experiment with one tonight to see if it works.

 

Not LED!

 

I'm not that dum. I think...

 

Permafrost suits the Tundra. They go together like peas and carrots.

But I thaw things out with a combo of remote start and a block heater when it drops to -10C and colder.

 

Sounds like you may be familiar with an E6-B...