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Who puts a alternator there

Discussion in '2nd Gen Tundras (2007-2013)' started by Matt, Mar 22, 2015.

  1. Mar 22, 2015 at 1:09 PM
    #1
    Matt

    Matt [OP] New Member

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    Ok in need of some help here I hate working on this truck my hands are to big and the space is to small!!! I have to tear out this alternator on a 07 5.7 tundra apparently you have to remove the power steering pump?? But there's a bolt behind the pulley you can't get out I have a puller but it don't work for this truck I guess just some help here would be nice thank you
     
  2. Mar 24, 2015 at 8:48 AM
    #2
    kanaga

    kanaga New Member

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    I'm in the same situation with my 08 sequoia. According to a post on another forum you have remove the wheel and access it from the side.

    After spending a couple of hours trying to figure out how to get access to the alternator, i called the dealership and asked how much it would cost for them to do it. They said it was a 6 hour job and would cost almost $600 for the labor.
     
  3. Mar 25, 2015 at 7:17 PM
    #3
    Rkcruza

    Rkcruza New Member

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    De Badged / Decaled, Firestone Ride Rite Air Bags w/ Daystar Cups, 17" Rims, Big Brake kit w/ slotted & drilled rotors, plus lots of work related stuff.
    Who puts an alternator there? Same folks who put a starter under the intake manifold! Had a Ford Probe, said you had to pull the motor to change the alternator....ended up disconnecting tie rods and such and pulling it out through the bottom. Most who design them don't have to work on them!
     
    FirstGenTundra likes this.
  4. Mar 27, 2015 at 7:00 PM
    #4
    kanaga

    kanaga New Member

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    I went out and bought a Haynes repair manual. It says to:
    1 - remove drive belt
    2 - remove the air filter inlet duct
    3 - on models with 4.6 L or 5.7 L engines, remove air filter housing.
    4 - on Sequoias with 5.7 L engines, drain the cooling system remove radiator hoses, cooling fan and shroud.
    5 - remove right front wheel and the rubber splash seal attached to the inner fender
    6 - remove power steering pump
    7 - remove alternator.
     
    Last edited: Mar 27, 2015
  5. Jan 28, 2016 at 8:34 AM
    #5
    ngarner

    ngarner New Member

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    I am having the same issue with my alternator. What was your solution? Thanks
     
  6. Jan 28, 2016 at 5:42 PM
    #6
    LOTSOFTOYS

    LOTSOFTOYS Toyota Whisperer

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    They suck. Enjoy
     
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  7. Jan 29, 2016 at 11:04 AM
    #7
    Nor7

    Nor7 Chilton Manual Guy

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    Which engine do you have? Here's the removal instructions from Chilton for the 1GR-FE engine (attached.).

    Hopefully this helps, let me know if you need the other instructions listed in that manual.
     

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    Last edited: Jan 29, 2016
  8. Jan 29, 2016 at 11:23 AM
    #8
    Nor7

    Nor7 Chilton Manual Guy

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    Hah, I just realized this thread was started a long time ago so I assume you got it figured out. Well I'm sure someone else will find this helpful.
     
  9. Mar 31, 2016 at 7:06 PM
    #9
    410shooter

    410shooter New Member

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    I know this is a year old, but I'll reply for posterity's sake. (Just did the job today on my 2000 4.7L V8.) You'll be working underneath the truck, so you may or may not need to jack it up before starting. I was able to get by without a jack, but I'm still young and skinny.

    1. Disconnect battery.

    2. If you have one, remove the plastic splash shield underneath the engine (That protects the engine from mud, debris, and the like.)

    3. Remove the serpentine belt. (One of the pulleys is called a tensioner and has a nut in the middle that you turn counterclockwise to loosen the tension. The belt will slip right off. After that, slowly release the tensioner and it will move back into place. Under the hood somewhere is a diagram that shows which pulley is the tensioner.)

    4. Disconnect the two electrical connections on the alternator. (One just needs to be pinched and pulled out, the other one needs you to pull off the cover and take a nut off.

    5. Remove the nut and bolt holding the alternator to the engine.

    6. Your power steering pump is held onto the engine with two bolts, as well as a nut holding it onto a mount. Remove the two bolts and loosen the nut. YOU DO NOT NEED TO DISCONNECT ANY OF THE LINES OR REMOVE THE PUMP AT ALL.

    7. While you (A second person is useful for this part) rotate the power steering pump out of the way, slide the alternator off the mount.

    8. With the power steering pump held out of the way, slide the new alternator on.

    9. Put everything back together. (It's helpful to have a second pair of hands when putting the serpentine belt back on. Once again, there will be a diagram somewhere in the engine compartment showing how the belt goes around each pulley. Remember you'll have to loosen the tensioner again in order to fit the belt back on.)

    The hardest part for me was removing the two bolts from the power steering pump because the pulley on the pump was in the way. I was able to spin the pulley into a position where I could fit a socket with an extension through one of the holes in the pulley.

    On a side note, I had to replace mine because of a bad voltage regulator. (My battery light was on and my voltage meter was reading way too high.) Although the alternator replacement solved the voltage meter problem, my battery light stayed on. This is because while I drove my truck with a bad voltage regulator, that boiled most of the water in my battery. So if you notice the battery light still on, just make sure your battery has enough water in it after the alternator replacement. Some batteries have caps that can be unscrewed and you can fill the compartments relatively easily, but most batteries will need you to replace the battery entirely. My battery was still under warranty, so no problem there. Just be sure that if you have to refill the water level, use DISTILLED water, not regular water. One of my friends mentioned that sometimes if the battery doesn't have any of those "caps" you can pry the top off of the battery in order to fill it with water, but I don't have any experience with that.

    Sorry for the long post, but I had to spend all day figuring this out by myself, and guessed that somebody might appreciate knowing everything right from the start.
     
    Wobbly42, theraven, T-Rex266 and 4 others like this.
  10. Apr 1, 2016 at 7:35 AM
    #10
    csuviper

    csuviper Moderator Staff Member

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    Right on man. That is one hell of a nice first post on the forum. Welcome! Stay a while.
     
    Sefferston likes this.
  11. Apr 1, 2016 at 12:03 PM
    #11
    swede78

    swede78 Not so new member

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    Did mine on the 4.7 took about 2hrs the first time,the post above is the way to do it,not sure if this works for the 5.7 but it should.
     
  12. Feb 4, 2017 at 1:39 PM
    #12
    EarleyBird

    EarleyBird New Member

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    Trying to replace alternator on my '11 4.6L Tundra. I can't get the vane pump off. Pulled one of the long bolts that attaches pump to engine and only able to loosen the other, as it is blocked by the pulley. Pump is loose now and I can move it, but not enough to get it out of the way so I can pull alternator.
     

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